Clapped Out Garage - Projects and such

Easy enough to make the slots bigger while the router is still out and i haven't cleaned up the sawdust.

I'm finally getting around to ordering parts for the rebuild. I want to make sure I am reading the parts diagram correctly. Both highlighted parts are the apex seal springs (short and long)? They would be $20 cheaper for the set through Mazda Motorsports compared to the Adkins set. 

Sure seems like it!  That's what they look like and where they go!  Haha.

2mm apex seals have two springs each, a long and a short.

3mm seals (pre 1986 junk) have one spring each and they seem to bend with any amount of run time.

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

I just wanted to double check since the mazda part catalog descriptions aren't always the most clear. Those were the only ones I couldn't cross directly from Atkins.

A few photos of the rallycross were posted today, thanks to photographer Scott Zimmerman. 

where source?

btw -epic roostertails punctuated by explosions

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

Only on facebook.

In other news, placed an expensive order for parts this morning. Now to get the parts washer filled and stuff cleaned up. 

I spent some time today hanging bodywork on the front of the 323. It still needs some massaging to get things lined up but it gives me an idea of what needs to move where. I also need to get some body clips to attach the bumper cover. 

The latest mistake to grace the Clapped Out Driveway. 

Unsure of plans yet. The first step is to get it running which starts with removing the carb, the throttle is seized. 

I know of a match for $800... probably not what you want to know.

I see that as a huge anti-mistake. 

chandler said:

I know of a match for $800... probably not what you want to know.

Go on...

Convert it into a sedan delivery!

also: yeet

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

John England said I should make it a wagon.

I pulled the carb on the Ranchero today. Both sets of throttle plates are stuck, the primary throttle shaft was stuck just slightly open. 

There is some rust in the intake manifold. I'm assuming the right thing to do here is pull the manifold and clean out all the rust instead of just vacuuming up any loose flakes and trying to clean it on the engine. 

I hosed the parts of the carb down with penetrating oil. I'll keep at it to see if I can get the throttle shafts moving before I decide if I should rebuild this carb or get something else. 

I decided to replace the brake master cylinder reservoir grommets on the 323 today so it would stop leaking brake fluid.

I was trying very hard to remove it without damaging the reservoir.

Guess what broke?

Yep, the berkeleying reservoir.

I found the spare Miata brake master reservoir that I have and confirmed that the spacing on the ports is the same. It is a different shape but should work. I am not going to try to install it today since I have broken everything I have tried to fix in the past few days. 

I finished up the seal tray, and messed up quite a bit when I couldn't see and the E36 M3ty plastic router adjusted itself and I went through the plywood. It will still work. I realized as I was loading it up with seals that I didn't need to make 3 slots for apex seals around every rotor. Oh well, bonus slots. 

I also mounted a LED light on the ceiling so there is more visibility for putting the engine together. Now for a lot of cleaning. I decided to test my parts washer pump before filling up the tank and it is not pumping. Guess I'll go with plan 2 which is using lots of solvent and brake cleaner. 

Time for some cleaning. 

First up is this degreaser from Spray Nine. I have had good luck with it in the past on heavy grease and oil, not sure how it will do on the carbon.

Spray it on and watch the grease melt away...

Well, maybe not so much. After a bit of scrubbing it wasn't terrible but it has a hard time on the stubborn carbon build up. 

Next up is an assortment of random solvents pulled from boxes in the engine room. 

The Aviation Degreaser works the quickest on the carbon but it flashes off very quickly. The brake cleaner isn't quite as aggressive but the overspray stays in the bottom of the tub so I can dip the brush in and work on the tough sections. 

About this point I realized that I had removed enough of the carbon that the stuck side seal springs would come out so I took it back to the table and put them in the tray. I have all new springs but might as well keep these ones organized for now. 

A plastic scraper on the carbon helps get most of of the buildup off, making the cleaning go a little quicker. 

I also need to order at least one new corner seal. 

Question for the rotary people (Pete). Are solid corner seals worth it or should I just order one complete seal and 11 rubber inserts so the rest are fresh? $69 for solid vs $27 for one seal and fresh inserts. 

I assume for a stock rebuild the solid aren't going to be worth the money. 

Solid seals are more likely to break because of the built in stress risers.   That is why Mazda went to the rounded design with a rubber plug.

I used the rubber plugs exactly once.  They're a pain in the ass and mainly only good for starting.  If you do use them, and drive at high RPM a lot, you will find that they will all be missing the next time you have a peek in there.

I probably have a good used one kicking around.  The bridge ported motor had one broken corner seal so I replaced all twelve.

So just the one replacement seal then?

Edit, just saw your edit. I'll hold off on ordering for now since it won't ship till Monday anyway.

I will probably be borrowing a rental for the weekend so I should still be able to come down and assist.

You will need four O-rings for the dowel pins, I would like to say they are size #114 but I forget.  They're a standard size, for sure.

Right Stuff, not RTV.  One tube is generally enough for one engine.

Some sort of thick assembly lube.

Rob Zombie.