T250 VM

I am having trouble setting the idle on my 71 Suzuki T250. It has the OEM Mikuni VM24s. On all of my other VMs, I can adjust with the screw which raises or lowers the throttle slide. These carbs have no such adjustment. The manual I have does not address setting the idle.

It's done with cable tention. As a twin it will have a spliter in the cable. theres several ways to do it but start off minimizing the main cable slack via the adjuster up at the throttle. Next you'll need to sync the two carbspull the air filter tubes or pods filters and um....finger the carb slides with you other hand twist the throttle feel at the top of the slides do they open at same time? if not adjust the cable slack at the top of each carb. Once you get that right. Start the bike and warm it up. Shut it off, pull one plug wire refire bike now adjust the working cly carb cable adjuster so it will just idle for 15sec before it dies. conect the non working plug and pull the other and adjust once thats done hook both plugs up and idle should be corect if not use main adjuster at throttle.

The carb slides were synched by a shop. They were not able to keep the engine running as they could not set the timing. Turns out that the points the were given were a bit too long (but were the correct part numbers). Anyway, they adjusted the slides so they pull evenly (and they do). I installed the correct points, set the timing and started her up. She will only start if the throttle is cracked slightly. The slides are all the way at the bottom of the bores. I just need to set them a little higher.

Then I need to get the flashers to flash. I have swapped out the flasher relay and the still won't flash.

I think it might be a float problem.

Also, it will no start at all with the cone filters in place

OK, I adjusted the slides a bit higher and it will idle with the choke on, but not when it is off and the engine is warm Running with the filters on or off make no difference to idle. I sprayed carb cleaner around all possible leak points and the idle does not change. I have the side air bleed screw almost all the way in. I did take the carbs apart, cleaned them thoroughly and blew them out with compressed air.

How long did this bike sit? Have you replaced the crank seals? they dry up and get hard suck air and cause allsorts of trouble.

Bike was running last summer. I have not replaced the crank seals. I was afraid it might be that.

Bike does not smoke much. Very light for a two-stroke.

let see you just did points so pull the cover look for oil haze on the inside of the cover. If you find some hose the whole area down with brake cleaner and wash the inside of the cover replace and ride then re-inspect to confirm. You can also presurize the crank area and spray soapy water around the seals but that is static test not allway best.

No oil haze at all. Inside of the cover is squeaky-clean. I think it has something to do with carbs or carb mounting. If the carbs are torqued all the way, the slides stick. If you back off the nuts, the slides work normally. The slides have been smoothed, etc. Also having trouble with turn signals. No matter which relay I use (two Suzuki's and an aftermarket) they will not flash. The two OEMs will allow the signals to light, but no flash. The aftermarket clicks rapidly, but no light.

In reply to 44Dwarf: It runs! I stripped down the left carb and cleaned again and it started on the first kick. It responds to the throttle too. The left carb is bogging a bit. I will fix it tomorrow.

Dam you seem to be fighting those carbs every time you ride the thing....I'd be adding filters and cleaning the tank or say F'it and Micro squirt it. Pick up a "stunted" gsxr tank off fle-bay and cut the fuel pump ring out and weld in to your tank.

Not even riding it yet. I am at the end of a restoration project. I finally got it to idle. The problem seems to be with the right carb not. When I move the left carb slide by itself, it revs fine (bearing in mind it is one cylinder doing the work). It would not do that before. When I do that with the right carb, only, it dies. The left did that until I cleaned it (for a second time). Time number two is coming for the right carb. The tank is ok. I have clear fuel filters and the fuel is flowing freely and it is clear. My guess is they something is jammed up in the carburetor on the right side. Once that is done and I get the turn signals straightened out, she will be ready for state inspection!

Have you soaked over night in pine-sol? Go to yard sale pick up a 1.5 quart pot place carb body inside add 3/4 to 1 qt of pine-sol and warm on camp stove OUTSIDE as it will stink and just warm no need to boil you don't want to warp the body. Warm cleans alot faster so just a couple of hours will do.

I did soak carbs in carb cleaning fluid. However, it was not until I reopened the left carb did I find a small amount of residue afterward. I will try the pine-sol idea with the right. I never heard of using that, but it kind of makes sense. More environmentally friendly than carb cleaner too.

I never thought it would work but have been supriced every time how well it worked. Family dollar store normaly has 2 qt packs for cheap.