Old habit S10

Dusterbd13 said:

If you're doing a cam, 1.6 rockers are a waste. 

No.

I've built a lot of small blocks, street, and limited late model/street stock type motors and can tell you that, with a mild cam like that, 1.6 rockers are probably one of the best things you can do. The exhaust ports really like the higher lift and pay you well for it. The higher ratio will also increase the ramp which will be lazy on that oldschool cam.

I used to run a dirt series that had a .450 lift rule. I would run other tracks that didn't have the rule, and would swap in 1.6 rockers for those nights and it made a huge difference. I experimented with intake and exhaust, intake only and exhaust only. When time was tight or I was feeling lazy, I would just do the exhaust, it got me 90% of the way there.

Roller rockers might be a waste, but not stamped steel.

In reply to Peabody :

Well if I ever decide I need a bit more, hopefully I've future-proofed myself with the stud upgrade. 

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

Welcome to the club. I think we're officially up to three members, so that's nice. 

barefootcyborg5000 said:

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

Welcome to the club. I think we're officially up to three members, so that's nice. 

You two and Steve Dulcich?  Thats a decent group.

Oh, for what it's worth.  Next time you (or someone else) need to do this, you probably want something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Evolution-CC562-16-Inch-Diameter-Cyclone/dp/B00B7W53CK/

In reply to Mr_Asa :

NOW you tell me. 

In reply to barefootcyborg5000 :

E36 M3 man, you could have asked before you went gung-ho.

Still, you have the other head to do, right?

In reply to Mr_Asa :

Nope. We're done. But the second head went much faster. Hoping to have them cleaned and at least ready for install by next weekend. Next few days are busy so I'll update when I can. 

Oops

anyone know if standard super glue dissolves in fuel? 

Not knowing if cyanoacrylite was fuel safe, I did a two minute search. Google said "moderately" which is basically yes. Enough for me to run with, anyway. But for extra safety, I drilled and pinned the thing. Hard to get photos of tiny stuff. 
 

gonna let the glue set and clip the clip and sand it flush. I genuinely laughed when my little ryobi had enough squeeze to grab that .8mm bit. Dipped the paper clip in glue and slid it home. Seems good enough.
For those not familiar with Q-jets, this is a plastic piece the lives in the bowl and serves to hold the float in place. I could have probably run it broken, but I figured I could at least try to fix it. If it becomes an issue, there are a couple carbs kicking around dads shop that could serve as donors. 

Im doing the carb now because I thought I was done with the heads. But now the carb is spread accross the bench (1/4 sheet laying across the bed rails) I need to finish the thing before I can put the heads up there to finish the last few details. 
 

Nobody tell the wife that I did this in the kitchen while she was out. 

One remanufactured Rochester 

hoping to finish the heads today. All that's left is a few seats that still need attention. Which I discovered after cleaning. Really hoping I can avoid having machine work. 

all valves and seats lapped into submission, all threads and stems sealed. All moving parts lubriplated. And I mocked up a rocker and verified plenty of clearance, Clarence. 
 

Still need to clean all the rockers then the heads are ready for install. 

Heads installed, pushrods final cleaned and installed, block cleaned and masked. First coat applied. 

carb and intake just stacked for coolness. 
hoping to have all the prep completed next week and possibly start removing the iron Duke. 

In reply to barefootcyborg5000 :

Can we talk about the Bug in the background without drifting this awesome thread too much?

In reply to 11GTCS :

My moms car. 1959. It's a two tone, that color shifting yellow and white sides. It's got a fairly warm dual port. Still in project status. 

Let's talk about clutches. 
im comparing a 1998 350 to a 1978. They use a different flywheel, obviously, being 1 and 2-piece rear main seals respectively. Both are 168 tooth. 
They also call for different clutch kits. Both are 12" 10-spline disks, both use the same pilot bushing, but all the other parts are different. 
My trans is an old Saginaw. It will happily work with the old style clutch kit. What I can't find is whether the old clutch pn will bolt to the late style flywheel. Anybody know a good answer or a resource for the answer? Thanks

In reply to barefootcyborg5000 :

You need to worry about external vs internal balance with that year difference, I believe. Next thing you're gonna need to check is clearances of the various discs.

Not sure where those sources are (probably here,) but everything I read stated that generally you want to go flywheel back and not piecemeal.  That might just be best practice, though.

In reply to Mr_Asa :

Correct on the balance, for sure. Which is why I ordered the correct flywheel for the engine. But I don't think the clutch stuff is ever balanced... idk. Far from an expert. I do know that both styles of flywheel are flat and share the same diameter. My biggest two concerns are total stack height for the bellhousing/clutch fork I have, and pressure plate bolt pattern for the flywheel I have. 
 

Probably what I'll do is just take my flywheel to the parts store and see if an old style clutch kit will fit. If it fits, I think that's good enough. 

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:

i like q-jets

Ditto. 

They're fantastic street carbs.

Recon1342 said:

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:

i like q-jets

Ditto. 

They're fantastic street carbs.

Four members and growing!

Make that 5 (okay, mine's an Edelbrock AVS but same thing)

350 is as dressed as it will get before install. 
 

actually that header is only on to check plug clearance. It's fine. But also:

apparently the middle two runners go around the steering shaft, so that's neat. 
 

Truck is being dissected. It will not run again with the 2.5. 

No returning from here. I had to damage some stuff  

it doesn't look like much, but I managed to disconnect all the electrical hoopla, clutch hydraulics, shifter, driveshaft, throttle, fuel lines, and cooling system without damaging anything. As far as I can tell, the only things left are the engine bolts, and transmission crossmember and we can yank the whole thing out. Hopefully this coming week. 
 

Yet to do:

buy fuel reg. 
solve clutch hydraulics. 
throttle linkage. 
buy clutch. 
modify crossmember for shorter trans. 
find longer driveshaft. 
cut floor for new shifter location. 
figure out an exhaust system. 
plug/plumb all the little ports and holes. 
 

Calling it for tonight. I'm pooped. Slow progress today, and wife is starting to realize how big of a time commitment this project is which means progress may slow a little. Still planning to be done by April. 
 

onwards

Clutch actuation. 
The truck has a hydraulic clutch, with an external slave cylinder that pushes forward on the clutch fork. I would love to retain this system for simplicity. It isn't broken. 
The transmission/bellhousing im using has a clutch fork that needs to be pushed rearward. See from Funderbird  where I made it all work with levers:

I would love to somehow consolidate these things. I'm not sure I can given my space constraints. Anyone have any clever solutions that are very cheap or free?