Biscuit

I've always loved this generation Accord. What would it cost to K24 swap so that you can have an comfy reliable sedan but with that wonderful K series intake honk ?

In reply to dannyp84 :

Likely more than I'll ever spend on this car. I dont need any speed, and I don't want a loud exhaust. I'm fairly sure this is an F23A1, rated at 150hp, which is adequate. And unless it breaks in a bad way, the plan is just maintenance. If I mod it, I'll likely just stick to suspension. Maybe a stereo. 

In reply to barefootcyborg5000 :

That sounds sensible. Though I'd love to see someone build a tribute to the JACCS Accord (though I think that was an earlier generation). I'd be tempted to do some suspension and period correct wheels. Is there much difference between the F23 and the older H23?

In reply to dannyp84 :

I believe the H series were DOHC, while almost all the F are SOHC. I know there's a head swap that folks do, but I don't know details. Im more what you'd call an enthusiast rather than an encyclopedia. 

barefootcyborg5000 said:

In reply to dannyp84 :

Likely more than I'll ever spend on this car. I dont need any speed, and I don't want a loud exhaust. I'm fairly sure this is an F23A1, rated at 150hp, which is adequate. And unless it breaks in a bad way, the plan is just maintenance. If I mod it, I'll likely just stick to suspension. Maybe a stereo. 

I agree on the philosophy of function over fashion for this car.  As for the front bumper, I wouldn't do anything to it.  If the headlamp works, just leave it.  Is the lamp cracked at the bottom?  I see some discoloration or is that holding water?  If holding water, drill in some drain holes to the bottom of the lamp.  Water getting in can be bad but water having a good path to get out again can make it good again.  In the past, I've used plain ole house caulk to fill top cracks on headlamp housings that let water in from top but still add holes to bottom in case the caulk isn't enough.  Maybe some lens buffing to clear off the yellow/cloudiness.  

In your first posting you use the word beige but every picture this car looks silver with gray interior, unless it is your oppressive desert sun that makes it not look beige?  The interior looks great.  No real seat wear for near 200k.  

Job #1, assess the overal quality.  Is the engine a strong runner?  Is the trans good?  Is it worth the $2k investment you might be facing?  
Then:
Window repair
T-belt
AC repair
Struts and tires sort of go together because new tires on bad struts will make for bad tires very quickly.  I would go with some bottom basement struts.  Something just good enough.  That is if these struts are truely bad.  If they are not really bad, I'd might stay with the current struts. 
Tires: I wonder if used can be found?  But mounting can be so expensive these days pushing $100.  It can be foolish to save a little on tires and then still spend the same on mounting.  I might shop hard for some crap-brand but new.  

Also near tire time you should check the brakes.  Getting some fresh brakes on there is likely really cheap if you use crap-brand.  RockA has $20 rotors and sub $20 pads so with shipping, under $75 for fronts and same for backs but unless the backs are really crying, all your real stop action happens up front so start there.  

In reply to John Welsh :

That is almost exactly my order of operation. I need to get under it and take a good look, but driving and topside are both really good. Engine is strong, clutch is good, trans feels great. Struts even seem like they might be ok, at least the damping is good. The clunk could just as easily be something on the front bar. 
The window, fluids, plugs, as well as tires and front brakes are high priority. But due to time available and funds, I'll probably give it a thorough cleaning first. I may do a red crackly paint on the valve cover just because this is my first Honda to actually say VTEC on it. Gotta polish that turd  

Tallied up, I'm about $700 including tires and all struts, but without AC. Worst case is I muscle through this summer with the windows down, but once I move the mercury it shouldn't be an issue to get the air going too.

The bigger issue is getting it registered. I have every other Monday off, but the next one is a federal holiday, so I'm looking at nearly a month to get it tagged unless I can bribe my wife to go do that for me. That's a big ask. DMV. Gross.  
 

As for beige. The car is silver and the interior is a bluish gray. I used the term beige more in the broader sense. Boring. The opposite of fancy or exciting. 

Chapter 2. In which we vacuum and wipe down the biscuit. 
 

Before:

And after:

That was as good as it gets in the failing light with my trusty little wet vac and half a dozen baby wipes. 
Number 2 was helping

Ive started gathering parts, and I've confirmed the compressor does work, and it does cool the air beyond ambient. Hoping it just needs a proper charge which I should be able to test this weekend. 
Chapter 3 should be initial mechanical inspection, complete with commercial lift. 

Uhh, Houston, we have full commitment. Over..

And just like that, the mercury is sold and I'm insured and rolling. I haven't even checked the oil yet.

Safe to say, still fickle. 

barefootcyborg5000 said:

Looks great but that door sill key spot...

Does that open up 400kph or is that the on key for VTEC?

In reply to preach (dudeist priest) :

I'll pretend that's what it is. Maybe I'll dust off the old label maker... Cosmetic speed mods are a Honda thing after all. 

So jealous for a no nonsense daily like this!!  I'm also amazed by the seat fabric Honda used back then.  A 190k mile car with no tint and the interior looks almost new after a good cleaning.  My short lived '97 CRV was the same way.

After getting it in a good running state with A/C, I'd be tempted to start testing on it.  For example, it'd be a great car to learn how to tint windows on.  What free/cheap mods could I do to increase MPG's?  Can I make it much quieter with some home improvement store roofing peel and seal and a yard of carpet underlayment?  Not performance stuff, just things to make it a more comfortable daily.

-Rob

In reply to rob_lewis :

Not a bad plan. Tomorrow hopefully sees a few things sorted, brakes (Honda pads, house brand rotors), r134 (and dye, just in case) new oil in the trans, and an oil change. I'll get a good look while it's in the air and see where we're at. Hopefully plates early next week. I am excite. 
 

