Advice needed: Dropping center link for oil pan clearance

Hey guys, I'll keep this short and sweet. I'm in the middle of LS swapping my 70 Dodge Charger.

It uses a rear steer setup, and the shallow oil pan I ordered just isn't high enough. I need another 1/2-3/4 inch of clearance. 

I know the easiest thing to do is lift the motor and be done, but I'm chasing handling and want the lowest CG and the most rearward mounted engine position I can possibly get. (I know thats crazy, but I figured you guys would understand.)

So my question is, what's the easiest and safest way to fabricate or modify this one to gain 3/4 inch of clearance? Ive seen old school Mopar drag racers weld a second piece of solid rod underneath, then cut away the original center section, but welding together steering components isn't my first choice. I'm going to drive the balls off of this car and want it safe and able to handle any abuse I throw at it.

The holes on the end are two inches apart.  I appreciate any help.

Is there a front sump option? Can/will you raise the engine an inch?

In reply to Appleseed :

The front sump pans that are available don't clear the front sway bar and would require notching the K member and backdating to a 69 sway bar setup. There are some aftermarket mid sumps that come frustratingly close to fitting but no dice. It was either this pan, or I made my own, so I went with this one.

There is room to raise the engine, and I will if I absolutely have to. It would definitely be the easiest solution. 

I'm just really hoping there is a way to make a new center link Im unaware of.

I'm not sure what a 70 B-body's center link specks are, but I googled "dropped center link." Found these:

Summit Site

I'd google Dropped center link and see if more comes up. You could always cut and sleeve the link if it's too long/short.

Digging around the internet. A mopar site suggested flipping the link end for end. The small dip in the stock link goes up from the factory. Flipping it gets you a bit more clearance. Is that possible on yours?

If it is forged and not cast, you could heat it up and drop it similiar to an axle.

In reply to Appleseed :

​​​​​​well I did get some good news. I reassembled everything and it turns out this bar clears by my original measurements after all.

I have no idea how I got that wrong. I must have had something put together wrong. But all is good now. That's a relief. I can move on to the other stuff now.

I appreciate your help though man. 

No worries .  Its nice when things sort themselves out.

Keep us posted on he rest of the build!

In reply to Gearheadotaku (Forum Supporter) :

Will do man. I keep meaning to make a build thread. 

Im only getting to work on it during the weekends, so it's not coming as fast as I want, but I'll get there. 

Mounts are all made and the aluminum 5.3/4l60 are finally set in permanent. I won't miss the 440/727 combo.

I'm down to just wiring/plumbing/driveshaft stuff now.

One reason this place rules: no one gave you crap for sticking a Chevy in a Dodge. Because we know engines can't read the name stamped on the valve covers.

Appleseed said:

One reason this place rules: no one gave you crap for sticking a Chevy in a Dodge. Because we know engines can't read the name stamped on the valve covers.

100% facts! GRM is my people.

It is hilarious watching the purists reactions on other social media. I can't imagine what reactions it'll get once done.

Not that I'm doing this to troll or anything. This engine was the best fit for what I'm doing with the car, so LS it is.

I was going to suggest a clearance notch on the pan if possible.  But you have it handled.  Good luck with you project.