it'll be interesting to see how those EBC Green's hold up; color me "in for more updates"
it'll be interesting to see how those EBC Green's hold up; color me "in for more updates"
Let’s just say that they are not often seen on successful endurance racing cars. Even yellowstuffs don’t last all that long.
Raybestos ST43s are quite well liked, especially on cars under 3000lbs. On our Civic they lasted 5 races before we went turbo, with zero rotor wear.
kevinatfms said:bobzilla said:I remember 4th was sticky with the hard poly bushings on the trans side. I lubed them with some white lithium and it helped. Did you do the shifter base too?
No, i ordered a set but they came for a base Veloster and 100% dont fit. They are too short.
Unless i can get my buddy with a lathe to turn some down for me ill probably just stick with the rubber for now. TWM used to make bushings but i havent seen them around for a while. You have any leads before i go begging a friend with booze?
The shifter as it is now is very, very notchy. The cables seem to have some wear on them also where the cable slips through the sheeth. My last one had the same wear but wasnt as pronounced. Im going to pop the cables off and see if they are sticking at all.
I did an install/write up for those long long ago. I haven't even looked in 14+ years to be honest. Definitely pull the cables and maybe lube them?
Sonic said:Let’s just say that they are not often seen on successful endurance racing cars. Even yellowstuffs don’t last all that long.
Raybestos ST43s are quite well liked, especially on cars under 3000lbs. On our Civic they lasted 5 races before we went turbo, with zero rotor wear.
I will say that driving them on the street munches rotors though. I'm still looking for a pad that I can swap that is compound friendly with the ST43.
Sonic said:Let’s just say that they are not often seen on successful endurance racing cars. Even yellowstuffs don’t last all that long.
Raybestos ST43s are quite well liked, especially on cars under 3000lbs. On our Civic they lasted 5 races before we went turbo, with zero rotor wear.
That is what im worried about. Porterfield and Carbotech make pads for the car so we can go extreme if we need to. These were cheap and easy to get so we will run them for now.
bobzilla said:kevinatfms said:bobzilla said:I remember 4th was sticky with the hard poly bushings on the trans side. I lubed them with some white lithium and it helped. Did you do the shifter base too?
No, i ordered a set but they came for a base Veloster and 100% dont fit. They are too short.
Unless i can get my buddy with a lathe to turn some down for me ill probably just stick with the rubber for now. TWM used to make bushings but i havent seen them around for a while. You have any leads before i go begging a friend with booze?
The shifter as it is now is very, very notchy. The cables seem to have some wear on them also where the cable slips through the sheeth. My last one had the same wear but wasnt as pronounced. Im going to pop the cables off and see if they are sticking at all.
I did an install/write up for those long long ago. I haven't even looked in 14+ years to be honest. Definitely pull the cables and maybe lube them?
Pulled the ends of the cables and its not the cables.....100% transmission. Cables are free and easy to pull. Guessing 4th gear was on its way out before we started.
Sonic said:Let’s just say that they are not often seen on successful endurance racing cars. Even yellowstuffs don’t last all that long.
Raybestos ST43s are quite well liked, especially on cars under 3000lbs. On our Civic they lasted 5 races before we went turbo, with zero rotor wear.
What did you go to after that?
In reply to kevinatfms :
I've heard that on a few of the Spectra's (shares the XD chassis/engine/trans). Usually second was the big offender (on the synchros anyway).
wvumtnbkr said:Sonic said:Let’s just say that they are not often seen on successful endurance racing cars. Even yellowstuffs don’t last all that long.
Raybestos ST43s are quite well liked, especially on cars under 3000lbs. On our Civic they lasted 5 races before we went turbo, with zero rotor wear.
What did you go to after that?
Still the ST43, then they lasted 3 races. Still no rotor wear, but we do get some cracking after about a year, where the last set of rotors lasted 3 years. There is a higher heat version of the same compound, st47 maybe, that others use on the bigger cars. We are going to give the ST43 a try on our new z32 300zx, and see how it holds up, as it does fine on our Cressida and RX7 too, and the Hombre before that.
Didnt get any work done this past weekend as I had a family emergency on Saturday morning and we didnt get out of the hospital till the end of the day Sunday.
I did get the intake manifold and throttle body from the junkyard. So ill be cleaning them and send them off to get ported this week. Maxbore.com will be porting the throttle body and port matching the intake manifold. Guy has done amazing work for me in the past and really knows his stuff.
Installed new clutch line from a DSM. Its a bit long but works and we have great pedal feel.
Installed new braided front brake lines. Meant for a Tiburon but work for the Elantra. Just had to swap sides to match the brackets on the struts.
Put new front poly sway bushings on to replace the cracked originals. The bracket bolts were frozen so they took some time to get out. Made sure to use extra anti-sieze to ensure they come back out if need be.
Also measured for the cage. Will be sending them in today to have S&W make a prebent cage. Hope our measurements are good. If not, we will be buying extra tube and 1/8" steel plate for the spreader plates.
Removed the windshield and rear window on Friday afternoon. Cage should be here in the next week or so and this will give us some extra room to weld. We are going with an OE front replacement glass but lexan on everything else.
Having daily driven three gutted Samurais for years, I’m really wanting a semi-gutted, light and simplified car again.
I love this!
I have to admit that reading and watching this thread has got me wanting to upgrade/modify my sons Elantra GT Auto. I know he would not see the difference in it, it could be fun for him to learn how to replace the rear sway bar and bushings.
