71 Karmann Ghia ej22

Got the clutch tube in. Going wait until I make sure nothing hits or rubs before I weld the tunnel holes back up. 

Have to run to the store and get some bolts for the intake. Need to get some coolant lines and spark plugs and some more metal to make the engine mounts from. 

Going try and get the motor mocked up this weekend, if the weather holds out. Can't wait until I can start on building the real garage. 

Got the crossover piece cleaned and and mounted. Cleaned up the intake some more also. 

And this is for down the road. 

Worked on it quite a bit this weekend. I got the coolant crossover pipe and intake on. Also got the clutch and pressure plate and throw out bearing on. 

Got the motor and trans together. Got the starter hooked on. Was able to crank it over a little with my dead battery. Was nice to hear it turn over. 

That's not going work

Used a piece of leftover 180 pipe. Ended up having to pie cut it to clear the decklid. 

I was thinking leaving the throttle where it was and just running the U in and back out of the firewall with a filter hung on the end as it comes back into the engine bay.

Your way makes more sense.

In reply to NOHOME :

A lot of guys flip the intake. But that usually involves some welding on aluminum and I don't have the tools for that yet. So this seemed the easier solution and will be built outta of leftovers too. 

Just have the cold air intake in the cockpit so that you can enjoy those sweet sounds! 

 I joke, but can remember how the supercharged V6 Stalkers used to do that. Pretty funny. 

Very cool project. As has been said, far too many abandoned and forlorn Ghias out there. Just save some money in your budget for 4-wheel disc brakes. With the rear weight bias, the rear brakes work a lot more than on other cars.

In reply to Kreb :

Cool thing with the subbies is they are almost the same size as the aircooled engines. I didnt weight anything but the internet tells me its only about an extra 50lbs. So even with all the extra cooling parts and coolant I shouldnt be but about 100lbs heavier. 

Yeah, but your speed potential is much higher, thus the brakes recommendation. I've got a Fiat 850 with a Subbie engine in the back. Upgrading the front brakes only went so far. When all 4 were upgraded it made a world of difference. 

What ECU are you using? Mine runs microsquirt.

In reply to Kreb :

Stock ecu on this one. When I turbo it I'll just run a fmu and call it a day. Its going be low boost anyways. 

Not an exciting update. Had work to do on my dd and stuff around the house. 

I did get some motor mounts ordered up. Also ordered up a new o2 sensor, some hard line clamps, a new bosch 044 pump and bracket, and some more an fittings. Also have to get some more plate steel to finish/start the motor plate I'm going build. 

Started hooking up the wires. Still need to tuck and route it. Was just mocking it up to make sure I knew where it all went. 

Built a motor plate for it. 

Got the motor plate installed and the new motor mounts. Has 7in of group clearance as it sets. 

tested the reman starter I bought off eBay. Surprise it doesn't work. Going see if they will swap it or refund me. Looks like the thing was setting in a bucket of water. Solenoid is shot and had water (or some clear fluid) leaking out of it. Glad I tested it before I filed it to fit. 

Small car has a cast oil pan that is about 3" shorter than stock. Burly motorsports also has a shortened stock pan. That's if you want to have a little more clearance.

Spent a little time today. Tested to see if I had spark. Video didn't really capture it good. But it's got spark and injectors seem to be pulsing,  I could  smell old fuel while cranking. Next step it to rig up fuel to see if it runs after sitting for so long.

How do I embed this video?

Thanks birgerbuilder. That was easy once I knew what to click on. 

In reply to bigfranks84 :

Excellent!  Glad to see this on Page 1!

Click the page icon with the + next to the picture button. Then drop that same link in there. When I tried to use Youtube's "embed" link it wouldn't work, but the regular link does work. 

Thanks guys. Spark looks much weaker in the video than it does in person. I think it was just to bright out and I was facing it camera into the light. I really need to setup my tripod and dslr instead of using my phone. 