First good sign. Since the drive home is the first trip longer than 2 miles I figured I'd check the oil at least. Dirty, but not terrible. I'd say half life for conventional. And miraculously, right at the full mark. So there's that. 

Chapter 3. In which we lube the biscuit. 
 

We're currently pulling a vacuum, in preparation to properly charge and dye the AC. Trans juice is new, engine is lubricated, air filter changed. Didn't have time to swap brakes so that'll get pushed a week. I did discover a few leaks. 

So that's a bad rear main seal. 
 

that's a bad front crank seal. And a slightly lubricated belt, which will be addressed soon. 
 

And that's a bad LH axle seal. I'm assuming that's where 2/3 of my trans juice went because it was LOW. 
Also, the oil pan needs resealed too. The suspension bushings all look fair, but the right from strut is the clunker. Strut or mount I don't know yet. And the RR sway link is quite dead. 
 

We did find a timing belt sticker which if accurate means I'm within 2000 miles of needing a replacement anyway, so that's up high on my list. 
 

Overall, it's a project. But one I can drive and fix as I have time, or money to pay someone. Window reg is slated for arrival on Monday.

*edit. Aaaaaand, the high side needs a new schrader  valve. To be addressed another day. Hopefully a simple fix, but I don't have any on hand. 
 

*second edit. I'm past the point of my life where pulling drivetrain components on my daily seems like a good way to spend a weekend. My shop is beyond busy so hopes weren't high for one of my guys to be willing to work for cash on the side, but I found a willing soul. So hopefully by the end of next month we'll have all the seals and gaskets replaced. Now to decide if I want to replace what fees like a perfectly fine clutch...

Parts cannon loaded. We're talking crank seals at both ends, timing set w/ water pump, valve cover gaskets, cap rotor plugs, clutch kit and flywheel (Rear main leaks, and I'll be in there anyway and parts are so cheap...) axle seals on both sides, cam seal...

Hopefully it'll be nice and dry moving forward. 

And, registered. I've threatened before, but never actually followed through. Today though, today was the day. I paid for a custom plate. 
 

BISCT

let the innuendo commence. For example, later today I'll be installing a window regulator. The I'll be able to... 

wash the biscuit. 
 

Maybe we wax the biscuit later. Could buff the biscuit. When it gets low on fuel you can bet I'll fill the biscuit. If anyone wants to come out and inspect the biscuit, you're more than welcome. I'll even let y'all drive the biscuit. We could even ride the biscuit 5 at a time.

Hopefully, though, I don't put in all this work and smash the biscuit. 
 

I am a child. 

In reply to barefootcyborg5000 :

I volunteer to do an oil change for you, so I can say I lubed that biscuit.

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

We just lubed it Saturday, but it needs a tune up. So you could plug the biscuit. 

barefootcyborg5000 said:

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

We just lubed it Saturday, but it needs a tune up. So you could plug the biscuit. 

Now I feel bad, because I see upthread where you already lubed the biscuit. Maybe next time she needs a wash I can come out and hose that biscuit?

barefootcyborg5000 said:

It's nice and clean now, but the passenger side mat is still backwards!

I like the car. I was looking for an older manual Civic / Accord before I purchased my current daily, but unfortunately in Ontario used Hondas either maintain their value or rust out, no in-between.

In reply to WondrousBread :

The mat is backwards for a reason. There's something sticky and red stuck in it, so it's backwards to hide the mess/ keep it from getting worse. 
One must keep their biscuit presentable. 

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

You're welcome to come hose my biscuit any time!

In other news, the AC is charged and working for now, and the window is once again well-regulated. 
Old and broke:

Now we're self supported and mobile:

Which means I need to address the tape. There's a nasty residue all over my biscuit, inside and out. 

barefootcyborg5000 said:

In reply to WondrousBread :

One must keep their biscuit presentable. 

Presentable Biscuits are a thing

Man. I would love to find an automatic 4 door version to give my wife. Her 96 is her favorite car ever. 

We have new shoes. And a trunk full of parts. I did get a quick exterior wash, which revealed one spot of slight surface rash that had been hiding under years of road dust. Parking stickers have been transferred from the mgm (sold to MIL) and we should be on for resealing the trans and rear main next sat.

Engine light said "cam position sensor" which I'm fairly sure is a function of the distributor(?) which is not at all surprising considering the amount of oil coating the thing from the valve cover. But the code was cleared and hasn't returned after 3 days... The refrigerant seems to be staying put too which is really nice. 
 

The suspension clunk has been determined to come from the front right strut/mount, and the right rear sway link has let go too. Local Napa has front quick struts in stock so I think that's the easy button right now. Neither are terribly pressing given my short commute and our reasonable roads. Soon though. 
 

Other than that, I can report a broken CD player  which is kind of becoming a signature move for me. I'm starting to get curious what it might take to make the power glass roof do things again. And maybe tonight I apply one of the grm stickers in my stash. Still contemplating a proper "jdm, yo" sticker bomb on the front fender.

Struts:

There is a Parts Authority (PA) location in St George. PA is Rock Auto (RA) or RA is PA, whatever.  I have a PA location in my town too and I generally get RA prices but cash and carry, no wait, no shipping charge. 

I see RA has some no name $40 loaded struts and $100 gets you good names.  https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/honda,1998,accord,2.3l+l4,1315583,suspension,strut+/+coil+spring+/+mount+assembly,15174

You might have to reference a commercial account but you can use mine. Its a cash and carry account deliberately so you can't charge anything to the account. 

PM sent with account info