1996 F250 Supercab, Blue Bell

Having just bought this beast, there are a lot of small things that need done. For a recap of the purchase, see this thread: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/say-hello-to-blue-bell-powerstroke-content/108925/page1/#post1960692

1996 F250 XLT, SuperCab, looooong bed, 2wd, 7.3L Diesel Powerstroke. E40D trans, 10.25" open 3.55 rear diff. Purchased at 231,000 miles for $3500:

We bought this truck because we intend to buy a large sailboat later in 2016 or early in 2017. Looking in the 25 foot range so we can live aboard comfortably for a few vacation weeks a year, but can also keep it on the trailer and cruise local lakes on the weekends. These boats (Catalina 25 for example) can get up to 8,000lbs once on a trailer and fully stocked and fueled. We intend to get to the Georgia coast and the Gulf, both of which are 3-4 hours away. The goal is to have something that is capable and comfortable for eating road miles in front of said boat. My intention is to keep up with needed repairs and projects here. It's also my first diesel, so I'm sure I'll need input from you guys on everything.

Mechanically the truck seems very solid. Cosmetically it's rough. And dirty. So, the first task of ownership was to spend an entire freaking day cleaning the interior. That's not usually my first step, but I really felt like I needed a shower every time I drove it. So...

Before:

In this one the passenger seat has not been cleaned, but the driver and center have:

I didn't get a before shot of the driver's seat. It was brown in patches. The center seat folds down into a console, and the corner where the driver's arm rests was brown and actually slick from the build up of skin oil and dirt. Gah... The steering wheel had one of those slip on crappy covers and it was almost stick with sweat and dirt:

So, after making many dirty rags:

It looked (and SMELLED) much better:

Seats are stained and split, but comfortable, so I threw on a cheap set of seat covers. I also put on my preferred steerign wheel cover but it doesn't fit quite well enough. I'm pretty sure I'm going to try wrapping the wheel with road bike handlebar tape (like hockey or bat tape for you non cyclists) but it will do for now.

Both door panels are fugly (as is the carpet) but the driver's side is cracked and was flopping around half loose. It rattled and squeaked unbearably on the drive home until I jammed a folded piece of paper behind it. While cleaning I popped the door panel off and found that every push in connector was stripped out. I picked up a pack of universal ones at O'AdvanceZone and now it is rock solid. Well, still cracked and ugly, but not floppy and squeaky. win.

So, now on to detailing current problems.

Okay, known issues in roughly descending order of importance:

• Wet carpet along driver's door sill - rain leak. Maybe front window seal? Maybe cowl leaking? The seals on the drivers side window are bad but the bottom of the door seemed dry, so I dunno.
• No dash lights - instruments or hvac controls (but the dome and radio lights work)
• temp gauge moves but barely gets off the C. Maybe this is related to the gauge lights although all other gauges are fine. Maybe it's a feature.
• turn signals are strange. They work but have long on states and short off states and are irregular. I'm thinking bad ground, bad flasher, or weirdness with the brake controller wiring.
• End of trans gear selector that holds the OD switch is broken off and taped back on. Switch still works, probably try and epoxy it back on. Or just tape it better.
• Front end / steering is vague. It's easily drivable and honestly doesn't feel like other trucks I've driven that have worn balljoints/tierods/bushings. It really tracks pretty well...heck, it may just be that I'm not used to HD trucks.
• rear bumper and receiver hitch are bent down slightly. Looks like it was tapped or he backed into something. A couple of the bolt holes in the frame ends are tweaked. It's usable as is but I'll probably want to try and straighten it up before we get the big boat.
• Broken bolt on rear end cover - leaking slightly. Probably no big, just keep it full for now.
• Power steering leaks. I think it does anyway, it was really low on fluid. Probably just keep it full too.
• Cab roof lights aren't getting power. I want my Semi lights.
• Hood is bent up about 3/4" at the hinge on the passenger side.
• Little dents everywhere, scratches all over. Not really critical but I might try to polish it out if I get ambitions.

More to come, watch for ninja edits

Looks like fun. Steering is vague with the twin I-beam setup, you'll get used to it.

Yeah, I had a '69. This is miles ahead. Like I said, it doesn't really feel like it's worn out. I'll probably have the local alignment shop take a look at it and tell me what it needs, then do it myself if needed. It does pull a little so an alignment can't hurt.

Welcome to the club, my little 97 is almost the same as your 96. Get a turbo downpipe and a tuner for some easy power gains.

Dash and cab lights are likely a fuse.
Wet floor might be a rotten window corner or a rusted and rotted trim "nail". Although it could be coming from leaking cab light gaskets too, especially if they are original.
Steering is going to be vague. Just the way they were made, but it just works.
There is a dorman kit for the OD button.
Hood hinge is bent from the hood flying up once. Replace the hinge with one from LMC or NPD.

I would immediately replace the glow plug relay with the Western Plow part for much better and cheaper starting. Also upgrade the starter to the newer SuperDuty one. Mine spins over so much easier with those two upgrades.

