I've seen people take two of the stock TR6 air cleaners, cut them up and weld them back together for a sort of stock-looking 3 carb air cleaner. Takes some work but I sort of like the look:
I've seen people take two of the stock TR6 air cleaners, cut them up and weld them back together for a sort of stock-looking 3 carb air cleaner. Takes some work but I sort of like the look:
I've seen a few of those, and filter housings are available and relatively cheap!
That does indeed look very tidy! So if I could weld, and shape metal and had a couple of extra stock filter units, I could probably create one of those... but I can't/don't. I could farm out the work, though, and probably get one made for only twice the price of just buying the GoodParts piece! I do envy you guys who've mastered those skills.
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
I have a welder, grinder, and no fear of failure!
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
I have an extra filter box (I think). If I do, it's yours for shipping costs.
In reply to JoeTR6 :
We have a lot of TR6 owners in the regional club, and I suspect I could pick up a couple of ratty stock air boxes for cheap to free. No rush, as I have a functional system (well, nearly) now. I love that you guys have so many suggestions, and I truly value your input. The next couple of weeks are dedicated to prepping the TR3 for the new autocross season, with some front suspension refreshing and some major camber improvement!
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
Crap. I probably need to get my car done!
How long do we have?
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
February 26th! I (meaning you) will need to do a bit of welding in the next couple of weeks. Just small, not visible welds. And more drilling hubs for long wheel studs. Just a heads up, Michael!
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
Awesome. We got this!
Ive got to clean mine, figure out the hard start, check alignment, rebalance tires, hang the new airdam and splitter.....
Yep. Need to start sometime soon
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Sounds like we both have work to do!
JoeTR6 said:In reply to Stu Lasswell :
I have an extra filter box (I think). If I do, it's yours for shipping costs.
I'm putting together a care package for Stu. You can add to it if you want.
In reply to TVR Scott :
Great! Just add the soft top components and figure out how much I need to send you
Note today"s Featured Reader's Ride over there on the left side of the page... triple Strombergs with a GoodParts air box!
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
Missed it.
Well, it's been far too long since I've updated this forum, mostly since I have been neglecting my TVR project. Not in my head, mind you, but certainly in action. With that realization in mind, I decided to pull out the one component I've been ignoring... the bonnet. Ever since I removed it, it has sat in the corner while the frame, suspension, and mechanicals underwent refurbishment. The main body has been pretty much stripped (other than the door glass assemblies), but not the bonnet... headlights, turn signals, the remnants of the bumpers. That all went pretty well, considering the fasteners were mostly rusted solid, but nothing a heavy hand and an angle grinder couldn't tackle! Admittedly the bumper remains were just hacked up or ripped out, but that's the beauty of fiberglass. I can just patch it up and drill out new mounting holes . I knew that the bonnet had an alignment issue, and that one side was damaged where the hinge assembly was glassed into it. Well, it's actually much worse that I thought.
The corner that was out of alignment was completely detached, with nothing to re-attach it to! It got worse...
When I cut into the "tube" of fiberglass surrounding the cross-member, here you can see what fell out. The largest piece of steel tubing was no more that a couple of inches of crumbling rust. Pretty much all of the exposed steel tubing was intact. In fact, from what I've read most people find that they can't break loose the threaded adjustment fittings (the parts available) but mine came out with just some Liquid Wrench and applied force. The parts I need to replace, from what I've seen, are not offered. I'll inquire on the TVR forums if the metal sub-frame is available, and reasonable, but I'll most likely have my local welder reproduce it... maybe in stainless steel if that might help prevent it from dissolving into rust bits in the future. It's composed of standard round tubing, in short, straight pieces, so just a matter of getting all the angles and lengths correct.
The electrical components were also pretty corroded, but should pose no problem. The headlight bucket assemblies are TR6 I believe, probably generic British Lucas. The side-light/reflector unit is '70s Spitfire. The front parking/turn signal units seem generic, but I can't find the original donor... actually look like Suzuki Samurai or maybe a tractor? I'm sure I can find some substitute that will be close.
The lenses and chrome are all pretty decent, but the rubber bits and internal reflectors are shot.
I did bite the bullet and ordered 4 Konig Rewind 16"x7" wheels. Summit Racing was offering $50 off $500 orders, free shipping. So came in at about $125 each plus tax. look very nice!
They don't look 2" taller that the t-slot wheels... must be an optical illusion. The inch extra width makes for a very tight fit at the top, probably because I've got the camber max'd out (negative), but I have the ARP long studs installed for the anticipated spacers required. Lock to lock turn seems to be contact free.
So, I guess I'll be cutting out that sub-structure and seeing what my welder can do! I'll let you all know what I find out.
Nice work. I just got my bonnet frame off recently as well. Not quite as rusty as yours but I'll be making a new one as well.
There is a light similar to the one you are looking for under the bumper on the later spitfires. Looks like it might be smaller.
Nice wheel selection. You went with 16's? I may end up having to do that. I'm having trouble finding a good selection in 15's.
In reply to CoolHandMoss :
Thanks, Luke. I did an image search and that's where the Samurai/tractor connection came from for the lights. I'm not a purist, so I'm sure something is out there that will look right and be available at a reasonable cost. As to the wheels, the Rewinds are light and (reportedly) strong. I went with 16" for better 200tw selection in the widths we can use, but it's not really much better than 15". I'm planning on 205-50 in front, 225-45 rear, both having an (approx.) 24" diameter.
Nice wheel choice!
I can confirm that tire selection in the 15" size is thin. I run 15" Konigs, and at times I wish I had gone 16".
That's surprising to hear. I haven't looked in the last couple years since I stopped racing but for as long as I can remember there was always much better tire selection in 15". I'm glad to hear it has opened up in the 16" realm.
In reply to CoolHandMoss :
Can't really say that 16" has "opened up" so much as 15" has shrunk. There are actually a lot of good 15" tire options (thank you Miata) but they're generally too wide for our "vintage" applications.
Im just really happy to see this updated.
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
Oh I see.
Hmmm. This definitely affects my future wheel choices. I was planning on getting a set of the fattest 15" Revolutions that I could fit. Don't think they make 16" rims in the classic look.
Seems like there's a 16" x 7" Panasport out there. That might be a reasonable substitute.
Stu, your hood frame looks just the same as the rest of ours: totally falling apart! Gotta love consistency in a small-builder.
In reply to TVR Scott :
Good to know, Scott. If you can run, say, 245s then there are many good 15" tires in 200tw. Again, Miata. Panasports are kind of pricey, and their street wheels are actually heavier than the Konigs. As to the bonnet frame, you'd think if they all do that then there'd be replacements, hopefully in better materials, out there. I haven't really searched, but the usual sources, like Grey's, don't list them. Still, should be easy to replicate. I wonder if, assuming a jig will be needed, it would be worthwhile to have the welder make a few of them, as that could reduce the per item price, and provide some for others in need. I'll have to see what he says.
We ran 16x7 Panasport Racing wheels on the TR6 in Virginia. They are lighter than the street wheels, but are also not recommended for street use, have been out of production for a while, and were quite pricey. Maybe you could pick up a used set. I went with Rota RBs in 16x7 for my TR6. Under 17 lbs. and a decent price (about $150 each). IMO they look better than the Rewinds.
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