Wax and grease remover! That was it! Thanks ranger.
I think he was spraying it through the gun to get the panel covered too.
Wax and grease remover! That was it! Thanks ranger.
I think he was spraying it through the gun to get the panel covered too.
rust is GONE.
yesterday i guidecoated and blocked the car with 180 in addition to floor work. Im having a hard time reading the guidecoat and what to do next. So art is coming by tomorrow morning to troubleshoot it with me.
Today, as its mother's day, i make a template for the floor patch panel. Thats it.
My 56lb box of bolts officially arrived at arrow plating in ft worth today. Cousin Eddie should approve!
Wow! Thats a lot of hardware
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Wax and grease remover until the panel is sealed, then water just before paint.
The spay gun is a quick way to apply the wax and grease remover. The car has to be pretty dust free before it really shows the reflections and it does not really tell you much until you have a single colored panel. ie not a huge help until you are done with the filler and on the high buld rounds.
Pete
The box of bolts was almost all the metric hardware in the shop. At least 2.5 neons, a bunch of pullapart hardware, some mazda, chevy, etc.
Im going to pull out all the neon stuff and weigh it for the budget. But it was a minimum fee whether it was 10lb or 75lb. So, get my money worth!
Nohome/java/bodygys:since art is still pretty unreliable (can't blame him. His mom was all he had left other than his brother), im going at it alone.
It FEELS straight and true. Guidecoated metal and bondo i get some shadows and speckles, but i have worked out all the dips and valleys and tapped down the peaks. I think. Will another round of guidecoat and blocking what i have tell me anything, or am i at the spray high build and pray stage, or is there some other method of checking my work im missing?
I don't even -guidecoat until I am into the high fill. Last thing you want to do now is remove more filler than you should just because you are hellbent on getting soe dark spot off the panel.
You can always add filler on top of the hig fill if you really need to, but If you think it is flat, shoot a layer of high fill and lets find out.
In reply to NOHOME :
Fair enough!
And just to make sure:
Scuff everything that gets high build with 180 (i think edges and the side mouldings cove is all left), wipe down with lacquer thinner and a paper towel, and spray. Right?
Out of morbid curiosity, after commenting on Java's IH, I was curious if your neon also had the hand print donut dent and outward bulge below it.
Dusterbd13-michael said:
Interesting, no?
In reply to Crackers :
Not seeing what you're talking about sir.
Todays goal is finish welding and sorting the floor patch. And then to start wipe down for high build.
Dusterbd13-michael said:In reply to NOHOME :
Fair enough!
And just to make sure:
Scuff everything that gets high build with 180 (i think edges and the side mouldings cove is all left), wipe down with lacquer thinner and a paper towel, and spray. Right?
That will work. Filler is to give you 98% 0f the finished shape of the panel with no unwanted waves. It will inevitably have scratches that hold guidecoat and just confuse you, so I would not bother with the high build on filler. But if it helps you, then go ahead, no harm.
The high fill is your first step to making that surface smooth and taking care of the last 2% of the leveling.Resighn yourself as an amateur to having to do more than one coat of high fill. Getting one panel right will teach you a lot about saving time and materials on other panels.
Awesome. I really cannot feel any more imperfections or issues at this point. I know there probably are. but a just can't see or feel them. And i want this car to actually look great, not just photograph that way.
that didn't take long.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
The sad part is that by the end of the project you will have a very good feel for how to make this perfect, but by then you will be done. Even as dedicated as I was trying to be, ended up with three spots that I see every time I look at the car and drive me nuts. Few others would.
The two circles on the left look like a low above the body line and a high spot below it. The circle on the right looks like there's some similar stuff going on, but more complicated.
Huh. Youre right! I really hadn't seen that.
So, dumb question:
Do i do sealer coat of epoxy before high build, or after final high build blocking?
I don't know how far you have gotten since that picture posted, I'd bet if you can get those low spots up the high spots will relax and those islands will be less noticable.
That metal high spot is making the area here in blue artificially low. The yellow circle is probably artificially high due to stretching in the low spot to the right. Then the area in purple (?) is probably where it's supposed to be or slightly low due to a wave effect from the low spot right above the wheel.
If you're going to be top coating right away I wouldn't bother with the epoxy before high build. Sealer coat afterwards will help reduce the odds of uneven porosity in the high build effecting top coat texture, but it's actual need is highly debated.
Ive moved on quite a bit from that picture. And, theres no way to get to the backside of the panel to do any massaging anyway.
So i want y'all to check my thinking. Remember, this is the first time ive attempted GOOD paint.....
1.Finish prepping all the nooks and crannies of the jambs and exterior panels with 180 grit. This includes doors and hood.
2. Vacuum all dust and media i can up.
3. Wipe down with lacquer thinner and a paper towel.
4. Spray single coat of epoxy primer.
5. Wait 15-20 minutes for epoxy to "flash" (thats no longer wet as judging by sticking my finger on it, right?)
6. Spray 4-5 heavy coats of high build primer. Only on exterior panels and door jambs that i can sand thoroughly afterwards. Not engine bay or trunk gutters or door hinges.
7. Keep sanding with blocks/320/400/600 and guidecoat.
Right?
So, art stopped by to check my work and borrow my buffer. He says it is ready for high build and final blocking. Color next week is entirely possible.
That being said, I need you to help me figure out a mental debate. Do I do the trunk body color and cause myself the added stress and aggravation of painting and prep, or do I do it black and just send it? For some reason I really want to do body color back there but I'm not sure why as all the metal is hidden behind carpet.
Body color. It'll bug you if you don't.
In reply to Stampie (FS) :
Yeah, you're right. Damn. I wanted to be lazy.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :
Prep level doesn't have to be to the extreme right?
In reply to Stampie (FS) :
I think it is just a scuff the epoxy, wipe, and shoot. Probably at the same time as the underside of the hood and door jambs. And then tape off for rest of the spray job.
Im pushing myself for color next week by the way. But only if the high build doesn't show me missing something.
It's really the same amount of time to do it right either way.
Although, did the old Mopars get zolatone in the trunk like the GM's did?
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