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peanutpckrupper
peanutpckrupper Reader
2/11/24 9:09 a.m.

Dang that sucks. 

If you're trying to stay cheap, it might be cheaper to buy an engine from a Lincoln Aviator to chuck in there instead of tearing it down to have the heads rebuilt. 

ZombieSurf
ZombieSurf New Reader
2/12/24 3:44 p.m.
nakmuayfarang said:

I hope you get this back on the road.  That interior looks mint and I love the warbly sound these 32v cobra engines make.  

It's a miracle that the interior looks the way it does. I think it has to do with how the car was parked in it's previous resting place: The house was north facing, and the car was backed right up against the garage. I think this kept the sun off the interior for the most part. I live across the street (south facing) so my driveway get's blasted by the sun all day.

The paint and all exterior plastic on the other hand is smoked. You can see the interior shot that the hood has quite the patina on it. Not the good kind of patina though unfortunately. I touched the plastic cowl panel and it pretty much turned to dust. 

Thanks for the encouragement - looking like I'm going to need it lol

Apexcarver
Apexcarver MegaDork
2/12/24 3:51 p.m.

In reply to ZombieSurf :

Thankfully most of the exterior plastic is the same as a V6 model. But also, you can get a new one for just $120 here https://lmr.com/products/94-04-Mustang-Cowl-Vent-Covers-Components

 

 

ZombieSurf
ZombieSurf New Reader
2/12/24 3:57 p.m.

In reply to Apexcarver :

When I turn the crank bolt (clockwise) the large timing gear is rotating the exhaust cam, but the smaller gear on the intake side is completely frozen. The shorter chain that connects the 2 together is not turning. 

Once the weather clears up I'm going to peel back the next layer on this onion. No idea what I'll find at this point, but I'm not stressing. All I really have invested at this point is time and knuckle skin. 

 

 

ZombieSurf
ZombieSurf New Reader
2/12/24 4:45 p.m.

In reply to peanutpckrupper :

I love the idea of chucking a new engine in there. Specifically the "chucking" part because that indicates it'll be quick and easy, right? /sarcasm

Full disclosure: I have never swapped an engine or had any machining done for a project, but I'm excited to explore either. 

Here's what I have at my disposal: Time, tools, optimism, and a limited but not bare bones budget.

Here's what a don't have at the moment: an engine lift

There are a plethora of videos on YT of removing and tearing down the heads so I'm headed in that direction first. 

Question: Once the heads are off should I use a surface coat on the now exposed metal? I'm doing this in my uncovered driveway for now. Any other tips for someone diving in head first are welcome! 

ZombieSurf
ZombieSurf New Reader
2/12/24 4:49 p.m.
Apexcarver said:

In reply to ZombieSurf :

Thankfully most of the exterior plastic is the same as a V6 model. But also, you can get a new one for just $120 here https://lmr.com/products/94-04-Mustang-Cowl-Vent-Covers-Components

I ordered one last week off Rock Auto for around the same price, but I'm picking up that hardware kit for sure!

*edit to add that the glue on my "new" cowl from Rock Auto is dried out and the rubber strips need to be re-stuck down if anyone has a favorite flavor of double sided tape. 

peanutpckrupper
peanutpckrupper Reader
2/13/24 7:34 a.m.
ZombieSurf said:

In reply to peanutpckrupper :

I love the idea of chucking a new engine in there. Specifically the "chucking" part because that indicates it'll be quick and easy, right? /sarcasm

Full disclosure: I have never swapped an engine or had any machining done for a project, but I'm excited to explore either. 

Here's what I have at my disposal: Time, tools, optimism, and a limited but not bare bones budget.

Here's what a don't have at the moment: an engine lift

There are a plethora of videos on YT of removing and tearing down the heads so I'm headed in that direction first. 

Question: Once the heads are off should I use a surface coat on the now exposed metal? I'm doing this in my uncovered driveway for now. Any other tips for someone diving in head first are welcome! 

