I have had some hurtles on the car that I have been working, first and for most I have been having the joy of red hot exhaust manifolds and fireballs coming out the exhaust way larger than needed or wanted.
Please skip this paragraph if the stand alone computer stuff gets a little monotonous and time consuming this might get boring. So to start off when it comes to Microsquirt stand alone you end up needing to input a crank, and often cam, position input into the ecu to determine spark and fuel timing. Well ideally the stand alone computers use a Hall effect sensor, you provide it power and ground and it pulses the given power to the computer as a consistent input voltage. Most cars these days use a Variable Reluctance sensor, often called a VR sensor, and it uses the crank trigger wheel to produce a voltage in the sensor with the use of magnets, the problem with these sensors is the higher the rpm the higher the voltage tends to be. On a stock ECU matched to the car this isn't a problem at all, but on the stand alone often times the voltage gets too high and the signal gets lost. Now one last thing to keep in perspective is the VR sensors are just two wires, doesn't always tell which is positive and which is negative and can often be run either direction with the change of some settings. Well given all that background I ended up with a setting off and the wires flipped and once that was sorted I was loosing tach signal at higher rpms, due to the high voltage. So after adding a resistor inline, which burns off some of the voltage from the sensor, I was back in business with a motor revving to 6k+ and much less cutting out.
You can skip this paragraph too, but it isn't as stand alone heavy, and more just engine technical heavy 
The next challenge I was having was the glowing red manifolds, as the fiero community is well aware of red hot manifolds is simple put due to high exhaust gas temperatures. For the stock 2.8 this is most commonly found from cracked manifolds sucking in air and making a lean mix in the manifold and there for hot exhaust. Intake manifold leaks can cause this two, but I was able to rule both of them out with some checking, so I had to dig farther. One thing is isn't often mentioned with the Designs One turbo kit, is the that the turbo is too small, you hear it when people talk about putting it on the 3.4, but truthfully its too small for the 2.8 too, especially if anything has been done to the motor, like high flowing aluminum heads and intake 
So we get back to when I was getting red hot manifolds, after about 5min on the highway at 70mph my manifolds were glowing and glowing quite brightly, including the whole turbine housing and the beginning of the downpipe. Well long story a bit shorter, one thing you always need to do on a stand alone car and I hadn't done since the car was running was confirm ignition timing, well I was retarded by 3.5 degrees, its a simple process of setting the engine to run at a static 10 degrees of ignition timing and checking to see how far off you were, I was running 6.5 degrees, so was off the whole time. So add that to the fact that the turbo is so small that 70mph I was spooling the turbo to almost 0 vacuum just cruising, well this caused the engine to go into the the timing of 12 degrees for under boost and richening up, well compound that with 3.5 degrees off your down to 8.5 degrees of spark timing, very low for this motor, and in turn red hot manifolds. After fixing these issues I had it running pretty nicely, but sadly not before I had taken a drastic step and changed the turbo to a larger one I found locally.
Now for the turbo conversion build, we will start with a few things, and most of them are related to my specific install, but hopefully it can be useful information for somebody else considering a 3x00 swap. First is the cast manifolds that match the motor are much larger sized than the fiero manifolds port wise, and the 2.8 or gen 2 manifolds both will not fit the gen 3 heads, the port on them is bigger than the manifold itself. So I went ahead on my build and converted the car from the fiero manifolds and cross over to the 2.8 gen2 aluminum head manifolds and cross over, eliminating the down pipe flange and egr port hole. Now for the new turbo, I got a JDM subaru legacy turbo, its a twin scroll turbo for a 150hp 2.0l 4 cylinder, so a little small still, but the same brand as my turbo that was on the car so lots swap over, but I did have to build a new crossover pipe and downpipe, and change my charge piping a bit.
Here is the crossover mock up with the turbo flange:
And here are a couple pictures of the turbo in place:
I was able to reuse a lot of the piece from last turbo setup on the charge piping and intercooler and had the set up going fairly quickly:
So as of right now the car has been getting tuned and tweaked and the turbo set up is doing quite well, boost quite nicely and makes awesome noises, as the video alex posted shows. Now the next step that is causing issues is I am experiencing boost creep due to the undersized turbo, running a 2.8l on a turbo meant for a 2.0 isn't ideal, but I wasn't planning large boost levels and the turbo can flow 400hp worth of flow, so Im not worried. I will be pulling the turbo to port the exhaust manifold and waste gate ports to help reduce the creep, right now I hit 6psi by about 1500-1800rpms and by 4000rpms I start gaining a pound of boost every few hundred rpms until I hit 11-12psi and I let off before it gets out of hand
So hopefully you guys enjoyed the antics Ive been through, it can get frustrating at times, but as somebody who has daily driven fieros for year and then been out of them for years I am really enjoying my time back in one!
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So I had to get creative, since v6 even fire engines fire every 120 degrees I got an idea that if I reordered the coils to effectively give a 561234 firing ordered as compared to the crank angle that I could get this 120 degree offset lined up. So before I did any wiring I grabbed the cylinder 5 plug wire and shot the timing light while cranking and it was spot on! so with a quick rewire of the coil trigger pins on both sets of coils and the car fired right up!!
