Yeah, those are the "other style". I spend a fair amount of time e-mailing back and forth with dimensions to make sure they made me the right ones.
But these cars seem to have varied a lot so what fits might very likely might not fit yours.
Did yours sit in customs for about two weeks? My bushing did in LA, and my "long expensive studs" are currently vacationing in Fla customs.
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
I know they hit New York USPS on Saturday, then took until the following Saturday to get here. Registered Mail always takes longer because it has to be signed for/scanned at each exchange, so can't go through the regular automation. (Sorry, USPS employee for over 30 years). As to fitment, I just should have asked you for the specifics of your order. They should be the same, as I think '73 and later used the same bushings everywhere. Then again, it's TVR, so not writ in stone!
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
My painfully expensive studs finally got out of customs-jail! Yay!
Eagerly waiting for painted frame pictures!
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :
It's still 2/3 painted... I have relatives from CA coming out later this week and "she who must be obeyed" has had me preparing guest quarters and general cleaning /maintenance in anticipation of their arrival. I hope to get out there tomorrow and at least finish up the topside, then turn it over in a couple of days and see what I missed from the bottom. I went to Lowes to get the primer, and they only had one can of the red(ish) primer, so I bought several cans of the flat black. With all the nooks and crannies of a tube frame, I'm finding it hard to distinguish between the flat black primer and the gloss black finish coat! I may have to drag it out in the sunlight for the final inspection!
I know that feeling all too well! All too well....
Enjoy the out of town company! Frame will still be there next week. Unless you need some "fresh air "
Well, thanks to Dusterbd13 I have a nice coat of glossy black paint on the frame... at least all that I can see/access without turning it over. I'll give it a day or so to dry, then turn it over and do the underside. Still will have to do the suspension parts, but I need to get that blast cabinet working better. Good news... Richard Good sent off my axles and R200 diff conversion kit. Bad news... only the cv axle and hub assemblies showed up. Somehow the other box, shipped at the same time, got misdirected and UPS can't tell when when to expect delivery yet. Oh well.
Stampie still plans of finding me a suitable R200 differential, but the one he sourced turned out to have spent time in a mud hole or something. He seemed quite confident that he'll turn up another, better candidate.
Frame, now all (or mostly) nice and shiny.
Richand Good (Goodparts) axles and hubs. Interesting fact... the R200 conversion mounts the diff slightly off center, so the axles are handed... one is slightly longer than the other!
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
I didn't know about the handed axles. I'm so happy I saw that!
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
I'm kicking myself for not pulling the one I saw in the yard a month ago. I saw it and said I should pull that just in case then was like naw no one else will need one. I was wrong. Just wondering cause I do have one, a 2004 350z diff won't work right?
That painted frame looks great, btw. What paint did you choose?
In reply to Stampie (FS) :
Any R200 diff will work, but there are two styles and 3 or 4 ratio options. Richard Good calls them R200 and R200B (the later version). The 350Z and 370Z are mostly the higher (numerical) ratios due to using 6-speed gearboxes. Go to Goodparts website, to his chart of differential sources. I think the automatic 370Z 'box is a 3.35 which I could use, but I ordered the conversion kit for the earlier version (Q45). But hey, if you find a good deal on a 3.35 or 3.6 later diff, I'll return the kit and get the other that he offers. Oh, and the R200B kit costs $200 more,so early Q45 may be the better choice. And many 350-370Z diffs are NOT LSD by the way.
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
I didn't know they were different lengths until Richard mentioned it on the phone. Yours should be tagged "right" and "left" (at least mine were). The paint I used was what Michael (Duster) had to give me... I'd have to look, but I think Valspar gloss black from Lowes.
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
Naw if you have the kit I'll find you a Q45 one. Hope one shows up in the yards before I come up there. If not we'll figure it out.
In reply to Stampie (FS) :
No worries, Stampie! Odds are I'll bog down here somewhere and won't be ready to install it for a while.
Valspar anti rust armor from lowes in gloss black gallon.
Id say its way better than rustoleum, and ALMOST as good as por15. For 30 a gallon or so.
It looks fantastic stu!
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :
Pictures lie. It looks OK, but it's not consistent. When I flip it I'll try to get the thin areas too. Thank you for the paint, Michael. It really does go a long way... I'll be returning a good part of what you left me!
Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:Valspar anti rust armor from lowes in gloss black gallon.
Id say its way better than rustoleum, and ALMOST as good as por15. For 30 a gallon or so.
It looks fantastic stu!
You rolling that? Spraying? Any primer?
I use a two inch brush. It self leveling pretty good. I use ospho and rusty metal primer for my truck and trailer frames and rusty floorboards, but just straight on if its a topcoat on a good surface or the metal has been blasted.
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
What Michael said. I primed because the humidity here means flash rust occurs within a week or so. The dusting of primer helped in combating the rust, but made discerning the painted vs. primed surfaces difficult. I envy you being able to leave your blasted surfaces exposed without worry. Much like when I lived in central Arizona, with single-digit humidity! Here we're verging on triple-digit most of the year.
This evening UPS finally got the rest of my Goodparts order to me. Now I have my R200 installation kit. I'd show a picture but I haven't bothered to open the box yet. I did get a fitting to run my shopvac with the blast cabinet... it does help, but it's still hard to see what I'm doing. Need more light. It also just doesn't blast away the crud like I thought it would. The media I got is pretty white and dusty, so I looked at the label. Just says blast media, but it's by Arm&Hammer, so I suppose it's technically soda blasting. Maybe not the most efficient for crusty iron and steel.
I got some help yesterday in flipping the chassis over, so today I did get to finish the painting. Lots of tubes there, and a lot more area I didn't get at than I realized. I think the whole frame structure is sealed in paint now (other than the bolt on parts I'm blasting) but once it's all dry I'll get it out in the sun and really look it over.
I have been concentrating on the back end, what with all the Goodparts stuff. I'd better go ahead and order some TR6 front suspension rebuild components. Might be cheapest to order the complete rebuild kit even though the TVR won't use every component. I've rebuilt Triumph front ends before so I know it's not difficult. And I've got that whole TR6 front end for spares... although that will probably be the primary source, and the rusty TVR parts will be the "back-up". Might have to order the coil-over shockers as well, since they're integral to completing the suspension and making it a rolling chassis.Hey, it's only money!
More paint questions: how much did you use on that frame?
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
Give the paint a good 24-48 to dry before handling with as humid as it is. Also, ill be around most all weekend if you need a hand manhandling the frame around the shop
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
Not sure. Michael gave me the can (gallon) with about a third gone. I would guess that there's probably a third left, but I have a quart jar that I've still got set aside. I think it will all be covered with a pretty thick coat of paint, suspension components included, with about that third of a gallon. It skinned over in the can a bit, but not much was wasted. Seems to dry pretty hard, and has a nice glossy finish.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :
I've noticed that it does indeed take a couple of days to dry hard. If I need help, I'll call you. The same goes for you regarding assistance!
Quick hello from another TVR owner. Excited for your progress.
Best,
Bernard.
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