rotella t in an r1?

I've got an 03 r1 engine in my dwarf car. Last time out last season, I toasted the clutch. I am hoping to have it ready for this weekend autoxing and lapping. I was considering running rotella for the weekend to clean out any residue from the clutch and then switch to $$$motul$$$ and a new filter after. I'd rather not spend $80 for oil and filter for one weekend of use. Does this plan make sense?

I use it in my WeeStrom, Burgman 650, Miata, 6.5 TD Chevy and 1.9 VW TDI. However, none of those rev anywhere near what your engine sees.

In my experience Rotella T6 can make a gearbox very notchy. I add a quart of Suzuki conventional 20w50 to smooth things. Works great in my VFR. Can't see any reason to pay for Motul engine oil.

Rotella is JASO MA rated, at least the T6 Synthetic is, so you should be good to go.

I switched to blue jug roteela after epa made the zinc reduction before that it was castrol gtx 20/50 in my dwarfs (gsxr 1000). now i use rotella i every thing as its cheap and i like gallon jugs. I use it in my cars, and bikes. Ducati st4, suz C50, multipule xr100's (road race and flat track) and more.

Awesome. Thanks

I would agree. The Rotella T is very good oil.

I use Castrol Hypuron in my bikes, but it's probably a little heavy for your application.

my old harley get BradPenn oil as it still has full zinc but its a real PIA to find and i've not been able to get a distributorship from them so i mail order it in.

44

Dino 15/40 rotella has far superior shear Resistance and I would run it before the T6 in a shared sump motorcycle enegine

Not scientific, but I find the T6 synthetic to last 500-1000 miles longer than the 15/40 dino in my WRR. I change oil when the shifting gets crunchy, and the synthetic has always and consistently lasted longer... ymmv.