jfryjfry wrote:
Blowing the crud out the exhaust.... do you think it may have messed up the cats???
Could be but there's not really any way to know that until things are back together and running. It wasn't throwing catalyst codes when it was last turned off. In fact, the CEL was off completely during it's last run cycles. Everything will require a fairly extensive shakedown before I declare anything fixed.
In reply to Ecast25:
The only liquid gasket is on the timing chain cover. Everything else is nice little rubber gaskets all of which will be replaced. I will be very careful cleaning up the timing case.
Ecast25
New Reader
1/15/17 5:04 p.m.
mazdeuce wrote:
In reply to Ecast25:
The only liquid gasket is on the timing chain cover. Everything else is nice little rubber gaskets all of which will be replaced. I will be very careful cleaning up the timing case.
You are correct. Unless you removed the oil pans, those 2 also use the same glue.
God willing the oil pans and transmission will stay attached through this whole ordeal. In order to pull those I need to remove the engine from the subframe and attach it to a stand. I'm quite happy with the subframe acting as a stand for this project.
ascott
New Reader
1/15/17 5:22 p.m.
After reviewing this thread, and going back over some experiences I had with a '99 BMW 540i, I have come to a couple conclusions:
1) MB's engines are superior to BMWs.
2) BMW's engines are inferior to MBs.
That's all, really. What I'm seeing with this disassembly is a whole lot less bullE36 M3 than existed in my M62. You can't even remove the M62 camshafts without the proper hold-down tools, or they'll snap in half.
If you're comparing this to E39 engines, you should be comparing to the S62 found in the M5. There's a bunch of stuff in that installation that would probably not pass normal standards for access, but was "well, it's what we had to do to make it fit and we're not going to make very many of them anyhow".
As for aluminum oxide - we had a machine shop that was using it to bead-blast heads. We lost a LOT of engines before we figured that out, and the shop swore up and down it was not their fault. We replaced all the problem engines on our own dime, and it still hurts nearly 15 years later. The scary thing is that this shop is now positioning themselves to work on rare vintage stuff like a supercharged 1935 Alfa and 60's Ferraris.
ascott wrote: You can't even remove the M62 camshafts without the proper hold-down tools, or they'll snap in half.
You can. BMW merely assumes that you are a complete idiot and will zip off the bolts one at a time instead of gradually loosening them.
mndsm
MegaDork
1/15/17 6:37 p.m.
You know, to sidetrack this a little, I have to wonder if mb doesn't catch wind of this because of road and track and stuff.
NOHOME
PowerDork
1/15/17 8:19 p.m.
mndsm wrote:
You know, to sidetrack this a little, I have to wonder if mb doesn't catch wind of this because of road and track and stuff.
Aware? Yes. Give a Berkley? Not int heir DNA.
mndsm
MegaDork
1/15/17 8:46 p.m.
NOHOME wrote:
mndsm wrote:
You know, to sidetrack this a little, I have to wonder if mb doesn't catch wind of this because of road and track and stuff.
Aware? Yes. Give a Berkley? Not int heir DNA.
That part is well true. I just know the internet as a whOle has a way with changing people's minds. I don't suspect m-b to give two E36 M3s, but it'll be fun to watch this whole thing, regardless.
Does it matter that I'm kind of in love with the AMG GT-C? It's like a hardtop Miata turned up to 12. Or 13.
If you're following along Mercedes North America, I'm an experienced One Lap driver and I'm easily reachable. 
mndsm
MegaDork
1/15/17 9:12 p.m.
They're not hard on the eyes.
ascott
New Reader
1/15/17 10:39 p.m.
In reply to mndsm:
I'm sure they will, especially if he's ultimately successful, which it appears he will be.
The trick will be when he goes to re-time it. It was impossible to re-time the M62 in my BMW without the factory diagnostic computer software. If MB did their homework, there's a way to clock the cams and the valve adjusters, lock them in place, and then put the chain on. And have the ECU pick up and go on the first start.
Ecast25
New Reader
1/15/17 11:00 p.m.
In reply to ascott:
Well, as long as everything was marked (chain to adjusters) and it was done correctly (which I'm confident it was), no need to hook up computer. Only need would be to erase codes.
mazdeuce wrote:
Does it matter that I'm kind of in love with the AMG GT-C? It's like a hardtop Miata turned up to 12. Or 13.
If you're following along Mercedes North America, I'm an experienced One Lap driver and I'm easily reachable.
We can only hope the depreciation on these is severe as it is on other big $$$ Mercs!
As far as the scotch-brite pads, I've used them to clean the block deck before head installation a few times, but only using them by hand (never with power tools) and only on iron blocks. I've done it a few times on the Jeep motor, no signs of any issues.
I just did my best to get everything good and clean afterwards and made sure to use a good oil filter (not a cheap one) for the first startup to have the best chance at catching any leftover particles. I also plugged any holes in the deck I could while working with the pads and did most of the heavy cleanup with a razor blade to reduce the scrubbing required.
84FSP
Dork
1/16/17 8:59 a.m.
In reply to BenBoosted:
Internet fame is weird and thankfully fleeting. A co-worker of my wife who isn't anywhere close to being a car guy stopped her this morning to ask if the van he saw on the internet was mine. Weird.
The STAR cd came from eBay. There are some pirated ones out there for cheap but this is (probably) real MB and was $110. It only runs on older XP computers, which I have. Worth every penny.
I was offered an extended warranty for $8k for one year and 12k miles. I strategically declined. The van was pretty much flawless for 12k miles. I consider myself $8k ahead at this point. It's all about perspective.
hhaase
Reader
1/16/17 10:13 a.m.
Another thing to consider for scraping your carbon is hardwood. Guys use those for cleaning out the coin troughs in Rowe change machines. I gave it a try for a few other things and it works like a charm. Can sand to fit odd crevices, easy to re-sharpen, and won't gouge the metal unless you really get some dense wood and go nuts.
In reply to hhaase:
As odd as it sounds, I've been using toothpicks. They're not strong, but it's really about force/area anyway and they're pointy. They've been a great tool for getting the carbon to flake up and off. A little tedious, but time is pretty much free.
hhaase
Reader
1/16/17 10:30 a.m.
mazdeuce wrote:
In reply to hhaase:
As odd as it sounds, I've been using toothpicks. They're not strong, but it's really about force/area anyway and they're pointy. They've been a great tool for getting the carbon to flake up and off. A little tedious, but time is pretty much free.
I keep a box of popsicle sticks for just the same purpose. Bamboo skewers work great too. I'd rather spend an extra hour and go through another dozen wooden sticks, if it keeps the aluminum in good shape.
Heading out to try bamboo skewers right now! They're just big toothpicks! I'm not a smart man.....
Clean chamber vs. dirty chamber.
hhaase wins maximum internet points for the day. Not only do the skewers work better, but when they get dull you just snip the end off and send them through the pencil sharpener. Brilliant! Huge thanks the hhaase. This is why we talk about innane things like cleaning carbon. Seems silly sometimes but now I know not to use scotchbrite pads ever and bamboo skewers rock.