I'm an Automotive Engineering student and I'm doing a minor in Entrepreneurship. For this minor I have to do some 'market research' on a market I'd like to tap into.
I have decided to get into designing and producing general stuff that would make a day at the track a lot more bearable.
I'd greatly appreciate any experiences you guys would like to share with me!
In the past you could buy a product called the CG-Lock, it was a seatbelt lock that let you cinched down your 3-point stock belt to hold you in on track/autocross etc. Not sure why it disappeared and I'm sure there are all sorts of things you could run into trying to design a universal part that goes onto one of the most critical safety features of a car but if you could figure it out I'm sure there is still a market for it.
The other one I'd like to see on the market is a competitor to the Simpson Hybrid S since they don't seem to be working on a more entry level version of it. That model is the only Head and Neck restraint that is designed, tested and approved to work with stock 3-point belt systems. The problem with it is the cost, there is only one model (there are various sizes) and uses carbon fiber in it's construction like a high end HANS so it comes in around $1200 US (at least at Summit right now). I think something using some more affordable materials like reinforced plastic like you see on entry level HANS devices coming it around $600 would be a great product for the track day/HPDE crowd.
I need a trunk monkey crew to do all the normal bs maintenance between rounds that I have to do currently...
Some form of universal one man brake bleeder that works from the caliper end. I have a motive pressure bleeder that only works on a few master cylinders, and a mytivac that barely works on anything. A mytivac type tool that works would be PERFECT
Dusterbd13-michael said:Some form of universal one man brake bleeder that works from the caliper end. I have a motive pressure bleeder that only works on a few master cylinders, and a mytivac that barely works on anything. A mytivac type tool that works would be PERFECT
Omg yes this!!! So much so! And make sure it doesn't leak.
The return of a well placed, comfortable, functional dead pedal.
Javelin said:Dusterbd13-michael said:Some form of universal one man brake bleeder that works from the caliper end. I have a motive pressure bleeder that only works on a few master cylinders, and a mytivac that barely works on anything. A mytivac type tool that works would be PERFECT
Omg yes this!!! So much so! And make sure it doesn't leak.
Not sure just how universal this is, but it worked for me:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=10387
CG Locks chew up seatbelts. Not sure if this is why they are off the market or not.
Dusterbd13-michael said:Some form of universal one man brake bleeder that works from the caliper end. I have a motive pressure bleeder that only works on a few master cylinders, and a mytivac that barely works on anything. A mytivac type tool that works would be PERFECT
Gravity bleeding has worked on every brake system I've worked on. Just crack the bleeder and let it drip a while. Start on the farthest corner from the master and work your way closer. I've had a couple clutches where this didn't work, but never a brake system.
In reply to Lof8 - Andy :
Doesn't work on fixed calipers.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:CG Locks chew up seatbelts. Not sure if this is why they are off the market or not.
The seatbelt clips used for child seats were performing the same function before CG-Lock and still do after, they're just not as convenient to engage/adjust. They also accelerate wear on the seatbelts to some degree however.
I can get both lap and torso of my factory 3-point seat belt tight enough that I can hardly breath for free... I never did figure out how paying for a CG lock could be a significant improvement on that.
The six hour tow to the nearest road race track.
Javelin said:In reply to Lof8 - Andy :
Doesn't work on fixed calipers.
I'm confused. Every Volvo built prior to the 700 series had fixed calipers, and I gravity bled a metric E36 M3 ton of them. As a matter of fact, the front outer upper piston requires it.
Driven5 said:I can get both lap and torso of my factory 3-point seat belt tight enough that I can hardly breath for free... I never did figure out how paying for a CG lock could be a significant improvement on that.
I have never got any 3 point to cinch down very well, not including C4 Corvettes and their brilliant system. Especially Mazda's asinine latch on RX-7s that holds the belt an inch away from my body because it is far too long.
Streetwiseguy said:Javelin said:In reply to Lof8 - Andy :
Doesn't work on fixed calipers.
I'm confused. Every Volvo built prior to the 700 series had fixed calipers, and I gravity bled a metric E36 M3 ton of them. As a matter of fact, the front outer upper piston requires it.
I don't get it either, have never had an issue with Brembo, Wilwood, or Alcon fixed calipers as well as Mercedes rear calipers. I figure that I am missing something...
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
You can't even get the belt tight on you with the retractor locked while the belt is just a little 'too short' for your seating position? Interesting. I don't recall autox'ing any car that didn't work on, and even then I don't see how a CG Lock could functionally improve on the result.
The other problem is that the CG Lock only tightens the belt on the lap. It does absolutely nothing for the torso, which IMHO is the bigger challenge for performance driving support IMHO... So it's actually significantly less effective than if you can figure out how to get the totally free option to work for you.
GameboyRMH said:Javelin said:Dusterbd13-michael said:Some form of universal one man brake bleeder that works from the caliper end. I have a motive pressure bleeder that only works on a few master cylinders, and a mytivac that barely works on anything. A mytivac type tool that works would be PERFECT
Omg yes this!!! So much so! And make sure it doesn't leak.
Not sure just how universal this is, but it worked for me:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=10387
How do you keep air from being pulled in past the bleeder threads?
Teflon tape?
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