So I had to redo the entire oil pan gasket to get it to seal, and there is still a MUCH SLOWER drip from somewhere. I had to do the pan twice, because I missed a stud and it was massively leaky the first time, so who knows.
At this point I am considering burning it to the ground
Much slower can be lived with. The 300TD daily driver leaks a half-dollar-sized puddle in 15 minutes of idling. This equates to a bit less than a quart a month.
volvoclearinghouse wrote: Much slower can be lived with. The 300TD daily driver leaks a half-dollar-sized puddle in 15 minutes of idling. This equates to a bit less than a quart a month.
It's even slower than that, but it's just frustrating as I replaced nearly every oil containing/touching thing just now. I am seeing maybe 3 drops in ten minutes.
SO MUCH OIL, the whole bottom of the car is covered with it because with my oil pan mistake, I was finely spraying oil all out the back of the engine.
3 drops of oil in 10 minutes would be better than factory for an air cooled 911.
Getting things clean though, gah, nothing like knowing that touching any surface of the car will require hand scrubbing unless you spend way too much time cleaning. I hate that.
mazdeuce wrote: 3 drops of oil in 10 minutes would be better than factory for an air cooled 911. Getting things clean though, gah, nothing like knowing that touching any surface of the car will require hand scrubbing unless you spend way too much time cleaning. I hate that.
And the hood, and the doors, and the window frames, and the....
I replaced every seal in my Corvair, and get about 3 drops in 10 minutes. You'll be fine.
The entire underside of my 300TD is coated in oil due to the leak in the SLS system I recently repaired. Look at it as additional chassis lubrication and rust-proofing. 
volvoclearinghouse wrote: I replaced every seal in my Corvair, and get about 3 drops in 10 minutes. You'll be fine. The entire underside of my 300TD is coated in oil due to the leak in the SLS system I recently repaired. Look at it as additional chassis lubrication and rust-proofing.
I just hope it burns off everything hot somewhat soon, it was a smelly and smokey ride to work today.
No more drips!
That's a major accomplishment in my world. I hate oil leaks.
tuna55 wrote: No more drips!
Good news.
I was about to mail you one of these to glue on the bonnet; seems to make oil leaks acceptable for a whole genre of automobiles.
drips are back. Not kidding.
Also I can't seem to fix yet another leak in my gardens irrigation system.
I give up. I'm just going to dump a quart of oil right on top of the hood every morning and see what happens.
Is it possible its still the oil pump gasket? Is there a gouge or some schmutz on the sealing surface? is it possible some RTV + new gasket could solve your issue? I have been in not-dissimilar situations in the past, and some RTV is all it took to cure my issue.
4cylndrfury wrote: Is it possible its still the oil pump gasket? Is there a gouge or some schmutz on the sealing surface? is it possible some RTV + new gasket could solve your issue? I have been in not-dissimilar situations in the past, and some RTV is all it took to cure my issue.
The oil pump sits in a recess in the front of the block and has two O rings, one to separate the high and low pressure ports and another to seal against the block. Unless it's just coming loose (possible), I can't see how. You can't really use RTV with success there.
It's also possible that it's the pan again.
tuna55 wrote: Also I can't seem to fix yet another leak in my gardens irrigation system
Straight run of PVC? Use one of these. Don't mess around with glue couplings unless you have no other choice.
FooBag wrote:tuna55 wrote: Also I can't seem to fix yet another leak in my gardens irrigation systemStraight run of PVC? Use one of these. Don't mess around with glue couplings unless you have no other choice.
It's a rain bird system with the pop up head removed and a manifold installed in its place.
So when I bought this car it had no light on the passenger side, though I didn't know if it was low or high beam, because the indicator didn't work and the driver side looked pretty much the same on high and low beam.
There was a disconnected wire running from the driver side to the passenger side which I hooked up, and got both beams working, but they were not working the indicator and it wasn't obvious which was which from the drivers seat. The other day, I lose one of the beams, so I dug in for real.
It turns out that the wire running from one to the other was a crappy PO add on. The hot wire on the driver side was stripped of its insulation for about an inch, a random wire curled around it once, and then running to the other side where the same song and dance happened. I checked and sure enough, no voltage on the unused hot wire on the passenger side.
It turns out that this car has four headlight fuses. One for each beam and for each side. It had simply blown a fuse and the dude bypassed it by running a wire from the other side. Then, there was a break in the drivers side wire which shorted that side out so both were gone again.
A little solder, a little heat shrink, two new 15A fuses, and both high and low beams work, along with the high beam indicator. Yay!
Blown fuse....REWIRE THE CAR!!!!!
facepalm
volvoclearinghouse wrote: Blown fuse....REWIRE THE CAR!!!!! *facepalm*
Yes, exactly! And not even rewire it well, just strip off some insulation, run some random wires (connected to each other with tape) across the radiator support.
Close enough!
So as many of you might know, I have been chasing an issue with the car's idle. It wants to idle at 3K RPM while moving and for a few seconds after stopping. Once you stop and have been stopped, idle returns to normal. This is weird.
There is a diagnostic available for it via the original manual, but it is wonky, and I could not follow it properly. I instead tried for the ham-fisted "throw parts at it" approach, through very inexpensively done, with known good used parts from a fellow GRMer.
Disconnecting the idle air control valve works, though you have to adjust the idle speed and it throws a CEL and will not compensate the idle for A/C use.
Disconnecting the TPS works, but it coughs at startup.
I tried to run the diagnostic on the TPS, and removed it only to find that it had fused itself shut and broken. This was a red herring, however, as replacing it with a known good unit did not solve the issue.
I have thus replaced the ECU, the AICV and the TPS. These are the only things in the manual other than "wiring" which are in the tree, but that seems weird.
Does anyone have other thoughts?
In which, Tuna finds that he can get the Accord fairly far into the garage to work on it:
In which, Tuna decides it's time to handle that pesky and small oil leak:
So what's the worst part, that the RTV make-a-gasket leaks almost exactly the same as the actual gasket did (well, it might be from somewhere else, but the old setup definitely had a leak were the gasket inexplicably tore, and it still drips this morning), or that I also found this while under there?
I would be so pissed off at this shiny happy person Honda that I would just quit and go work on the truck.
And correct me if I am wrong, but is this not the FIRST ever picture of the Tunalab's secret truck development facility?
NOHOME wrote: I would be so pissed off at this shiny happy person Honda that I would just quit and go work on the truck.
Nope, there have been others. One of a kid welding, a few moving pictures, it's just been FOREVER.
You should see the house-based honey-do list. It's insane. I make more money by leaps and bounds over last year and it's still all gone. Kids can be expensive. Art class, music lessons, gymnastics, homeschool field trips, blah blah blah.
It's coming, but really I need a DD without a CEL on and without an oil leak first.
I did a split boot on the CV joint.
Yup, one of those idiotic glue-on split boots.
It's worked great, so far.
it's blue. Which is odd. No pics though. It's ugly.
The blue is to remind you of what you've done and shame you into fixing it properly. I would have done the same thing though.
And this is going to sound terrible, but have you traced and cleaned the grounds? I haven't looked at the wiring diagram for your car but I seem to remember Hondas of this era having several grounds and at least some of the early electrical goofiness is pretty sensitive to getting just the right reading.
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