Still waiting on the cage, fire suppression and electrical cut off switch. Hope to have them in by the end of March. Wont make it to the first autocross event with the Elantra but will be taking my Fiesta ST. Would love to get the Elantra ready by the second autocross event.
We are also discussing taking it to Gridlife at Summit Point for the HPDE. Everyone is going to be placed into the novice bracket though since none of us have ever done an HPDE with the event organizers. So it may not be a point by until we get some seat time with them.
Either way, we will get this thing on track soon. We are all anxious to get it 100% done.
kevinatfms said:We are also discussing taking it to Gridlife at Summit Point for the HPDE.
GridLife @Summit Point!? Man, I move out of the country, and all the cool stuff happens.
sleepyhead said:kevinatfms said:We are also discussing taking it to Gridlife at Summit Point for the HPDE.
GridLife @Summit Point!? Man, I move out of the country, and all the cool stuff happens.
Yeah, April 27/28 on the Shennandoah(spelling?) circuit. I dont know if they will let us run it though as the cage will be ERW tubing in 1.75x.120 wall. The rules specifically state no ERW will be accepted. Guess the car will be relegated to Lemon's and Chump from here on out.
Still waiting on safety stuff.
Thinking we are going to install the coilovers in the next two to three weeks. We were going to hold off until we get one event under the belt before swapping anything else into the car but at this point we arent rushing to get to any event. So, i owe one of the team members an oil pan gasket change on his Miata, i plan on holding off until the 23rd as the weekend of the 16th is our first autocross of the year.
So by the 23rd we will have the cage in, fire suppression in, electrical work completed, coilovers installed and aligned and the lexan windows will be in progress. We hope....
Roll cage shipped Fedex today! Should get it early next week. Also headed today to go grab some extra 1 3/4" .120 wall for extra bracing along with some 1/8" steel plate for the gussets and more spreader plate.
Shipped an extra throttle body to Max Bore in Florida to port the throttle body from the OE 50mm to a whopping 57mm. His work is outstanding for the price and this will be the 3rd or 4th time ive used him to port a throttle body. Guy just knows his stuff when it comes to machine work.
and some decals from trackdecals.com. They have been my go-to for a while for anything i need. All the important stuff for safety.
Electrical cut off switch came in with the mounting plate from Pyrotect. Cage should be delivered tomorrow and fire suppression by Thursday.
Saturday is autocross day(going in the Fiesta) but Sunday we will start tackling the cage install, cooling system, bleeding the brakes/clutch and starting the cutting of the door metal and rear parcel shelf.
Just curious... why erw?
As you pointed out, some series won't allow it.
Also, why such big tubes?
I would think an extra 100$ or so would be worth the weight reduction.
I guess too late now, but worth thinking about for the next cage.
wvumtnbkr said:Just curious... why erw?
As you pointed out, some series won't allow it.
Also, why such big tubes?
I would think an extra 100$ or so would be worth the weight reduction.
I guess too late now, but worth thinking about for the next cage.
Its just going to be a Chump/Lemon's car. No need for anything else. I also dont know what other series we could even enter besides E36 M3box racing and autocross.
The tube sizing was chosen as a decision with everyone involved. We have a few reasons why we went bigger on the tubing and the wall thickness at .120 especially with the roof structure as thin as it is. This is a Korean economy car that got extremely poor crash ratings due to the roof design.
EDIT: spoke with the guys and everyone decided to agree to go with a DOM cage for any events that require SCCA approval on the tubing material(HPDE's, GridLife...etc). DOM cage incoming.
Started cutting up the doors to pull weight. Marked off all 4 doors and started cutting yesterday. Hope to have all 4 completed by today. Also going to cut the hood up, trunk up and dash structure up(remove the A/C and heat too).
Marked the front doors like this as a template to cut...
Once they are all cut out we will use rubber edge trim to make sure no one looses any blood from the edges. They are damn sharp!
On another note, DOM cage should be shipped by Tuesday. We had to lengthen two bars to get it to fit 100%. So while the ERW was a total waste of money it did help us mock parts of it up for fitment.
Lexan is ordered for the two side windows and rear window. We also pinned the trunk and removed the latches.
Ill get more pictures as things start to come together.
Passenger rear door gutted. Ordered some edge trim off Amazon to install to reduce the sharp edges.
Hope to finish the two front doors this weekend and start on the hood and trunk.
Weekend work went very well. Got the trunk, doors and A/C stripped. Started working on the wiring removal.
Engine bay minus some A/C equipment. Lights are covered for front bumper painting. Gold Krylon actually matches the factory paint color so its a win-win for us. Cheap paint job to look uniform.
Front door gutted. Someone(cough cough Mr J) went a little too wild with the cut off wheel. Its ok though as we will be covering the tops of the doors with closed cell foam padding.
Rear door gutted and some edge trim rubber added. Closed cell foam to be added up top.
Trunk gutted and painted to stop rust. Its extremely flimsy but still rigid enough to keep its shape. Its also VERY light. Almost comical that the two latches holding it feel heavier than the trunk itself. Its also pinned down so the stock latch and catch are gone.
Wiring being yanked to simplify the body harness. Going to remove alot of wire from things like the door locks, window motors, speakers, air con, heater, rear glass defroster....etc. Excited to see how much we drop this car down to. Any guesses on final weight?
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