FrankenFerrari - V12 Ferrari 308

I got the inlet to fit into the car but its ovaling quite a bit when I force it in so the shape is not really right and not leaving quite enough room for the filter.  This one I buggered a bit when I was making it and I ended up grinding, bondoing and reglassing to get it decent....but it was now too wide so I split it to cut out a section and took the opportunity to clean up the inside and realized I could remove all the bondo from the inside leaving a smooth light shell the correct shape, you can kind of see the rings that are left in the top pic.  That gave my the path on how to fix the filter fitting and I added bondo to the side where I saw there was space between the inlet and filter, then I'll sand and glass over it, then grind it out from the inside, then put the halves back together, then a layer of glass on the inside and stuff the inlet in place before it hardens. 

Easy, what could possibly go wrong? 

I realized the whole trying to flex it and coat the inside was just plain silly so what I  did was trim the halves until they fit then built up the outside where I could now that it was trimmed to clear the tiny spots.

Then glass over the bondo

then flip them over and grind the bondo back out from the inside...its pretty obvious where it is so I grind though the original glass and stop when I hit the new glass

Making them reshaped and bondo free

Then put the halves back together and smooth it out and its better than the first 1. Making the plug the right shape to begin with would have been a lot easier but....

Now I need to mount the filter so I'm making glass adapter plates the that will fit the back of the housing which I will screw to the back of the filters and attach to the housings with clip-on nuts and screws which should make pulling the filter to clean pretty easy.  Haven't quite decided how to attache the the car yet....probably just glue with a few screws for security as they shouldn't need to come out very often

Not so bad....should have bought black filters but I guess they'll be black soon enough

They really will go dark gray quickly processing that much air, but look fine. Now if they started K&N pink, that would be ugly.

In reply to TurnerX19 :

Yeah, pink would be horrible...which made me realize the color comes from the oil and they sell red, blue, black oil so I will have black filters first re-oil.

Little things today.  made the filter adapter for the driver's side and got everything paints.  Then passenger sir side My son had started the duct so I got the 2 pieces he made fitting glued together and started reshaping a bit.  Then I thought I would start adding the duct openings to the air box but got distracted when I remembered I never finished the inside....the OEM casting is curved so I welded in a 1/2 plate to have plenty of meet but never trimmed it do so that was todays work.  I took about a 1/4" out in the middle on the mill (making it a proper race part I believe) then sanded it to look decent.  So tomorrow I'll add the dust openings.

Today I added a flange to the lower 1/2 of the air box to align the 2 halves and sort of seal it.

Then made and installed flanges to mount the duct, cut the openings in and started the clean up work, still another hour or 2 for grinding and sanding but its starting to look like something useful

Preview

Sanded to brighten it up

On the engine...I like it more than i thought I would because its got both a QV and TR feel to it...and that it's done.

2nd duct pkug is nearly ready to glass too

Nice work!

Added a bondo bung to the duct to mount an air temp sensor then painted it.

Then made the 2nd duct

This time I used almost no spray foam...just green foam and 90 minute drywall mud so I tied acetone for tge foam and pressure washed the mud ....just a little of the paint let in there but I don't think I care.

It was a long day  and I'll start with this.

Sadly still more concept that fact.  Why concept?  Well, there is no way to assemble it and I had to cut a hole in duct 2 to make it fit

The crisis before that was the passenger side didn't fit the plenum and needed to be reworked

while doing that in a rush the wiz-wheel nearly took my head off when it broke...didn't think much off it until I noticed in in the ceiling and wall about 20 ft away.

And when I actually looked as the 1st duct I realized I really hadn't spent the prop time it needed and had to re-do that and repaint it.

The passenger duct issue seems to be a little that its bigger than the plug but also that the flange on the airbox is about 1/4" higher than my tape was holding the plug and together it doesn't fit.  The plan it to put so mud inside with a bit of foam going through it and reform the problem section but that will need to keep a week or so as my time has run out and I have other stuff to attend to this week.

I'm thinking the easiest way to solve the assembly issue is the just cut the ducts back and 3D print couplers.  I my even get fancy and put o-rings in them so nothing cranks as the engine moves around.  Right now the flanges are loose slip fits which lets things move but obviously means they leak.

Big Rig truck suppliers may have bellows sections that you could use to allow for engine rock

https://bisonparts.co.uk/product/air-filter-bellows-pipe-corrugated-round-24669 

In reply to Rigante :

Something off the shelf would be wonderful, I'll look a bit.

There are rubbery 3D resins too, not real rubber but 50-100% elongation that I could make bellows or couplings from but I hadn't been thinking that way until you mentioned bellows.

The engine movement shouldn't be a big concern.  The original V8 is flat plane and vibrates (shakes might be a better word) quite a bit so ferrari used pretty fancy mounts with actual springs in them to let it bounce around to its heart content but I don't have those anymore.  I switched to TR mounts that were designed for a very smooth running flat 12 which seemed better for the equally smooth V12 and let me get rig of the stock torque arm on top of  as they are quite solid...not actually solid but I don't think the engine can move more than about 1-2mm....the rubber just isn't thick enough to allow more I don't think.  So I expect a little vibration at the connections more than motion...at least that is what I'm planning (hoping?) for.  

The duct to filler connection is rubber so that should be fine.

I know that there are, or at least were, generic orange bellows available, they were used on Group 4 Audi airboxes and I was a little surprised to discover that they were off the shelf parts.

Still screwin around with the duct.  Filled it back in with foam and mud so i could reshape it and now it fits with a full 1/4"clearance

Also added another bondo bung for the crankcase vent but added glass this time thinking it will be stronger but horrible to work with.

A little prime and i remember why i hate body work so much...im terrible at it

Forgot, here's how the bung turned out

They look great to me!

A textured or wrinkle finish would hide that nicely.

SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) said:

A textured or wrinkle finish would hide that nicely.

Just annoyed there are so many pinholes.  I slathered it with spot putty, which softened the primer so now waiting for it to be hard enough to sand.  All the oem glass parts are smooth satin black which I kind of wanted to match....but wrinkle is a good fallback plan.

Time to test the deck lid...hmmm....it doesn't actually touch, maybe 0.03"clearance.  I checked and I can probably lower the engine mounts another 0.06" or 0.09" and can take 0.06"-0.09" off the bottom of the lid in the offending area.  I think it's ok....ish

Oh, and I shortened the ducts a little and relocated the throttle actuator a bit and now it assembles fine. I need to clean up the dust in the shop then it's time to pull the engine.

If the motor torques in the mounts are you good?

TurboFource said:

If the motor torques in the mounts are you good?

why would it torque? 

No, its not ok the way it is.  The TR mounts I installed are stiff but not that stiff. I measured the engine to frame clearance and its just shy of 1/4" so I have no worries about removing another 1/16" while its out.  Then 1/16 or 3/32 off the bottom of the lid before I install it and I have matching 3/16" clearance top and bottom and that should be fine. ..should

Now that the glass and bondo is done I cleaned the shop....with the leave blower.  It did a surprisingly good job.