petey said:next step is a 500 cfm 2 barrel holley....
You are probably aware, but two-barrel carbs are measured at a higher pressure drop than four-barrels, and that 500 cfm is only equivalent to about 350 cfm in four-barrel units. Two 500 cfm two-barrels would provide about as much airflow as a 700 cfm four-barrel.
Just going to try it to eliminate the secondary issue.cant find a small enough double pumper and im leaning towards the efi route anyways lol
And thats enough hijacking
Back to the OPs stuff which ive now read a few times.top shelf work hes doing
petey said:Loving the project man
Doing something similar myself
That looks like it will be fun - please post when you have a build thread.
I initially tried using a blow through carb as well. It incorporated the same "open vacuum secondaries under boost" trick. But unfortunately it had been "prepared for boost" by someone who knew Bridgeports better than Holleys. I think the accelerator pump was way off, amplifying the carb "lag" behavior. If you floored it, the engine would bog for about 2 seconds, then you'd get a massive fireball out the exhaust and the car would take off.
Well, back to the current state of the project - getting to work on the fan shroud. First, I'm tracing the fan locations with a Sharpie.
Cut with a combination of jigsaw and aircraft snips...
It also needs one corner notched for a cooling fan.
Test fitting the fans...
It doesn't fully cover the radiator. I may add some holes in the not fully covered areas as well.
Going to need a lot of work to make a finished product.
DarkMonohue said:petey said:next step is a 500 cfm 2 barrel holley....
You are probably aware, but two-barrel carbs are measured at a higher pressure drop than four-barrels, and that 500 cfm is only equivalent to about 350 cfm in four-barrel units. Two 500 cfm two-barrels would provide about as much airflow as a 700 cfm four-barrel.
A 500cfm 2 barrel is the primaries of a 750cfm. Or the secondaries, as 750s have "square" throttle plate and venturi sizing.
There's nothing like a bead roller for forming a fan shroud.
I don't have one. How about a pliers and some hammers?
I don't expect much flow to go around the fans, so I took a hole saw and added a few more vents.
I added a bit of dimpling around the hole - it's the wrong direction for air flow, I know, but it's more to deal with sharp edge hazards.
The shroud is a bit floppy, so I hammered in a few ribs.
The end result.
Checking fitment on the car without fans.
Next step will be to figure out how I'll secure the fans to the shroud and get this installed. (Probably zip ties - they should work fine now that they are applying the load to the shroud and not the radiator tubes.)
In reply to MadScientistMatt :
You might cut some flaps out of sheet rubber and rivet them to the shroud, attached only at the top so that they hang freely over the holes. When road speed and airflow through the radiator is high, the flaps will open to allow more air through the radiator. If the fan comes on at low speeds, the flaps will seal against the shround so that the fan pulls air through the radiator and not through the holes.
In reply to DarkMonohue :
I like that Idea.
slantsix said:I like that Idea.
It's a good one, but it's not mine. I saw it first on an early Ford Fiesta in a wrecking yard about 25 years ago!
That's also how Volvo made their electric fan shrouds for 7xx/9xxs. I think it's a great idea.
That's an interesting idea. I may do a smoke test to see if the fans actually draw any air in through the holes to see if it makes a difference.
The last fan shroud just wouldn't quite clear the lower fan no matter what I did. Good thing cookie sheets are cheap.
This time, I'm going to try starting with cardboard on the radiator and see if I can get a better fix on where to put the fans, and apply what I've learned with the first effort.
OK, the second shroud has been made to fit.
Tried to have a bar in between the two fans, but it kept folding up and closing up the cutouts, so I removed it. Now I have both fans in place and everything clears - barely!
Thus demonstrating that anything is a bolt on if you put enough holes in it!
That's a tighter fit than my TR6. I didn't make a shroud for it, but will see what happens over the summer. 80F is considered hot where I am in Colorado.
Downpipe and transmission hard lines attached. It's getting close!
The last item that has me pondering "How exactly am I going to do this?" is visible in the lower right hand corner - the transmission cooler. I think I'll be able to secure it to the crosspiece that holds up the intercooler. Beyond that, it's mostly reconnecting a few intake parts, making sure the belt is right with the idler pulley, reconnecting the wiring harness, and reinstalling the distributor.
And hoping the fuel in the tank still resembles gasoline this time...
You're getting there Matt, little bits here and there add up to alot.
Whaddya think about master cylinder shielding? Some recycled cat converter floor shielding from the junk yard could work well.
I have thought about wrapping the downpipe with exhaust wrap. The master cylinder isn't all that close to the downpipe; the picture makes it look a bit closer than it really is.
In reply to MadScientistMatt :
awesome, I know Lou Had to Shield his MC on his turbo Sl6 '68 Dart. He also may abuse the car slightly more than you do..
Greg
Compared to the fan installation, the transmission cooler was easy since I already had a bar for holding up the intercooler. Two holes, two adel clamps, done.
Almost ready to start - although I'm planning on starting it with the valve cover removed so I can check the oiling and valvetrain, and will use the valve positions to set and install the distributor. At this point, I mostly need to finish the electrical connections, fill it with fluids, and make sure there's actually gasoline, not merely a gasoline-like odor, in the fuel tank.
You'll notice some loose wires on top the intake manifold. I didn't trust the old junkyard injector connectors, and bought a set of new ones.
I'm sure it's in this thread somewhere; what's the turbo from/basic size information, and how much power are you planning on making with this setup? It looks fairly serious.
I have to say I both love and hate that fan shroud haha, I think because it got so wrinkled? Do it again with a hole saw and a jigsaw lol.
This is a Garret GT4082. The previous build put about 120 hp to the wheels. I'd be overjoyed if I could tie my 4.8 LS truck build at 240 hp when this is complete, but it's probably going to end up being 2-3 times the actual factory horsepower. The engine was rated at 145 at the crank, which was using inflated "gross" numbers and would probably be about 105-110 hp in modern net terms at the crank.
I should have connected the neutral safety switch before putting the downpipe back in. No pictures of that because I couldn't see what I was doing at all!
Today, it's time to stop just putting parts together and go through a pre-start checklist. I removed the valve cover to have a look at the valvetrain and oiling while starting.
Next step -find the keys, connect the battery, and power up the MegaSquirt. So far, so good. So I turned on the fuel pump in output test mode to confirm fuel pressure. After a bit of cavitation, the fuel pressure started climbing up...
...only to have fuel start leaking out around the #6 injector. Cue the sad trombone music.
But at least it's to the point where I'm dealing with somewhat straightforward issues. And I was relieved to find there was still some sort of liquid that smells like gasoline in the tank. That wasn't the case last time I had it sitting for a long time, although that was even longer.
Had to have the Dart towed home - I have changed jobs, and previously had it at work. I was able to fix the injector fuel leak as well as a coolant leak (just had a hose clamp turn out to not be clamping entirely hose). So I ran a fuel pump test again. The good news is it's holding pressure. The bad news...
It's not enough pressure. Time to replace that fuel pressure regulator...
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