Step 18:
I decided I wanted a more competition look so I sanded all four tires down with 120 grit dry. Gumball slicks are the easiest to do this with as you can do the sidewalls was well, but I left the sides alone.
Step 18:
I decided I wanted a more competition look so I sanded all four tires down with 120 grit dry. Gumball slicks are the easiest to do this with as you can do the sidewalls was well, but I left the sides alone.
Step 19:
Now I can start working on the wheels. I want to leave the lips chrome, so I'm going to leave the wheels on the sprue tree to paint (as it makes it easier). First, a coat of gloss black in-between the spokes. Note that I use Model Master Acryl, which is a water-based paint. I love water-based paints for models as they dry much faster and aren't as "thick", so they don't obscure as much detail.
Step 20:
Our chassis is now completely painted. Make sure to let any sprayed parts gas out for a few hours before bringing them in. Next we'll add some detail.
Step 21:
First I applied a black "wash" on the rear portion. A wash is done with ink or watered down acryl and sinks to all of the recesses, adding visual depth. This is very easy to do and takes no time at all.
Step 22:
The wheel backs are now totally painted front and back. We just have to finish up the wheels themselves and we can glue together our wheels and tires.
Need to get going on the miata model I have... (Tamiya)
After that.. I need to grab the balsa locost (1/8th scratch build, no kit) and get back to work on it.
Good/interesting models are hard to find.. good small hobby shops are a dieing breed sadly. Need to start going online.
Nice thread! Makes me want to crack open the VW GTI kit I bought to ape my old MKII. Silly Putty! Brilliant! can you explain how to make that wash you use for weathering? just add water to acrylic paint? how is it applied? by brush?
I buy the wash (as it's pretty cheap at the hobby store), but yes, you can make your own by watering down some water-based acryl paint. You want the consistency of milk.
By the way, I had to stop painting the body due to the cold. We'll see how progress goes. If I can get one sunny afternoon...
Javelin wrote: In reply to friedgreencorrado: The dowel trick is indeed a useful one. Most modelers do that with a dremel as the motor, so they can vary the speed way down low.
Oh, man! A Dremel would be perfect for 1/24 or 25. Gah, I guess my brain is still thinking of 1/12. Apologies for the tangent. Carry on!
As a kid I did a Miller Light Funny car and thought to sand the rear tires with 220 to make them look like they just did a burnout.
I had a few seasoned entrants ask me how I made them look so real. I felt pretty cool as I was about 12 years old. Hmmmm, seems like a great way to get my 9 year old son who thinks he's Harry Potter to turn his attention to the wonders or the automotive world!
Great Thread!
Weekend #2:
(I actually did a teeny little bit of this through the week, but I just didn't have any time to upload and post).
First, I added some black to the chassis bars on the interior and frame.
Then I started on a coat of Leather for the seats.
Followed by a second coat of Leather and some Red on the fire bottle.
Back to the wheels, where I used metalizing lacquer in Gunmetal on the spokes to create that nice, flat look (left) compared to just a coat of gloss Gunmetal (right).
Finished up all of the wheels.
A dollop of Gloss White in the center caps finishes our paintwork on the wheels.
Clip the wheels off of the sprue then use sandpaper to lightly sand off the remaing nubs on the sides. Tip - sand the backs of the wheels as well, as model cement doesn't work on the chrome plating. Pop the wheel backs into our sanded tires, and we are ready for glue and the wheels.
Repeat that process four times, and we have a completed set of rolling stock.
Glue a single wheel to each axle, insert in the chassis pan, and then glue the opposing wheel on. I absolutely glue all the wheels at once so I can lay the car down and get the wheels to set evenly. There's nothing worse than a teeter-tottering model car with 2 wheels in the air! I adjusted this a little as it dried to ensure it still rolled.
The body was drying flat last weekend because it was too cold. You can always bring the body inside to warm up, and run the spray paint under warm tap water, but when the ambient hits the 40's, there's not much you can do.
Luckily today was in the high 50's, and painting in the direct sunlight brought our paint job back to life!
A few hours to outgas and dry later, we can bring the body in for more work.
That gets this thread up to date real-time now.
Anybody still interested?
Yes, absolutely. I've been following along. Love your attention to detail, like the scuffing of the tyres to appear worn. The paint's looking brilliant, too. Do go on!
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