Wow, I've really been slacking on my updates! To make up for it, here's "How I Spent My Xmas Vacation". 
To start with, I splurged a bit and bought something I absolutely did not need, but it just seemed wrong not to top off the engine with it.
Of course, now the stock plastic oil cap won't suffice, so I'll be buying something a bit more vintage looking.
I also picked up the gasket kit for the engine and a set of ARP head bolts. I still need to get the timing belt kit and oil pan gasket. I also have a POR-15 engine kit, as well as some chassis paint on the way.
For those just joining in, the stock oil pan on the Zetec is canted at an angle to cope with the stock slanted FWD mounting position. If I were just building a cruiser, that probably wouldn't pose any problems, but since this car will see some sustained G-loads at autocross, I didn't want to risk using the stock pan. There are aftermarket alternatives available for RWD Zetec installations - but they're upwards of $500-$600...for just a cast-aluminum oil pan! Of course, there are dry-sump kits available too, but they're closer to $2k, and I'm not sure I'd have the clearance for the external oil pump.
After doing a bit of research on the UK Ford forums, it seemed like an oil pan from a Ford CVH engine could be made to work with a bit of modification. I found a salvage yard on eBay selling brand new pans for a late-80's Escort/Lynx for $45-shipped, so I took a gamble.
The good news is the bolt holes all match, as do the arches at each end. The problem, as I'd also read online, is there's not quite enough clearance for the stock Zetec oil pump, which is mounted to the very front of the engine.
This is what it looked like when it first arrived.
After a bit of fiddling about, I determined there were 3-different locations of interference, so the easiest option seemed to be for me to cut the front of the pan off and move it forward about 1/4", then slope it back into the pan.
I have neither the skill nor the equipment to tig cast aluminum, so this was going to be a JB Weld job. In order to get the fitment correct and also prevent the JB Weld from leaking into anything important, I bought some Play-doh to sculpt between the oil pump and the pan, and to seal up the edges.
Once I had the cut out piece back in place, I used small dabs of JB Weld on the corners to hold it in place, then once it dried I removed the pan from the engine, and went to work with the JB Weld sealing everything up. This is the current status. I still need to build up the right side to try and match the existing support ribs, then make sure everything is sealed up on the inside. I might go over the outside again to smooth everything out as well. Then it will be time to fill it with water and see if it leaks!
While I was having fun with the JB Weld, I decided to tackle the water pump. The stock orientation points the outlet downward at a slight angle, which happens to interfere with the Europa frame. There have been several solutions, including custom water pumps, notching the frame, or cutting & re-welding the water pump outlet. I chose the latter, only utilizing JB Weld instead.
Here's a downward view of the stock waterpump housing.
And here's the result after a chop & glue job. I'll go around this with another coat as well to ensure it's strong enough and water-tight.
Next on the list:
I'm considering making a couple baffles for the oil pan, but I need to test-fit the oil pickup and determine how installation/removal of the pan will work, and thus where I'll be able to place the baffles.
I still need to smooth out the throttle-body to intake ports, as there is a bit of a lip. Then I can check the mating of the intake & exhaust to the new head, and see if I need to do any porting there.
Once the POR-15 kit arrives, I start prepping the block for paint. Then after that is complete, I'll pick up the few remaining gaskets and start assembly!