Honestly I'd rather pull the engine than pulling the heads in-car, but I get it. 

No real need for coating the surfaces, the block and heads are aluminum. 

Apexcarver
Apexcarver MegaDork
2/13/24 8:12 a.m.

In reply to peanutpckrupper :

Yeah, but the cams and stuff are steel. 

WD40 and wrap it in plastic.

peanutpckrupper
peanutpckrupper Reader
2/13/24 8:31 a.m.
Apexcarver said:

In reply to peanutpckrupper :

Yeah, but the cams and stuff are steel. 

WD40 and wrap it in plastic.

He's taking the heads off, I assumed they would be going to a machine shop. 

Apexcarver
Apexcarver MegaDork
2/13/24 9:19 a.m.

In reply to peanutpckrupper :

But the rings/etc...  

ZombieSurf
ZombieSurf New Reader
2/16/24 9:55 a.m.

After reaching into the depths of the internet to try and devise a plan for the Estate Sale Cobra, I had to ask myself, "why am I going to attempt to fix this car in the most painful way possible?".

The emotion of finally getting my mitts on my neighbors poor neglected car is also starting to wear off. I'm starting to think rationally again. 

Everything I have read says pull the engine, even if I'm "only" doing the heads. You guys confirmed that as well. Apparently just to do it in the car I would need to unbolt the motor mounts and lift/tilt the engine to remove the heads. 

So while I methodically disassemble the engine bay of this car I am also shopping for a replacement motor (and trans?). Ebay is looking pretty picked over but I'm in no hurry. I'm in Southeast NC by the way. I'm focused on Ford, 4 valve motors.

With my "will it run" dreams behind me, I'm shifting to a more holistic approach with the Cobra and this thread. 

The very first thing I did upon pulling the car into my driveway was remove who knows how many years of leaves that had basically turned to sludge from the cowl and below the rear glass, under the deck lid. There was about an inch of water in the drivers footwell and a half inch in the spare tire area from leaks. 

We just got a ton of rain and I'm glad to report that both leaks are fixed for now, even with the old crumbling plastic cowl still on the car. 

The windows operate and the radio works. The MACH 460 sound system sounds great but I'm no audiophile. Overall the inside of this car is remarkably clean considering the condition of the outside and engine.

I'm giving myself a year to get this car back on the road. If I can't do it in a year, it will take longer laugh

 

MonstersHouse81
MonstersHouse81 New Reader
2/16/24 10:39 a.m.

Where you at in NC?  I'm over in Coats, if not too far, I can bring my engine lift and some floor jacks

Apexcarver
Apexcarver MegaDork
2/16/24 10:42 a.m.

https://www.car-part.com/

has a few of them.   Its kind of a clearing house for junkyards to list stuff. 

 

I havent gone down the rabbit hole of what all it would take, but...  you might be prime for Coyote swapping it...   Newer engine, much more power and parts availability...

ZombieSurf
ZombieSurf New Reader
2/16/24 1:42 p.m.

In reply to MonstersHouse81 :

Thank you for the very generous offer! I'm in the Wilmington area.

I think I sourced a lift that I can borrow locally, but thanks again! 

ZombieSurf
ZombieSurf New Reader
2/16/24 2:04 p.m.
Apexcarver said:

https://www.car-part.com/

has a few of them.   Its kind of a clearing house for junkyards to list stuff. 

 

I havent gone down the rabbit hole of what all it would take, but...  you might be prime for Coyote swapping it...   Newer engine, much more power and parts availability...

Oh wow that website is an incredible resource. Just found a 2003 Aviator engine in town for $1200! 

For my first swap I'm trying to stick with the same engine going back in, but yea, Coyotes are awesome. 

Apexcarver
Apexcarver MegaDork
2/16/24 3:19 p.m.