Going try and rig up fuel this week. But I'm waiting on some new Subaru exhaust studs and nuts and new plug wires since I saw a slice in couple of the wires.

Also waiting on the highest quality racing header off the old Ebay. For 50 shipped I figured I'd take the gamble.

It actually bolted right up. I'm happy with the height on the drivers side. Not so much after that.  I'll end up tucking up the rest of it at some point. I need to drop it off the ramps and see how much ground clearance I lost. But for $50 I can not complain. 

Well, looks about the same.  But now it has new exhaust studs and cleaned off the old gaskets and put new on.

Here's another view.

Also not real happy with the elbow I made, so I ordered up a new elbow and am going to redo it.

Didn't have alot of time today. Got out of work late today. But did pull the harness and then went to drill a hole for the harness grommet.

Followed by me looking all around and not being able to find the size I needed. Once I get that I can run the harness for real.

Oh yeah, X Mark's the spot were the harness will enter the cabin.

Trying to be like tuna55 and at least do a little work on it each day.

I did also go out and measure the length for the new neg battery cable I need for the old ford.

I also built my wife a door for the end of the hall this weekend while she is out of town. So I do get some distractions from time to time. And it's been hot and I work in a warehouse for a large chunk of my day at work. So sometimes I really don't want to go work in the heat and blazing sun after work. 

Another short update. Got out of work and my wife is flying back tonight.

Got the hole drilled for the harness

 and yes, I lazily painted some of the firewall. Once this setup proves itself it will be yanked out and I'll do the real body work. And it needs lots of it. There's a ton of filler and fiberglass patches on her.

And got a 3in elbow to make my new throttle body adapter thing.

Worked on her some today. Started working on the fuel lines. Then realized my clips weren't here yet. Was able to get the coiled fuel line relatively straight. 

Then decided I'd work on the throttle body adapter. Went to grab a 2.5 hole saw and realized my kit didn't go that big. Decided to run into town and get some stuff.

Picked up a new ground cable and battery hold down for the old ford. Got a 2.5in hole saw. And picked up two galvanized steel fence top rails. Going use those for the coolant pipes.

Stopped by work and grabbed my trash finds from a shop in the same plaza as us.

Then got to work on the plates. Used the tb gasket as my template. Went mostly smooth until I went to use my chop saw and forgot I killed the blade when I had cut up some aluminum. So cut them with the cut off wheel and then proceeded to catch my self on fire. Been awhile since I've done that. 

Time to throw some brisket on. Don't have a smoker yet. So I make do with what I got. Have apple and mesquite chips in the foil.

Ok, worked on it a little today. Laid under it trying to decide on how I want to do the coolant lines.

Not my pan, but was a good pic to illustrate with. The purple lines would allow me to use straight pipes and just use universal hoses on the ends.

The green lines would require me going some were to get lines bent to follow the pan to body bolt channels.

I've seen it done both ways. If I did the green lines it would give be about 3/4" more ground clearance. If I do the purple lines they would be a touch lower than the front beam, I'd say 3/8" or so. Obviously they would be the lowest part on the floor pans, rear shocks and exhaust would be the lowest points overall.

This will never be slammed. My wife is not a fan of slammed and it's her car. If it was mine it be class 11 style. But even with the pipes in the purple arrangement I should have at least 4in of ground clearance. I think more but I got to drop it off the ramps and actually measure.

What would you go with?

I did the center run, but I've been under there a bit lately doing spring plate and diagonal arm bushings and have been considering moving them out board. I have a type 1 irs with a kelmark body. The body is wider than the pan and has room to tuck the lines up between the pan and the rocker pannel. 

If you do the center run and run the hard lines past the beam, make sure you space them enough to get a jack between them at the front beam. I did not, it makes jacking for jack stand a pain. I will be fixing this in the near future if I dont move them outboard. 

My install is still a bit rough, the goal was to get it back to a driver, then circle back and fix the rough stuff.