Auto temp control sensor for the heat/ac is my WAG.
Auto temp control sensor for the heat/ac is my WAG.
WAG?
Wut inna hell yoo jess cawl me and wut langwitcher yoo speekin'?
wild a$$ guess. 
O.I.C.
I wasn't making fun of you, I've been watching Squidbillies.
Welcome to the Warped Mind club. 
Looks like a good place for gauges.
BUT WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO DO ABOUT THE CEL???? OH THE HUGE MANATEE!!!
Rather flatulent, apparently!
Junkyard score:
1 metal fan w/thermal clutch from an F150 to replace the cracked plastic one currently on the Lincoln.
Vacuum booster and master cylinder from a '95 Mustang
Driver's side manual seat from the same Mustang.
I was working on snagging the intake and valve covers from a '99 Mountaineer but I ran out of time. It had 230,000+ miles so I'll skip the heads.
Grand total spent:
$35.87
I love 1/2 price wednesday!
Total budget to date:
$908 (rounded up)
Looks like the SN95 base seats weigh about 35lbs each.
That's a potential 60lbs total that can be eliminated with hopefully very little effort.
I'm still debating whether I should cut the mounts off of the Mark VII seats and weld them onto the SN95 seats or swap the rails. A friend of mine just picked up a welder and offered to let me use it whenever I might need it.
Swap the rails. 4 bolts and you are done. Unless you want to just rework the wheel again.
I can't wait until my daughter is old enough to help me clean up my dirty car.
Old and busted:
Very busted:
New hotn...old and not busted:
'95 Mustang seat on the left, '87 Mark VII seat on the right.
Jayne peeking at me from inside his new fort.
Rail removed, Malcolm accelerating.
Mustang seat with MarkVII rail. It's about 15lbs heavier than it was (which is what I was trying to avoid) but still 15-20lbs lighter than the MarkVII seat.
After I snag a proportioning valve (oops, the mustang master cylinder has 2 lines and the Mark VII has 3) I'll swap out the TEVES system for a traditional booster/master cylinder set up. Since it's easier to get to the 4 nuts that hold the booster on with no seat in the way, I'll wait until that's done before plopping in the seat.
The seat will be a hybrid manual/power seat. It will have power movement fore and aft along with electrically controlled pitch of the base but manual tilt control of the back.
this is pretty berkeleying rad...keep it up!
In reply to 4cylndrfury:
Thanks!
The gauges literally just arrived when I returned with a passenger seat and a '94 Mustang GT proportioning valve.
Gauges = $22.90 (including shipping)
Prop. valve = $5
New total = $936 (rounded up)
It's getting awfully close to my original budget limit of $1,000 and I still don't have decent rear tires. I may have to set the budget a bit higher...
Pulled out the TEVES system.
Here it is next to the master cylinder and booster from the '95 Mustang. (I have the brake lines to connect the master cylinder to the proportioning valve.)
Lincoln proportioning valve. Kinda crusty down there!
Mustang proportioning valve.
That's probably it for today, I have to be at the daughter's school in about 15 minutes to pick her up.
Look carefully at the bolt spacing on the right side.
Compare to the bolt spacing on the vacuum booster, paying particular attention to this little berkeleyer.
Time to drill.
The car was running great yesterday as I gave the brakes a few short test stops then I reached over to turn on the interior light and it died.
Pasted from MarkVIIclub.org:
...and now my car will not start. I searched several times with different keywords but I didn't find anything that described my problem. A few came close but there were some differences. First, a bit of history: Soon after buying my Mark I changed out the battery cables because it looked like someone had hastily patched in a stereo system (I think) as there were 3 ground wires all leading to the battery terminal. Immediately after I changed the cables the car wouldn't start. It cranked over very quickly and was making compression, just out of the blue would not run. Grasping at straws I thought maybe the fuel pump had died so I shot some ether into the throttle body (I know bad, bad, bad) and it didn't do anything different. Then a light bulb in my head clicked on and I remembered the other two ground wires. I attached some eyelets and grounded them to the body. Voila, she roared to life.
I recently replaced the steering wheel, installed some Mustang front seats and today swapped my TEVES system for a traditional booster and master cylinder set up. It has been running great up until an hour or so ago. After the swap I was letting the car idle and pumping the pedal to check for leaks and I wanted to turn on the dome light. As soon as my thumb bumped the auto lamp control the wipers came on, both turn indicators in the dash lit up solid as well as the brights indicator, even though the headlights were not on, and the car died. Once again it's acting like there is no spark. I've checked the grounds and they are copacetic. I pulled fuses 7, 8, 12 and 16 to eliminate any non-essentials. I unplugged and removed the auto lamp control and the headlight switch. I unplugged the turn signal switch and tried it again only to see the same thing. Now the battery is getting low and my patience is getting thin. I'm going to go unplug the wiper control and try one last time before calling it a night.
On a positive note the brakes felt fanberkeleyingtastic!
You'll need to log in to post.
