In reply to Aaron_King :
I did come across some discussions about "alternative lighting" settings on the Tech2 that can change around which bulbs are used as the DRL. I'm probably going to get a plug and play D1S LED kit because Mrs. Racetruck's Escalade uses the same bulbs and needs a DRL bulb changed out anyways. The stock HIDs on that truck leave a lot to be desired from my experiences with Fiesta ST Euro projectors and the retrofit I did on the Yukon last year.
Small update, it's been snowing a little bit the last couple days. Not a ton but it's actually cold now, cold enough that I'm swearing to myself about moving back here every time I let the dogs outside.
So I haven't been out to the garage in a couple days but still working on some stuff for the engine rebuild. I cleaned the rods from the spare motor in my downstairs bathroom and weighed them to see how close they are rod to rod. There is a 7 gram swing between the lightest and heaviest, make of that what you will. I would like them to be within 1-2grams of each other, the pistons are all within half a gram of each other. I can't take full credit of this as I saw something similar on Calvin Nelson's Instagram a couple years ago. I modeled and printed a set of stands that hold the rod so the centerline is parallel to the scale, allowing just the small end to be accurately weighed. The small ends are closer, only a 3 gram swing so not a ton of grinding needs to be done.
I still can't believe you voluntarily headed north again.
I too moved back north voluntarily. July will be 10 years. My kids are in excellent schools and I will be here another 10 years or so. The schools down south (when compared to my school district) are an absolute mess.
Anyway. I'm still enjoying this thread and love the content. So many cool details about Saabs.
My oldest, 19 year old son, came back from Air Force Tech school on Friday and has decided he needs my 02 Aero for his car. On one hand I am proud, its a manual, fun, safe car but that would mean I need something else and I am not sure what to get. Stick shift 9-5's are hard to find now, let alone Aero's.
In reply to Aaron_King :
What's you wagon policy? Aero Wagon
In reply to RacetruckRon :
Very much yes, but its sold.
It's been a while since I've done anything on this project. I was planning to assemble the rotating assembly over the Thanksgiving break but I got my ass kicked by Covid right before the holiday and spent about a week recovering. I'm good now and luckily the wife never got it but it sure put a damper on my plans. It's getting properly cold up here now, I really need a heater for this garage or I'm going to have to move back down south.Parts have been showing up. I have a few seals, a timing set and a clutch that have shown up in the last couple days.
Now, if you follow any of my other builds or projects you might know I have an affinity for misusing parts bin engineering for my gain. If someone on a forum says a part from XYZ should work on ABC because they share an important feature, that peaks my interest. When someone else comes along and poopoos all over that idea because ABC should only use ABC parts that really makes me dig in like a tick. It almost forces me into figuring out exactly why it will/won't work. Saab guys are pretty bad at this as are most Euro car guys while GM truck fans (like myself) and Viper enthusiasts really lean into it.
"So Ron what are you rambling about this time?" Clutches. I'm rambling about clutches. Drivetrain is one of the most expensive systems to develop, test and manufacture on any vehicle so this is one of the best opportunities to take advantage of parts bin engineering. You think Saab developed their own 5 speed gearbox for the 9-5? Nope its just an F25/F35 that was used in every manual FWD GM car with a different bellhousing. So it uses the same 14 tooth input shaft that the LSJ powered Saturn Ion Redline and 05-07 Cobalt SS. These cars also used a 9-7/16" clutch disc, Saab 9-5 Aero was 240mm. Hmmm... do we remember our conversion factors? 9-7/16 -> 9.4375 * 25.4 = 239.7125mm ~ 240mm This is real engineering folks, this is what 5 years of applied physics, thermodynamics and calculus really boils down to. Metric conversions.
TLDR I ordered an offbrand Cobalt SS clutch kit from rockauto for half the price of a legit Sachs replacement kit. Even more impressive it's a dual friction disk so we'll see how it holds and wears. Standard organic material on the flywheel side and multi-puck sintered semi-metallic friction material on the pressure plate side. The biggest difference I can find from my research is that the alignment dowels for the pressure plate might be a different diameter on my flywheel than the Cobalt flywheel. If I can't figure out a solution for that I should probably return my Mitutoyo caliper and burn my diploma. This clutch is from a company called M-pact that seems to only be sold on rockauto so we'll see how it goes. It was worth the gamble in my mind and if we can document a cheap upgrade for an aging cult car and keep a few more running because of that gamble, that's a huge win.
