Winterizing carbs, what works?

It seems the thing that’ll make a bike inoperable more predictably and reliably than anything else is a good length of time spent in storage.

It’s the time of year where it’s getting to be too cold to ride my old air cooled Honda twin, so I’m going to put it into storage to keep it out of the nasty rain and snow all winter. I’m curious what has worked for you all to keep the carburetors from gumming up.

I figure a bit of fuel stabilizer is in order, as well as running the carbs dry.

What I thought about was somehow getting some Marvel Mystery Oil or some other such snake-derived product into that last bit of fuel that is in the carburetor bowls before running them dry. Does that sound like a plan?

What comes to mind is the R/C car guys that do “after run oil” to lubricate and protect their engines between use. I know my application is different, but it might work just as well.

Any thoughts or experience with other effective methods?

Just get some fuel stabilizer (IIRC the Yamaha/Yamalube one is rather good), fire up the engine and let it work it's way through the fuel system.

Run the last tank with STARTRON in the mix get it warm and use marine FOGING OIL down the intake untill it stalls out. Done. roll in to shed or corner and put battery tender on the bat and forget about it.

Thanks!

Any idea where to pick up either of those products in a small-ish sized town?

I bet the boat sales place might have the fogging oil, huh?

Is STARTRON an auto-parts-store-might-have-it type of product?

Thanks, Clem

Boxhead Tim and 44 Dwarf are right. That's what's done on boat engine's that sit out the winter up here, too.

Personally, I double the normal dose of Stabil and run it through the Triumph, then fog the clinders. Yes, it's a car, but carbs don't like dry gaskets.Been there, done that, will never do that again.

I put studded tires on and run on the ice.

In reply to pilotbraden: Mobile buzz saw. So do you race against other such mobile buzz saws. I've seen some races on TV; fortunately not the aftermath of an accident during one..

triumph5 wrote: Boxhead Tim and 44 Dwarf are right. That's what's done on boat engine's that sit out the winter up here, too. Personally, I double the normal dose of Stabil and run it through the Triumph, then fog the clinders. Yes, it's a car, but carbs don't like dry gaskets.Been there, done that, will never do that again.

Are you saying don't run the carbs dry? Or are you just staying the fogging oil helps preserve the gaskets? or maybe both...

So...I could use the fogging oil and then drain the carbs with the screw (I'd forgotten about that until now).

Thanks,
Clem

Exactly. Put the addative into the fuel, start engine, warm up, go for a short ride. While the engine is ilding, spray fogging fluid into the intake until the engine stops. Don't drain the carbs.

I've done that on multiple carb setup auto and marine engines. Both large and small. Invariably, I was always called by the owner in the spring if I drained the carbs. Carb leakage was a problem from the gaskets drying out.

Hmmm...

I hear that, but then I think about it a bit and there's only like...two gaskets on my carbs.

I guess I just figured the gas would evaporate out either way...so I might as well not give it a chance to deposit any gunk and drain it myself.

interesting thoughts...

Clem

Startron is availible in some autoparts stores now and almost every boat and bike shop. Stabil has changed / improved it's formula for alky but its still weak, startron works.

As for running dry ive do it i've also not done it, i've pulled the gass line and filled with marvel too. Realy don't matter much just remember to drain it all before attempting to start in the spring.

44

I have yet to have a dry carburetor gum up. So drain it dry and store it for as long as you like.

Motorcycle carburetors conveniently come with a little drain screw on the bottom of their bowls just for that purpose.

I'm in west Michigan, I just go for a ride a couple times a month to keep everything going

In reply to triumph5:

I just ride around the frozen lakes. I try to make it to some races but as a spectator. The traction from the studded tires is absolutely amazing and cofidence inspiring. I achieve lean angles that make me feel like Valentino Rossi.

In reply to triumph5:

I just ride around the frozen lakes. I try to make it to some races but as a spectator. The traction from the studded tires is absolutely amazing and cofidence inspiring. I achieve lean angles that make me feel like Valentino Rossi.

Actually I would drain the carbs (which reminds me, got to drain the carbs on one of my bikes...) as a precaution. Generally the carbs shouldn't gum up within a few months, but why take the risk?

Thanks for all the info and discussion folks!

NEXT winter, I'm going to see about buying a swimming pool full of Marvel Mystery/Snake Oil and just ride the bikes straight into it.

For this winter, I'll just follow advice from here...

Clem

minimac wrote:

Grtechguy wrote: I'm in west Michigan, I just go for a ride a couple times a month to keep everything going

What he said. And don't be a wuss. You won't believe how strong that air cooled twin will run when it's chilly out. I ride year round, except when the roads are icy/sloppy. The snow on the side of the roads is there to make a soft landing, should things go wrong

Sure...I'll get right on that.

Fall onto frozen ground (not likely there will be any snow when I need it) and get run over by the car behind me. Sounds GREAT!

Or...I could just do what I like and that's ride because I LIKE to ride when it's not cold or raining.

ClemSparks wrote:

triumph5 wrote: Boxhead Tim and 44 Dwarf are right. That's what's done on boat engine's that sit out the winter up here, too. Personally, I double the normal dose of Stabil and run it through the Triumph, then fog the clinders. Yes, it's a car, but carbs don't like dry gaskets.Been there, done that, will never do that again.

Are you saying don't run the carbs dry? Or are you just staying the fogging oil helps preserve the gaskets? or maybe both... So...I could use the fogging oil and then drain the carbs with the screw (I'd forgotten about that until now). Thanks, Clem

My dad swears on the screw for the bottom of the carb to empty out the bowl. I run Sta-Bull in my dirt bike. Use starting fluid to get it running again. Dad's bike will start on second kick.

I fill my bikes up with fresh premium from a busy local station, ride them around the block, then put them in storage. Up on the stands or center stand with a block under the front forks to keep the tires off the ground, pull the batteries and put them inside near the water heater in the utility room.

Good to go from November to March. Usually a few stumbles around the block at first, then they smooth out and are good to go. Go for a good long ride to get them warm once I do an oil change/tire pressure check/brake fluid change/chain oil and call it an event. Never did me wrong for 5 months. For longer, like if I was leaving the country for a year, I would add stabilizer. EFI is awesome!

I have had issues with two things. 1. Ethanol fuel eating old fuel lines. Not a major issue on my current bike because it is new enough and the station I go to advertises "no ethanol in the premium". 2. Drained carbs will dry out the needle seats or the floats will stick. Unless it was a LONG time, longer than the length that Sta-Bil or similar is effective for, I would not drain the bowls or fuel system.
3. Some bikes would lose prime in the carbs and the choke wouldnt work right. More of an issue with bikes that don't have flapper chokes but instead have the little jet chokes. You need to either put your hand over the carbs while cranking to get enough vacuum OR shoot a snort of ether or gas into the carbs for the first start in the spring. After that they come back to life.