I am driving down the road and my power steering goes out, lights on the dash . . . Must have a bad serpentine belt.
Upon further review, the belt was good, but the tension pulley fell off the engine block. When I removed the tensioner I found the main mounting bolt was half in the pulley bearing and half in the engine block (about 1/8" recessed into the block).
So a simple "Easy-Out" and buy a new bolt? The bolt stud is 12" down and MAYBE 4" of clearance. Take the motor out?
can you get MIG torch to it? if so, weld a blob to the recessed end of the bolt, get it a little proud of the surface, then weld a nut over that blob. now your bolt has a head on it, and the heat from the welding will have probably loosened up any crud on the threads. but it's unlikely that there's any crud on the threads, as Honda generally does a nice job with fastener platings and coatings. that's an unusual failure.
I just snapped one of these recently (on a j32) because I didn't realize it was left hand thread. I don't know if that's the bolt you're talking about but definitely check to make sure the direction you should be loosening.
iansane said:I just snapped one of these recently (on a j32) because I didn't realize it was left hand thread. I don't know if that's the bolt you're talking about but definitely check to make sure the direction you should be loosening.
I was just going to say this, there's a reverse thread bolt on the tensioner.
I don't remember the LH thread but it's been several years since I replaced the tensioner on our 2010 Ody. With RF tire off and fender liner pulled out, you might be able to get the MIG torch in there from the wheelwell.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:I don't remember the LH thread but it's been several years since I replaced the tensioner on our 2010 Ody. With RF tire off and fender liner pulled out, you might be able to get the MIG torch in there from the wheelwell.
Great call on removing the fender liner. You can also remove the motor mount on that side and can support the oil pan with a jack (and a block of wood). That will help the motor drop an additional inch or two if that gives you more room to work with. I'm pretty sure the bolt needs to be in the tensioner to fit on our Odyssey and Pilot, so there's not a lot of wiggle room in there.
Stud REMOVED!! I managed to use this 
$14 right angle 1/4" hex bit tool, 12" hex extender and my battery drill to drill a tiny hole into the stud. Then, enlarge the hole and extract the stud with zero clearance. Success.
PokerJoe10 said:
today i learned...
dj06482 (Forum Supporter) said:AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:I don't remember the LH thread but it's been several years since I replaced the tensioner on our 2010 Ody. With RF tire off and fender liner pulled out, you might be able to get the MIG torch in there from the wheelwell.
Great call on removing the fender liner. You can also remove the motor mount on that side and can support the oil pan with a jack (and a block of wood). That will help the motor drop an additional inch or two if that gives you more room to work with. I'm pretty sure the bolt needs to be in the tensioner to fit on our Odyssey and Pilot, so there's not a lot of wiggle room in there.
i removed fender liner to get to lower bolt in alternator, so it was fresh in my mind.
Unrelenting! So, Honda has my bolt, but it comes as a kit for only $337 +tax (to get the bolt I need, the bearings and all are fine.) I can go to Honda on-line and it is only $222, for a bolt. On Ebay they sell the kit for $40, but what kind of bolt is in the kit? I really do not want to do this again. Does anybody know where to get this bolt or maybe the exact size?
find out the thread diameter and pitch, then google those values plus "left hand thread"
this link right here will get you to the Left Hand Hex Head Metric Bolt section of the McMaster-Carr catalog
I finally found the bolt and it is a perfect fit. The replacement bolt is actually a tad stronger than the $337 OEM bolt!
I have a few extra if I can help a Honda brother, or a mechanic.
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