Convenience items. These are happening as I can concurrent with maintenance and repair.

• fresh headlights. Le session are fogged as hell so I already ordered a new pair. $70 for the Capa certified pair, a no-Brainerd after trying to polish the horribly dim ones on the Explorer.
• blue tooth, ipod controlling, xm ready receiver. Because it's a long haul vehicle. Already ordered.
• camper shell. Much as I hate them for looks and ease of access reasons, there's no other real answer for hauling lots of luggage and keeping high dollar bicycles and stuff safe. If anybody has one they want to get rid of, please let me know. I'll be outfitting the interior to some extent too.
• extra power points and ac converter. Because reasons.
• improved seating, maybe. Probably wet okole seat covers and seat heaters with a little foam work, but if I find a deal on a late model power seat set, well...

Ranger50 wrote: Dash and cab lights are likely a fuse. Wet floor might be a rotten window corner or a rusted and rotted trim "nail". Although it could be coming from leaking cab light gaskets too, especially if they are original. Steering is going to be vague. Just the way they were made, but it just works. There is a dorman kit for the OD button. Hood hinge is bent from the hood flying up once. Replace the hinge with one from LMC or NPD. I would immediately replace the glow plug relay with the Western Plow part for much better and cheaper starting. Also upgrade the starter to the newer SuperDuty one. Mine spins over so much easier with those two upgrades.

I checked the fuse. It's good and has power. Everything that's out share a ground. That's my next guess.

I know the cab light gaskets between lense and housing are done. Not sure about housing to cab. Will check that.

Explain more about the rusted trim nail?

Will check on the Dorman kit, thanks.

The entire glow plug system was just replaced. I have the receipt for the work. Thanks for the reference though.

The old thing starts instantly right now, but again will keep that for future reference.

The chrome trim attaches to the body by snapping onto a stud, or what looks like a nailhead, welded to the body. This is why you need that funny shaped window trim tool to remove the trim. It releases the clip from the stud. Well, it's possible for the stud to rust off and allow a pin hole leak to start, especially if the trim has been removed once before.

Cab lights are $5 at Napa, if you buy the universal ones from Grote that surprisingly look like the stock OE ones.....

In reply to Ranger50:

Will the trim feel loose if they're rusted off?

Hmm.

One thing fixed ...funky turn signal behavior was corrected by replacing the flasher with an HD electronic version.

Okay, gents, here's a little more info on the water leak. We got some rain last night, and in preparation I moved the floor mat over against the driver's door and up into the corner of the footwell under the parking brake. My theory was that if the water were dripping out from under the dash anywhere, it should end up in the mat, which is one of the deep-relief kind that will hold a good bit.

This morning the mat was completely dry, but the carpet along the door sill underneath it was wet. No evidence of any water from under the dash. Pretty sure this means my leak is from the exterior side window seal on the driver's door which is completely shot. Or maybe from the vent window seal, but it looks mostly okay.

The truck is at the alignment shop right now for a general front end check. We'll see what they find on that front.

EDIT: The verdict is that she needs all new tie rods, all the way across, including sleeves. And Ball joints. And Camber adjusters for the ball joints. The quote for them to do it all was $1240. I can buy all the stuff from Rock auto for less than $500, so there's no way Im paying labor.

Not that it's unfair by any means, but I can do it at some point and save enough money for other stuff.

All front end parts ordered, all MOOG, plus new door window seals to hopefully cure my rain leak. $400 shipped. Gotta love cheap trucks.

I've been hitting minor projects on the truck around getting the lowering springs and camber plates on the Mustang. I spent the first weekend of the new year wrenching for 6 hours a day. Good start to the year...

After Christmas I spent two hours doing redneck yoga crawling around under the dash while it pounded rain, looking for a leak. The floorboard by the door is still wet, but there are zero signs of water under the dash. No drips, no streaks, the dust hasn't been disturbed. I did manage to draw blood on a sharp corner. After it quit raining I put one of my shop stickers on the window. It's officially mine now.

One of the most annoying problems was total lack of interior lights. Taking apart the dash and doing some testing isolated it as a bad headlight switch as the problem. Interestingly, it's pretty clear the dash has never been apart. fasteners were still super tight and there were 20 years of dust and funk inside the dash:

But afterward I had working lights! Like a real car or something!

You can also see the new Bluetooth, Sirious ready, Ipod controlling Digital Media receiver I put in. The white Ipod plug runs internal to the glove box. As a long distance vehicle, tunes and phone connection are critical.

As are good headlights: Before

After

I also changed the serpentine belt. It was squalling like crazy when cold, plus the alternator output was low when you first crank the truck. Once driven about 100 feet it comes up to normal and remains fine the rest of the drive. The new belt solved the noise, but not the voltage issue Powerstroke!

The truck is really odd. A lot of stuff has been maintained beautifully - new batteries, new tires, all the hoses look recent, still has all the trim bits on the engine and around the radiator, fluids look great, new air filter - and some stuff has been neglected horribly. At least the neglected stuff is all minor / cosmetic.

