I attached the front crossmember and the mounts for the rear trailing arms, everything is working out great
I attached the front crossmember and the mounts for the rear trailing arms, everything is working out great
Sleeve the suspension framework (wink).....let's talk induction scenarios......ITB's like I was thinking earlier or perhaps the Nekcar monster four barrel?
loosecannon said:The darn steering column runs right into a frame tube, it's going to take some effort to fix.
Go through that tube with a tube welded through it? Like a tunnel.
This is just so impressive and inspirational. If I could weld like that, it's all I would want to do. Beauty.
wvumtnbkr said:loosecannon said:The darn steering column runs right into a frame tube, it's going to take some effort to fix.
Go through that tube with a tube welded through it? Like a tunnel.
That is my plan
After doing the pass-thru tube, I worked on the rear cross member. It houses the sway bar, the Panhard bar and the upper shock mounts. The metal reinforcements I welded in previously got in the way so I had to cut them back out to attach the cross member mounts. The Speedway Motors rear suspension calls for these mounts to be bolted through the rear frame pieces and the trunk floor but they can also be welded in so I went that route because it's lighter and probably stronger. Episode 283 Speedway Motors Suspension Part 2
I welded the subframe to the subframe connectors and attached the steering column to the rack. After all that I bolted on the radiator support, doors, fenders and hood. I only did that to remind myself what I am building. The panel gaps all need fixing but it's a start
i do collision repair for a living. you sir deserve two big thumbs up for this thing. top notch work
Here is the video covering the subframe connection, steering shaft and panels bolted on. Episode 284 Subframe Connected
I can't believe it but my plan to widen the front fenders looks like it's going to work. I took a skin of the original fender and attached it to a reproduction fender. The profile is really good. This was just a test, I'll use two good fenders and redo it. Here is how the test looks
I begun modifying the actual passenger side fender after spending 2.5 hours getting the panel gaps reasonable
I did it. I cut out the narrow fender and welded on the widebody fender. It's going to be awesome. There will be a video out once I have it all welded
That's interesting. Not to be a dweeb, but with that much work, why didn't you just cut (right along the straight crease at the top of the fender) and pull (and weld, perhaps even less) the single-panel fender? The same could be done on the rear . . .
That looks really cool. I'm assuming you cut out the entire perimeter like a picture frame and are welding the 2nd fender into the opening?
In reply to rustomatic :
I explain this in the coming video but the profile of the fender edge is different than the rear quarter panel edge. On the rear, it was easy to just add another quarter onto the old one and add width but the front fender curves up before coming back down so that was not possible without raising the wheel opening. There are several ways of widening the front and each one has different consequences.
Your approach to this is very similar to what Ian Roussel executes on his show " Full Custom" the difference is that yours will be 'show car ' vs twenty footer with one eye closed that Ian seems to embrace......uh in some case is pretty wicked , but not on a 'Bitchin' 68 Camaro Beast......carry on
I started the widening of the drivers side fender and am using the knowledge learned from the passenger side to make it go even better. I took a couple of high up shots to show the Coke bottle shape the car now has. It's 2.5" wider overall in the rear and 3" in the front
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