I'm glad that not only some of you are watching, but that you're actually going to build! Cool!
I'm glad that not only some of you are watching, but that you're actually going to build! Cool!
Sunday catch-ups:
I then went back to the dash and painted the insides of the gauges (faces) Gloss White. At this point I also glued in the chrome fuel and oil fillers (they go in from the bottom on this kit).
In the actual interior tub, I glued in the rollbar after painting it Chrome, and glued in the chrome plated shifter, after which I painted the ball knob Gloss White. Tip: it's really difficult to paint the shift knob on the sprue or loose, I always paint the shift knob after the shifter is in and dry.
Out interior tub is now complete.
I then glued in the taillights (from the back) and the rear diff grill. We'll come back and detail paint these later.
Test fit! At this point we are able to test-fit the major assemblies. This is an extremely important step. I'd say close to 40% of models actually don't fit right at this point and you'll have to trim something to get everything to play nice together correctly. It's also something of a motivation boost, as we can now see how cool it will look finished.
Had I been super-detailing (as opposed to a "box stock" build), I would have made mesh screens for the engine holes, or rigged up a plate and made velocity stacks to be seen through them. (Just ideas for when you want to take things further).
That gets us caught up to live again (sorry I took the pics and didn't post, some game was on that I caught up in watching 
). I'll try to update if I do any weeknight work, but no guarantees.
As an aside, it takes twice as long to build a model car when you have to take pictures and make posts! I've never done in-progress shots before, it's been fun.
Then we paint the taillights with Stop Light Red Metallic and use some Black Ink on the rear grill.
Give the steering wheel rim a coat of Wood, but drag the brush over the paint before it dries to "grain" the surface.
While the paint dries we glue the headlights on.
Time to prepare the "glass". Note that clear plastic is actually a different compound and is both much stiffer, and less pliable than the other plastic. Do NOT use side-cutters or pliers to remove the glass from the tree! It will cause cracks. The safest way is to slowly score the joint with a new blade until you break through.
Now we can put a coat of Leather on the wheel rim using the same dragging technique to give a "woodgrain" look.
Then we glue on the clear components. Do NOT use plastic cement or super glue for this! Both will cause the clear plastic to "fog", ruining it. I use Elmer's white glue. Testor's and others make a clear plastic adhesive as well.
Now we are almost there! Glue the steering wheel and cockpit into the body along with the rear-view mirror.
And finally, glue the chassis to the body. We have a complete model!
Only one item left now, time to install the water slide decals. Cut them out one at a time using an X-Acto blade. Use a small, shallow tub for the warm water. Soak one decal at a time and it when it starts to curl at the edges or move on the backing sheet you can take it out and place it on the car. Slide the backing sheet out from under the decal carefully. Use a wet finger or tweezers to position the decal. When you are happy with the decal placement, dab the water off carefully with a dry cloth.
Large decals and compound curves are the hardest. You can buy "Decal Set" in the paint section, it's a clear coat designed to hold the decals down. You can also cut tiny relief holes with the blade.
And we're done! Beauty shot time:
Looks good. Now do we watch as you blow it up with firecrackers?
In reply to jimbob_racing:
75% of the models I built as a teenager met that fate
In reply to Javelin:
GR8 job Javelin
Do you guys want to see another one?
Noice! I should give curbsides more respect. Of course, I don't because I'm one of those folks that does better adding mechanical details. IOW, I can't paint worth a E36 M3. I can stretch melted sprue for wires & stuff, I can carve up beer cans to keep from buying photo-etch stuff, but I still "orange peel" everything I build.
Another one would be good, especially if you'll be my bodywork painting sensei..
Nice.
I'd like to see another. Preferably another old racing car, or something obscure.
Yes! Keep building them. It's fun to enjoy the process vicariously.
Let's see another! That turned out pretty well!
Cool! Okay, we'll do another.
Any requests?
Javelin wrote: Cool! Okay, we'll do another. Any requests?
I made a model once of my POS RX7. Complete with rust, dashboard cracks, primer, missing door lock, the whole bit. Maybe it would be fun if you did a detailed model of a car you own? Mine didn't turn out the best, but the real car wasn't that great either.
Joey
Hmm, I've done the "weathered" car bit before, but I haven't yet built a model of what one of my cars actually looked like. I have a Miata model with a hardtop that I can make like my white one. It would still be sans engine, though.
Not sure about the "car you own" thing (even though it sounds fun) but I would really appreciate a build of something that you detail.
BTW, I blame you for reawakening my interest in building model cars. At least if I stay away from Pocher kits it might work out cheaper than playing with real cars 
.
Sweet, I would have interest in seeing another one too.
Yes, another. I'm trying to motivate myself.
My #1 contender at the moment:
Thoughts?
(1969 Mercury Cougar Eliminator 428CJ)
Javelin wrote: Cool! Okay, we'll do another. Any requests?
Back in the 1970's I built a few Peterbilt Trucks.
Yes.
Pop had a '67 289 3-spd (not XR7)
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