Javelin wrote: In reply to Swank Force One: Underhood temps. Learn 'em, love 'em.
I'm aware of what the intention is... Header paint is something you typically apply to a source of heat. Not necessarily as a insulator AGAINST heat. Treat the source first, then if still necessary, move on to the stuff getting soaked via actual shields.
For that matter, do we know if the IATs are truly being affected or not?
If you get the proper paint, you can insulate the piping from heat soak in the engine bay, plus dress it up a bit in the process. The standard cheap header paint won't generally do this, but the better versions with ceramic insulation properties will.
I probably won't do much of anything this time around, since I want to get it back on the road quickly so I can get it legally tagged and get back to working on the 924 again.
Eventually I'll have to pull the engine for a proper re-sealing, belts, etc. Then I'll plan on a bunch of coatings for the intake and exhaust tubing.
Here's some of Jav's runs:
http://youtu.be/N9XC5OebdZM
http://youtu.be/j8T5EmgZ1VA
If you're not familiar with the sunroof operation, take a read through this: http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/body-03.htm . I think I went through about 3-4 gears before I finally got the hang of it.
Also, my 924S blew hot air as well unless the A/C was clicked on. Never did figure it out, just always had the A/C on unless it was cold.
Sunroof was fixed using Clarks and it works nicely now. Since I patched up the battery box, its as dry as a drum inside. I'll spray it with some bedliner to help stave off further rusting while I've got the car in for service this weekend to fix the steering and pull the intake manifold.
Clarks has some info on the HVAC system used in the later cars, I'm going to replace the heater valve when the intake is off and then depending on the outcome, work on the bits inside.
For the 924S and early 944 there's this information:
http://944foot2thefloor.blogspot.com/2009/09/how-to-repair-heater-control-valve-on.html
That should fix the problem on your 924S
A little progress:
Fixing the last bit of slop in the shifter with some 10mm thrust washers:
Link to video clip on shifter improvement
Some parts arrived and its pretty boring, but I had to laugh at the Turbo refresh kit:
Those silly Taiwanese :)
In reply to turboswede:
Plus, needle thrust bearings are just cool...
Hrmmm....
Trying to wrap my brain around the thrust bearings.... about to put metal bushings in the linkage of my car, wondering what this would do for me. How cheap were those bad boys and what do they do?
Also, that turbo rebuild kit looks like it's from the same place i got my last one. 
$9.96 for the pair from Amazon :)
Basically they allow you to tighten the bolt up fairly snug to ensure that the lever is acting on the sides of the shift rod and not the bolt itself, reducing wear. The bearings also allow the lever to rotate for forward and back movement without binding, like a bushing could if it were run that tight.
Depending on the linkage and how it is built, one could go either way. I've built mechanical linkage for a FWD car using bronze bushings because the size of the pieces allowed the use of larger bushings that were exposed to all sorts of dirt, oil, etc. things that bearings don't take well to for very long, even the expensive sealed ones.
ransom wrote: In reply to turboswede: Plus, needle thrust bearings are just cool...
Exactly. You can buy a new lever online that includes these and a bolt, etc. for $50. I decided my lever was fine, it just needed a new pivot point and some of those thrust bearings :)
turboswede wrote: $9.96 for the pair from Amazon :) Basically they allow you to tighten the bolt up fairly snug to ensure that the lever is acting on the sides of the shift rod and not the bolt itself, reducing wear. The bearings also allow the lever to rotate for forward and back movement without binding, like a bushing could if it were run that tight. Depending on the linkage and how it is built, one could go either way. I've built mechanical linkage for a FWD car using bronze bushings because the size of the pieces allowed the use of larger bushings that were exposed to all sorts of dirt, oil, etc. things that bearings don't take well to for very long, even the expensive sealed ones.
Ah ok... yeah, my bushings are Bronzoil and will be pretty exposed. Pretty much identical to what i did on the Escort, and i was ecstatic at how that shifter feels. (Though i haven't driven it yet, just sat in it and made vroom vroom noises while slamming through gears.)
Started on fixing the smoking problem.
Oh god, what have I done?:
Replaced the steering rack bushings:
Yeah, that was bad.
Installed ABS sensors in the front:
And sway bar mount braces:
Still gotta finish pulling the turbo and resealing it. Luckily, everything (aside from the AOS O-rings and a couple of coolant hoses) have been in great shape. The vacuum lines need a little help, but that shouldn't be too bad.
Almost ready to run again:
A bunch of work for such a small number of parts replaced:
Need to replace a coolant drain plug, fill the cooling system, bypass the brake pad wear sensors, bleed the clutch and change the oil. Hopefully replacing the faulty heater control valve will solve the heat issue and replacing the AOS seals will solve the smoking issue.