Alternator has a funky excite turn on. Mine does the same thing, quick blip and it turns on and then shows proper voltage on the dash.

And if you haven't yet, get a help replacement headlight knob and stick and heed this advise, your glovebox REQUIRES a replacement camshaft position sensor from Ford.

Also, make sure the cruise recall has been done. I can't see if there is a 50A fuse and harness running off the master cylinder.

Is the alternator a waiting-to-fail situation? or does it run that way for a long while?

wait...the headlight knob and stick seemed fine when I replaced the switch...what happens there?

I knew there should always be a spare firewall starter solenoid on board. Is the camshaft sensor the same kind of thing?

Good thought on the recall. I should run the VIN to see if it's been handled, and check for the fuse.

I enjoy reading adventure of the tow vehicles, makes me want to go out and get to work on my 06 to get it into better shape for hauling purposes when I can get a trailer.

In reply to ultraclyde:

Alternator hasn't failed on mine ever. Only replaced it because of bearing noise.

Knob breaks off. Easier to release the stick after it breaks and install a new one.

CPS is a known psd issue. Never had to do a starter solenoid until I broke one of the studs off from corrosion replacing the battery cable.

Don't have to check the VIN. Just look at the master for a 50a maxi fuse and harness coming off the master cylinder.

Gotcha. Wait till the alternator dies, don't worry about the solenoid, get a cps. No fuse I can see, so call the dealership about the recall.

You guys have better info than the "experts" on the diesel forum.

Hey, when you did replace the alternator, did that solve the issue?

Negative on the alternator.

I'm registered on the psd forums, powerstrokenation, thedieselstop, powerstroke.org, powerstrokearmy, and compdiesel for out there builds. The rest tend to be more noise then anything.

Oh and if the CPS recall hasn't been done either, get that done and see if they give you the old one back as a spare with a just replaced it sob story.

So it still does it after an alternator? Interesting.

The only reason all that shows when I put the Vin in the ford site is the cruise control fuse.

In other news, I've got a line on a drivers door and two good interior panels that may be a color match, all for $200. Waiting on pics.

I'm single handedly supporting Rock Auto these days:

That's all the parts for the tie rods and ball joints, but I'm not doing them quite yet. I did spend this weekend doing some basic maintenance - oil and filter change, fuel filter, and thermostat. The truck never moved much off the cold mark and the heat in the truck never got better than luke warm, so I figured the t-stat was stuck open. While I was in there I threw on a new water neck since they have a reputation for warping and it was only $10.

First step was to get the beast into the shop. This is where I normally park the Mustang, so I had to move a bunch of crap to get the truck in far enough to close the door. It's a good damn thing I didn't buy a 4 door truck...

Draining the coolant was a pleasant surprise. Easily the cleanest I've ever seen in a used vehicle. Probably better than what's in any of my cars, actually: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/20368279/20160109_105343.jpg

T-stat removal and install was uneventful, even easy. Luckily the 8mm bolts weren't seized and none broke off (which is apparently common.) the old t-stat wasn't stuck open but did have some rubber parts deteriorating, so better safe than sorry. Very industrial looking new water neck:

So after that I changed the oil, oil filter, and fuel filter. Part of the drain tube on the fuel bowl is missing, so it drained fuel all over the top of the engine. Yay.

I also checked the rear diff oil since there's a broken bolt on the cover and I was afraid it might have leaked down. It was plenty full, and ran out as soon as I pulled the plug. Unfortunately the color has me a little weirded out:

It looks like it has water in it...kind of. I've seen no evidence of the truck being underwater, the guy didn't have a boat, there's no mud under the truck like it was deep stuck... and the truck had been parked for two days when this was checked. I would think that water would have separated out by then. I have found mention that some of the trucks used factory lube that was kind of a gray color, so maybe it's original? Or Ford serviced? Anyway, I'll be changing the fluid soon to be safe, which will mean dealing with the broken bolt on the rear diff cover. The bolt itself tells me someone was trying to do something with the rear end, but who knows what.

Also, after doing all that work I only moved the truck out of the shop. This morning (Monday) when I tried to drive to work the thing kept stalling and wouldn't make it further than the end of the street. But I'll start a thread on the main forum for that issue...

I think most likely I didn't reprime the fuel bowl well enough. or, you know, at all.

I replaced the CPS this afternoon and she's running great again. I took it out on a test drive to celebrate. After changing the t-stat I actually got to see the heat gauge get all the way up to the middle and had good, hot air coming out of the vents for the first time since I bought it! Victory!

I also used the Torque app to watch the boost. I found a short steep hill and just floored it from a dead stop. With a completely unloaded truck I was maxing at 14.6psi, so it's in the ballpark of right for a stock truck. That's a good sign. I was reading HPOP pressures and exhaust backpressure too, but I don't know what normal is there yet.

Yay for progress!

For right now, unplug the exhaust backpressure sensor. It will force the blade to remain open and eliminate a source of horrific oil loss for the time being.

HPOP should be above 2500 psi. I seem to recall those pressures are a tenth of the current high pressure fuel values seen now, which are 25-29k psi.