Edit: Adding a little factoid I've found along the way for the other parts bin deviants. The reason I used a specific year range on the Cobalt SS is in 2008 they dropped the LSJ and moved to the turbo Ecotech LNF designation. This model year change also dropped the 5 speed F35 and started using the 6 speed F40 transmission which is only found in the Saab world in the Ecotech powered 9-3 cars. The F40 has a different input shaft spline count, 24 teeth I think. Take notes Scotty.
I did a little shuffling in the garage and then had to put the Yukon and strap to work to move the Saab. I got the Saab in the middle bay to thaw out, the garage isn't heated but it is insulated and keeps about 10° warmer than outside. At least that's what the garage feels like compared to outside but it's still cold to me, South Carolina really made me a bitch about cold weather.
The Escalade will likely have to get pushed outside whenever I get around to pulling the engine just for extra space. I'm trying to decide whether I drop the whole subframe and lift the car over the subframe or pull the engine and trans out the top. I'm leaning towards pulling just the engine and trans.
It was almost 40° this weekend which is "warm", I've been adjusting back to Wisconsin winters and I'm not sure how I feel about that. Anyway, I was going to work on the Swedish Accord this weekend and then thursday afternoon I berked my finger up really good and earned 8 stitches. So no actual progress but I have a couple parts in the pile for a 3" exhaust I plan on fabricating.
No emissions testing in my county but daily drivers shouldn't smell like dirty racecars.
Holley clearance parts are some of my favorites.
The whistles go WOOOOOOOOOOO! I bought an exhaust tip... am I a boomer now? This kinda feels like boomer E36 M3 but it was shiny and ovular.
I would sugest dropping the subframe, then you can change out the bushings at the same time.
In reply to Aaron_King :
I've been debating doing that. I'm also trying to figure out if dropping the whole subframe is easier than pulling the engine out the top.
RacetruckRon said:. . . and then thursday afternoon I berked my finger up really good and earned 8 stitches.
Damn. I hope it's still the original length, and not shortened a knuckle or two. Heal up quickly.
In reply to Indy - Guy :
Still full length, I didn't join the nub club. I slipped taking a part off the 3d printer and punched the edge of the glass build plate. It's healing up pretty quick.
In reply to RacetruckRon :
Note that I haven't actually done it yet, but when I was plotting out the strategy for pulling the engine on my '04, it looks easier clearance-wise to drop the subframe. I previously had a parts car that had the engine come out the top and the guy who pulled it said it wasn't fun to get out.
Given the axiom of scope creep, at this point given how much effort you're putting in you'll most likely want to repaint the subframe anyway. Also a good use for child labor:
(Old pic. I kind of need to get the car back together for more uplift to move her home from school this spring)
Man I forgot how long and miserable Wisconsin winters are. The weather as at the very least been pretending to try and be nice, we have had almost a week now in the high 40s to low 50s. I have been in the garage a little bit lately organizing some stuff and preparing for some actual vehicle projects.
So the Saab is my first goal because I have the most parts on the shelf for it and it is the furthest from running of any of my vehicles. The engine has to come out, I think I'm going to pull the whole subframe and drop it out the bottom but I need to disconnect and remove some stuff from the top first.
Home Depot concrete mixing tub makes a great coolant catcher. I'll let it go overnight, I have this Friday off and this weekend is looking like its going to be pretty nice (for April in Wisconsin) so I'll be back out in the garage to work on this thing again soon.
That garage is huge!
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
It's only big when it's empty which means I have too much crap.
RacetruckRon said:In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
It's only big when it's empty which means I have too much crap.
what's the depth from door to back wall? looks pretty generous to me, especially from the confines of my 20x20
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
24'x36' with 10' ceilings
RacetruckRon said:In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
24'x36' with 10' ceilings
schwing
So this thing is still in my garage... It's been about 11 months since I bought it and RTR kid #1 is set to arrive in less than 3 weeks so no time like now to get working on this Swedish turd. I'm trying to pull the whole front subframe this weekend if I can wrangle some help from a buddy or two.
I snagged the TD04HL from PointofDeparture's Volvo few weeks back in hopes of maybe using the exhaust housing on my Saab's turbo. The volvo exhaust housing is a larger A/R ratio, better wastegate porting and larger downpipe opening this should help push this Aero turbo a little farther without getting too crazy but would also support a spicier compressor in the future. This will require modifications to the exhaust manifold and a new downpipe but I was already planning on a custom downpipe.
Glad to see this being worked on again. Congrats on the new arrival. Enjoy the ride!
More later but the engine is out.
You'll need to log in to post.
