Thats a tough call - I would hate to see the sealant goober up the oil control rings. What happens at combustion temps with the sealant? Doesnt take much to gum up a ring (especially the low tension oil control ones). Hopefully a non issue. :)
Thats a tough call - I would hate to see the sealant goober up the oil control rings. What happens at combustion temps with the sealant? Doesnt take much to gum up a ring (especially the low tension oil control ones). Hopefully a non issue. :)
In reply to Kendall_Jones :
hopefully that didn't happen. 
Between snow and letting myself get distracted thinking about the Lincoln project it was not a very productive weekend. I finished filtering coolant, finished cleaning old sealant off heads and bolted the cams in...timing cover next weekend I guess.
Ok, enough screwing around, Lincoln pushed back into the corner to wait its turn...i may need to put a cover on it so I stay focused.
I've been dragging my feet on the timing cover because additional action was required. The last time I assembled I realized once the gasket was glued and most everything torqued that I had bolt location issue. Repairing the heads meant milling them, and that lowered them. Each head has 2 bolts that clamp the timing cover to it....I added them to the TR heads to make the 400 timing cover work and with the heads remilled they got pretty buggered with me trying to get the bolts in
so today I slipped the cover on and found a drill bit that just fit though the cover holes and made centers match the start of the hole, then switched to the helicoil bit and drilled, making a nice oval
There were still some threads on the bottom so wen I tapped I used a block to keep things straight and was careful to to let the tap follow the existing bottom threads.
then coils in, clean it up and ready to actually install the cover
In reply to mke :
I admire your dedication to proper repairs. And I LOL'd at "making a nice oval," because I have a drill press that makes tri-lobe holes.
The timing cover is back on and cams timed. Cam covers and intakes tomorrow hopefully.
Hopefully I'm at least as good as Vinny and this is the last time
Its an engine I think....but I still need to pull the sump to fix the shifter leak and figure out the mount mounts...oh and fix the clutch hose.
Shook of the lazy and got the gaskets and new seals for the shift shift ordered....hopefully that will solve the oil puddle on the floor. It seems to be holding 2-3 quarts in the sump rather than pumping it all back to the tank as I'd hoped....I guess its down where I placed the outlets for the returns and maybe pump height. But if needing a working seal on the shifter just like stock is the worst of the oiling problems I'll call it a win I suppose.
mke said:Its an engine I think....but I still need to pull the sump to fix the shifter leak and figure out the mount mounts...oh and fix the clutch hose.
What a spectacular looking engine. Well done.
mke said:
With a casting that pretty, how could it possibly leak?
GasTungstenArc said:With a casting that pretty, how could it possibly leak?
Remember that is an after picture, before was more like this with a ton of sawing, welding and grinding
I'm probably going to binge-read this entire thread this coming weekend. I need something to look forward to. :-)
Last week/weekend I sat on the sofa with Lana watching in disbelieve at what wis happening in her country (Ukraine)....what a messed up world.
This weekend trying to leave the TV off so out in the shop to have a look at motor mount. First up rebore them from 3.125 to 3.625 so the TR mount fit in.
Once that was done I did a quick check on the engine
Looks good.....wait a minute....its upside down, DOH!
after pondering a bit I decided I can swap the brackets front to back and flip them upside down and get a reasonably good outcome. but the puts the mount on the top so I figured I should have all 4 bolts, which meant cutting ans welding a bit to move a support
But now it looks pretty good, I just need to make a spacer to go under as it should be touching the blocks siting under it.
I let the TV suck me in this morning but after lunch I finished up the motor mount brackets and got them painted. Some of might want to avert your eyes at the graphic images of welding on tabs...as in making tabs from weld because I'm too lazy to actually make them so I #D printed then with the TIG
Next up is replace the shifter shaft seals so I'll post this....when I filled the trans I used redline 75w90. Looking now I'm thinking maybe the 75w90ns would have been the better choice so I ordered a gallon of it.
Thoughts?
mke said:Thoughts?
I don't think any of us here are qualified to tell you what to do. (grin)
I'm too busy bowing, chanting "We're not worthy!"
mke said:Next up is replace the shifter shaft seals so I'll post this....when I filled the trans I used redline 75w90. Looking now I'm thinking maybe the 75w90ns would have been the better choice so I ordered a gallon of it.
Thoughts?
That's a go-to recommendation for my 360. Use the ns and add an oz or 2 of friction modifier as required to prevent diff chatter.
The mounts are looking great.
My thought is that you should ask Redline - they must have a tech support line, right?
Syscrush said:My thought is that you should ask Redline - they must have a tech support line, right?
Redline has a recommendation page and it says use the 75w90ns and add the diff additive as needed like mfennell suggested. The 308 guys seem to be using the MTL which is a 75w80 I think and also "ns" or no sulfur which seems to be great for the diff but bad for the brass syncros.
I guess I was just wondering what others with LSD in there transaxles were doing but right now I see the 75w90ns sitting on the front step so thats probably what's going in and I'll see how the diff behaves before adding anything else...I guess....
I may only be speaking for myself rather than the entire board, but you've got us so impressed that I'm almost surprised your last post wasn't something like "I couldn't get what I wanted from Redline so I made a cracking tower and am making my own full synth gearlube to spec" :D
When I was rallying a 323 GTX the hot setup to try to not blow up the glass and popsicle stick transaxle in that car was a 50 50 mix of MTL and Heavy Shockproof. But that gearbox doesn't have an LSD in it.
In reply to Jay_W :
I used to run Shockproof with a limited slip diff, and it worked just fine.
The only thing with Shockproof is that it gets its characteristics from small particles (calcium chloride?) that get pulverized as a course of their function, so after about 3000 miles it is just expensive oddly-colored gear oil. I used to change it every two rallycrosses.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
Spot on. We changed it out when we did engine oil.
SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) said:I don't think any of us here are qualified to tell you what to do. (grin)
I'm too busy bowing, chanting "We're not worthy!"
LOL. The challenge is what I can't wrap my head around.
The new motor mounts were like $400. I adapted the supports and I just looked and have some scrap metal for spacers so free but need longer bolts...$43
There's an oil leak on the shifter shaft so new seals, $50 then $35 for the gaskets and $75 for a gallon of trans oil....so $160 gone?
Then the engine goes back in. $85 for header gaskets, $70 for oil, I'm sure I'll need more coolant so another $40 so ..$200?
Just this little bit of work and nearly 1/2 the challenge budget is spent and it this fix works I'll need new tires, I should rebuild the suspension.....and even if the car was free I'm over just in maintain type items. 
In reply to mke :
challenge motor mounts = Hockey pucks and RTV and a slice of a driveshaft you picked up off the side of the road
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to mke :
challenge motor mounts = Hockey pucks and RTV and a slice of a driveshaft you picked up off the side of the road
Yes 
....but I've tried, I just can't do it. I start off all "I'm not spending any money of this stupid thing!" .....but I'll just fix this 1 thing.....BAM! $2k gone and I'm stuck until the budget resets at some random time in the future when the comptroller is in a better mood
Quick update as the weather here is clearly turning to spring and I'm clearly not ready.
I got myself all confused with my motor mounts with a dimension I don't know how I measured. I remeasured everything and have decided I want to shorten what I made by 1/8" and call them done, I'll get that fixed later today hopefully. The bolts I'd ordered are a bit short but the longer size was the longest mcmaster has in fine thread so I had to reorder everything in course thread which I don't like and cost me another $60 which I like even less but they will be here tomorrow.
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