ultraclyde said:Any reason you just cleared the decals and not the whole frame?
because i'm not real smart. and it was cold in the garage.
ultraclyde said:Any reason you just cleared the decals and not the whole frame?
because i'm not real smart. and it was cold in the garage.
AngryCorvair said:In reply to FSP_ZX2 :
bicycles are such elegant machines. I really like doing projects like this. I've done one "fix enough to make it rideable," one drivetrain and brake update with no cosmetics, and one complete mechanical replacement (similar to this build) where we masked all the original decals and resprayed the frame the original color. You should do it!
So...I did a thing. I found an almost free 1977 Takara 64/25" frame (I'm 5'18'). Going SS/FG...
I’m a bike mechanic and I applaud what you’re doing (have done?). You couldn’t buy a similarly equipped 853 bike for what you’ve got in this. Nice work!
Who did the powder coat? Is it possible to re-coat in clear after the decals are set?
In reply to Sanchinguy :
Thanks for the kind words! I love doing projects like this, and I'm stoked that my wife and I will now be able to ride together.
Powdercoat was done by a guy here in Plymouth MI 48170. I don't know the business name. He's a friend of a friend, so I only know him by name and cell phone number. He said the decals probably wouldn't survive the heat required to cure clear powder.
Steal of a steel bike for $60.. came out sweet. One of the many benefits of steel, you can tweak/untweak them no prob. I've supplied family members with various $60 bikes.. to varied levels of receptiveness. Sounds like your wife actually asked for a bike though, so you should be set!
Is this the guy? See his post from December 13 .......
https://www.facebook.com/DynastyPowderCoating/
https://www.facebook.com/DynastyPowderCoating/photos/pcb.1480329882084553/1480329808751227/?type=3
bOttOmfeeder said:Is this the guy? See his post from December 13 .......
https://www.facebook.com/DynastyPowderCoating/
https://www.facebook.com/DynastyPowderCoating/photos/pcb.1480329882084553/1480329808751227/?type=3
Yep, that's the guy! Between my last post and now, I texted him to get the shop name.
Kyle at
Dynasty Powder Coating
13101 Eckles
Plymouth MI 48170
+1 (734) 560-0310
In reply to FSP_ZX2 :
Looking forward to the build thread!
Since we can post pix directly into threads now, I'm going to update this with some more detail.
The next couple shots show the front brake cable installation into the lever (which some people call a "brifter" since it is both brake and shifter).
Gotta get in that little hole up under the rubber skirt:
I cut the cable housing to length with my sweet Park Tools cutter:
I used a 3D trim nail to make the inner reinforcement round again so the cable will pass through smoothly.
And here's the front brake with cable installed and pad contact adjusted.
still watching. also I am looking forward to spring for riding.
Locally we have an Eskimo Pie ride next Sunday on mountain bikes, but that is just a hold over until we can get out on road bikes.
Installation of rear brake is pretty much just like the front, so no pix of that process. But I will share a little bit of info on adjusting brake pads for proper contact.
The brakes are not perfectly rigid, so they deflect when the pads are squeezed against the rim. If the pads are set up for flat contact to the rim in static conditions, they will make tons of noise in use because deflection of the brake will shift contact to the leading end of the pad (rearward on bike, called "leading" because it's the first part of the pad to see any particular spot on the rim). For quiet operation, the pads have to be set up with trailing end contact. I accomplish this by applying a few thicknesses of masking tape to the leading end of the pads, then squeeze them against the rim and tighten the pad bolts. Perhaps the pic below will be better than my hundred-plus words:
You have done a fantastic job restoring this bike. It looks like you got enough enjoyment from fixing it up to make the process worthwhile. Your wife should really enjoy riding it. Kudos.
Great tip with the painter's tape on the brake pads. That works perfect and easily.
I have an old Bridgestone XO-1 that I love but its paint and decals are beat pretty badly. Now I'm thinking of giving this guy in Plymouth a call.
In reply to Erich :
Having the frame stripped and powder coated was worth every penny of the $100. Do it!
In reply to JoeTR6 :
Thanks man, I appreciate the kind words. I do love working on projects like this.
At some point during the assembly process, the rims just jumped out at me as not fitting the desired look. I quickly realized it was the white lettering that was wrecking it for me. Fortunately, those stickers peeled off relatively cleanly, and a little WD-40 on a paper towel removed what little bits of adhesive remained.
before:
And
after:
And here are some random shots that I just like and wanted to share:
After installing the derailleurs and shift cables, I simply followed the installation instructions to adjust everything. Once I tweaked the travel limit screws and cable barrel adjusters, she was clicking cleanly up and down the chainrings and cogs, and the final assembly step was to wrap the handlebar with new tape - black, of course. The roadies among us will quickly see what I did wrong.
And with that, the bike is complete. She's hanging in the basement, patiently waiting for her maiden voyage.
Another fast way to set pad angle: put a piece of zip tie between the rear end of the pad and the rim. Hold it in place by applying the brake firmly. Then loosen the pad bolt and re-tighten it. Release the brake lever. Done.
In reply to Sanchinguy :
That's a good one. I used tape because I knew it would stay in place, but a zip tie wrapped loosely around the pad will do the same thing, and can be easily moved from one pad to another.
Yep. Just make a loop big enough to go around the pad. Works on v-brakes and cantis, too. I’m a bike mechanic and use this method maybe a dozen times a day...
AngryCorvair said:maschinenbau said:Dat fork clearance tho...nice. For those of you who are new to bike builds, think of tight tire clearances as the aesthetic equivalent of a perfectly fitting fender flare.
It was dumb luck. I never considered that 28s might not fit.
Reanimating this thread to note that the 28 tire at 90 psi very lightly rubs the rear brake mount, in the dead center of the tread. Naturally, I dropped the tire to 80 psi and the rub went away. Minimum recommended pressure is 80 psi, so it will be ridden this way until the tread is worn a few microns, then I'll bump up the pressure a couple psi.
If you'll forgive a rude question, how much do you weigh? I'd run a 28 at around 80-85 psi and I'm 84kg.
I have 30's on this and run 60 psi in the rear, 50 in the front:
AngryCorvair said:The roadies among us will quickly see what I did wrong.
Oof, asymmetrical bar tape. A couple hours on a country road staring at that would drive me nuts.
I used to have a 2002 Lemond Alpe d'Huez, it was a great bike. I think its basically the same frame but with a 1" head tube instead of a 1 1/8". I saved all summer in high school and paid for it in cash (literally). I rode the crap out of it, did my first race on it, and then I stopped riding it when I got a cheap racey Cannondale. I gave my Lemond to my brother and its sitting in his garage, unridden. I'm going to steal it back at some point.
Dammit said:If you'll forgive a rude question, how much do you weigh? I'd run a 28 at around 80-85 psi and I'm 84kg.
I have 30's on this and run 60 psi in the rear, 50 in the front:
Wow, that's an impressive ride, Enve wheels, Dura-ace Di2 hydraulic shifters, XTR derailleur, 1x11, hollowgram crank with a power meter, custom frame, good colours (not black and red!) very nicely put together! you should post it over here if you haven't already - Grassroots Pedalsports - Do we have a bicycle discussion thread?
Adam
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