Oh look it's another boat! 69 or 70 Starcraft Falcon

With old Johnson and Evinrude parts, take the old part number and add a zero to the front of the number for the new part system.

So it looks like you need Evinrude part #554314, or 0554314 in the more modern part number system.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254349680204

You might also need a shift rod, 305287 or 0305287

Those look much more available, similarly priced to the above though.

That's going off my own memory and knowledge and that tapers off in the early 60s, so let me verify everything, but it looks like the non wear items should be $50-75 excluding shipping and whatever deal you can make.

Hell, I just remembered there is an old guy with a shop full of old parts near me.  He might have them even cheaper.

In reply to Mr_Asa :

He said he'd go down to $135, so I'll pick it up and tinker with it over time. The good news is I'll have the 25hp to use for now, and if the 33hp doesn't seem like an upgrade I can offload it for what I'd have in it or save it for the next boat project.....

Good plan.

In reply to Mr_Asa :

Although I've been thinking heavily on doing a jet ski conversion to a different aluminum boat. I need a new shell to start with though.

Any suggestions for anchors?

A good place for outboard motor parts is Twin City Outboard in Minnesota.  http://www.twincityoutboard.com  It's mainly a salvage yard (I think they're the biggest outboard motor salvage yard in the country) but they also have a lot of NOS new stuff on hand.  The website isn't very good but they do have an eBay store, and you can always call them to talk to someone in person.

captainawesome said:

Any suggestions for anchors?

I like the Spike from Power Pole, but that's cause I worked there for an internship when it was being developed.  Add a Micro for extra coolness.

I got confirmation on the long to short conversion as well.  Those two parts and you're good.  Doing the shift rod would need a seal kit for the lower unit, but those are $20ish.  Could also cut 5 inches off the shift rod and shape a new ball end to avoid opening the lower unit.

In reply to Mr_Asa :

Don't know if the Spike will work for our rocky terrain, but I'll do some more reading on it.

In reply to captainawesome :

Kind of also depends on how you are using it.  Pull up on the beach and just dont want the boat to float away, should work cause you have the beach and some sand/mud/clay with some give.

Hanging out in the middle of a river to fish, probably wont work, but with a Micro it might.  They've got some interesting engineering in that, it actually reads how much pressure is put on the spike and will adjust it as necessary with the rise and fall of the water and the firmness of the bottom.

I did some horse(power) trading today.

There's a local boat motor restoration guy I've been meaning to chat with that has some refurbished motors ready to go. They look brand new and are ready to hit the water. I want a 40hp because it's more power and it's more power. He's got a '63 40hp Johnson Sea Horse on the refresh list that fits my needs. After some discussion, I'm going to trade my '69 25hp Evinrude, the '65 33hp Evinrude I pick up this afternoon, and $500 cash for one that's done. Fresh paint, decals, carb cleaned, seals, water pump stuff, etc. The price is good for my wallet, it's going to look pretty with my boat, and I don't have to tinker. Only downside is the Evinrudes I'm trading are a neater looking motor. I'll survive.

Those the ones with the all white body, black, red, and gold trim?

I can appreciate the simplicity of the look, but I agree that the Evinrudes have much stronger eye appeal.

Pics when you get it!

In reply to Mr_Asa :

That's the one. I think it's actually called a Super Seahorse? He had a '75 50hp Evinrude that was lighter, but I think the character is lost with that era.

Edit:

Good news is this was a motor that was offered when my year boat was sold. I think the paint scheme would have been a little different?

falcon with johnson by hatchethairy, on Flickr

FWIW good manuals here if you find one to tinker on.

http://boatinfo.no/lib/library.html

In reply to captainawesome :

Looking around online, I now remember that some time in the late 60s Johnson did this weird two-tone paint job, which is what your pic there shows (looks good on the larger motors, weird on the 10 hp and below) but a 63 should be the all white I think.

I think the one in that picture might be a '70 Johnson 40HP.  The '69 has the side logo in this kind of plaque 

Edit: good pic of the motor in this link

https://www.whalercentral.com/infusions/personal_page/view_personal_page.php?user_id=15669

In reply to Mr_Asa :

More like this one I think. If it looks as good as the one in the video, I'll be smitten. The whole boat will look as close to showroom fresh as it was when originally manufactured. That's going to be neat.

A couple things to check before making the deal: oes the new motor come with a gas tank, or will your existing tank's hose mate up to the new motor?  Will your existing controls mate up to it?  At some point there was a change in the gas tank hoses and the connection, but I don't know what year that happened.

In reply to stuart in mn :

I'll find out. I know mine is setup with a newer plastic tank and quick disconnect for the fuel hose. Pictures of the controls all appear to be the same for those models, but I'll double check.

More help please. I can't figure out where to buy some new trim/grommets for my control cables. There are three in total that look like the one below.

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

No clue.  I'd be 3D printing something.

Get me some measurements and an address and I can send you something.

Edit: Not quite the same thing, but a Marine Rigging Grommet looks like it might work

https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Max-3005-2172-Rigging-Grommet/dp/B001AXM5RM

In reply to Mr_Asa :

I found some like that called marine rigging or transom grommet. Should do the trick I think.

The 33hp was pretty rough when I checked it out this evening, so I passed on it. The lower cast aluminum the cover latches on to was broken by the latch. Since I was trading it to the new motor guy I figured that was going to be a problem so I passed. I'll only have to fork up a few more bucks to the guy that I'm trading with, but certainly beats hauling another motor around in the meantime.

Didn't get as much done as I had hoped over the weekend, but managed to start building the bench seat base. I was kinda winging it from a general sketch of dimensions. There were some revisions along the way, but what I have is sturdy yet fairly light. The pine my mother gave me a month or two ago was ripped down to 2 1/4" strips to create the frame work. I realized there was no way to get the tank or battery out without removing the seat base, so I had to adjust the supports and braces then skinned with 1/4" treated ply. The seat back will fold into the seat bottom with some aluminum hinges I found on ebay, and then a multi-pivot hinge on the base will allow it to flip towards the bow. The top of the seat will latch magnetically, or at least that's the plan.

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

s-l16001 by hatchethairy, on Flickr

s-l16002 by hatchethairy, on Flickr

s-l1600 by hatchethairy, on Flickr

071a37cfd97c58efadc2fdfdc2425fb4 by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Those hinges are pretty slick.  Gonna have to make some myself or find some.  Did they have any sort of name with them?

Don't forget to account for little fingers when you build the stops for the back seat.  I can just see you gunning it and it slamming back on the splashwell, or one kid jumping into the seat while the other has the seat pulled forward some.

I just reread what I wrote.  When the berkeley did I turn into my father?

In reply to Mr_Asa :

Hopefully no fingers will be harmed in the closing of the seat.

The double hinges have so many different names, and it's taken days for me to find the ones I was looking for. Heck these were just labeled as boat piano hinge. Hopefully they will give me enough articulation and still be strong enough. The other seat hinges, were some older ones I found on ebay. I like them because the way they fold up versus newer style hinges requiring a gap between the back of the seat and the bottom.

LINK FOR DOUBLE HINGES

EBAY HINGES

Mr_Asa said:

I just reread what I wrote.  When the berkeley did I turn into my father?

It happened when purchasing extra-wide New Balance sneakers and cargo shorts seemed like a prudent decision, from both a financial and fashion perspective.

EDIT: Also should chime in with some love for the boat project. Looks great so far!