In reply to ZombieSurf :

Yeah, that site is great. Back more than 10 years ago, I got an engine for my NA miata for less than $1k that had <60k on it. More recently, I backed into my sister in laws car with my expedition and stove in the back door of it, broken glass, etc. Damage was limited to the door, thankfully. Got another door, in the same color, within 24 hours, within a less than hour drive, and installed it myself the next day. Even throwing in a brand new car battery to make her better than she started I know I saved a crap ton of money over a Body $hop, not to mention time...

Noddaz
Noddaz PowerDork
2/17/24 9:57 a.m.

Question for you Ford guys and this cars engine.

Can ZombieSurf pull the timing cover and chains, the cam towers and camshafts and then do a compression test to check for bent valves?  In theory, with the chains and cams removed all the valves should be closed.  And a compression test would determine if any are bent before going further.  Or is this a waste of time because valves are bent.

Wait, if the cam, chains and towers were removed, a straight edge across the valve stems would show if valve(s) were held open by being bent also.

Apexcarver
Apexcarver MegaDork
2/17/24 10:18 a.m.

In reply to Noddaz :

Like I said, I haven't gotten that deep in one to take it apart, but it's an interference engine and he's heard it tapping loud and seen the cam not moving...

Noddaz
Noddaz PowerDork
2/17/24 11:44 a.m.

In reply to Apexcarver :

Understood.  And I am curious why the intake cam is not turning.  

DrMikeCSI
DrMikeCSI Reader
2/18/24 2:03 p.m.

In reply to Noddaz :

A compression test requires a functional valve train. Might be able to do a leak down test. 

RacingComputers
RacingComputers Reader
2/18/24 6:01 p.m.

Following

 

Good Luck

ZombieSurf
ZombieSurf New Reader
3/10/24 6:54 p.m.

Cobra Update: The car is put back together and tools are put away. 

 

I have been offered a trade for a running and driving example of new edge mustang, and I intend to accept the offer if I can get over one final hurdle: taking legal ownership of the Cobra. 

 

PO is responsive to my messages but still has not applied for the duplicate title as far as I know (original physical title is lost) 

 

I'm gently nudging PO to get down to the tag and title place and apply for a duplicate title. Edit: Apparently he needs to fill out a MVR-4 form and get it notarized then drop it at the tag and title place in person. His day off is tomorrow. I'm about to send him a message now. Fingers crossed for some movement this week.
 

The car itself is buttoned up awaiting the next step. I gave it good scrub and power wash last week. Interior is bone dry. 

ZombieSurf
ZombieSurf New Reader
3/29/24 10:13 a.m.

Big day today for the Cobra. Turns out, the busted motor is the least of this car's issues, the main problem being that PO doesn't actually own the car, his bank does.

PO is coming over today, and we are going to call his bank to pay off his 10-years defaulted loan, together, so they will release the title.

The story went from "yes I have the title", to "I lost the physical title and need to get a duplicate", to "I need to contact the bank because there's an issue", to me contacting a friend at the DMV to find out that he never paid off the loan and had been hiding from the repo man for a decade. 

Before I got to the last step I offered to meet him with my notary friend and help him with the duplicate title paperwork. Unsurprisingly he didn't want to do that. 

That really closes the loop in my mind on how this car ended up at his parent's estate sale. He was hiding it there. 

I have not given this dude a penny yet, thank goodness, as the deal has always been that he get's paid when I get the title (which tells me he knew exactly what was going on since the beginning, but didn't want to tell me). 

Hoping we get one step closer to wrapping this up today!!! Still a great deal even with all the extra effort when I get my mitts on that title.

 

peanutpckrupper
peanutpckrupper Reader
3/29/24 10:25 a.m.

In reply to ZombieSurf :

Wow what a fiasco

golfduke
golfduke Dork
3/29/24 11:38 a.m.

jeez, happy you didn't waste money on the Parts Cannon for a car that you effectively couldn't own.  Sounds like a bullet dodged for sure! 

 

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