Now that I've got the Wolf3D v500 software installed on my laptop, I should be able to pull some fuel out of it at idle to get it to pass the sniffer :)
Effing clutch hydraulics. Car runs much better than before now that all of the vacuum leaks have been sealed. Doesn't run rich, no oil smoke. 25inches of vacuum at idle!
However, can I get the clutch hydraulics blead properly? Nope!
Changed the transaxle fluid. Ick, that was nasty stuff. Way overdue. Redline MTL, FTW!
One more shot to bleed the clutch today before I pull it apart and replace the MC and the Slave :/
Welp, started pulling the hydraulics. Went to drop the starter and the positive battery post on the solenoid fell apart.
Then I managed to drop the starter on my face, covering it, my shirt and the creeper in blood.
Finally, the creeper managed to snap a wheel off due to my fat ass landing on it repeatedly.
Yeah, I'm ranting a bit. I'm allowed. I really want to drive my car again, but I suspect I'll get to drive it once the rain comes again :/
So, I finally finished the stupid clutch hydraulics. What a pain in the ass it is to install/remove the clutch master cylinder.
Fixed the starter as well, since the stud broke off of the solenoid when I attempted to remove the battery lead. Of course one of the mounting screws for the solenoid had to be drilled out, found a screw in my pile that works. One of these days, I'd like to get one of the nice, geared underdrive units.
Bled the hydraulics for hours with a pressure bleeder from the top and still had a little air in the system. Had to pressure bleed it from the bottom to get the last of the air out.
Took it out on the road after fixing all of that and with the previous fixes it is so much better. No more stuck on heat, plenty of engine vacuum, turbo is fairly responsive. Adding a filter to the BOV quieted it down a bit. Steering is more precise, etc.
However, it seems the turbo is shot. Tons of smoke out of the tailpipe and from under the hood near the turbo. Apparently it is a Precision T62 with a 55mm wheel and dual ball bearings, so I'll have to send it out for repair.
I pulled the intake off and I cut the heat wrap off the turbo as I found a spot on one of the heat shields where oil had been sprayed from the turbo (it had been cleaned previously). Once I pulled the wrap off, I found the exhaust outlet flange gasket had disintegrated completely, which lined up perfectly with the oil spray from the turbo. The wrap was also burned in that area. I suspect the damned headerwrap caused the center section to fail due to excess heat. Needless to say it will all get ceramic coated before re-installation.
So to sum up, Header wrap is da devil, please don't use it, there are better solutions available without as many drawbacks.
Pics are coming shortly.
Sum pixxors of da turbo:
That's.... impressive. And also probably a large part of your not-so-ideal-for-autocross spool characteristics.
That beats the totally shot turbo i just took off my car.
May want to check all those surfaces with a straight edge while you're at it.
In reply to Swank Force One:
Yeah, even with a ball bearing center section, it won't be a "smooth" power curve.
I did find a hellacious lip where the exhaust crossover pipe connects to the input of the turbo, will probably take a die grinder to it before I send it off for ceramic coating (need to get the broken bolt out). So perhaps a little better exhaust flow into the turbo will help a little, but it is still way too big for this motor and is sized better for a 3.0L 16-valve motor, which was the ultimate goal of the PO.
turboswede wrote: In reply to Swank Force One: Yeah, even with a ball bearing center section, it won't be a "smooth" power curve. I did find a hellacious lip where the exhaust crossover pipe connects to the input of the turbo, will probably take a die grinder to it before I send it off for ceramic coating (need to get the broken bolt out). So perhaps a little better exhaust flow into the turbo will help a little, but it is still way too big for this motor and is sized better for a 3.0L 16-valve motor, which was the ultimate goal of the PO.
While i'm looking at this....
Is this the downpipe?
Yup. Gasket failed badly. Very crunchy. More lip to clean up. :/
It's not so much the gasket or lip i have a problem with....
That bolt hole in the bottom left is kindof bad news.
Does this car have a wideband on it?
Yeah, it has a wideband and I have the tuning software for the Wolf3D software along with the special serial cable. I'm curious to do some data logging on it once it is running again, I'm curious about how well it has been tuned and what tuning options are available.
The bottom left bolt hole was ground down apparently for clearance purposes. I'll probably shore that up somehow and use a stud in that spot as should have been in the first place.
Ah ok... was wondering if you had previously seen what the wideband was reading, as pre-sensor exhaust leaks are no bueno on turbo cars.
Considering the vacuum leaks the car was suffering and how rich it was running across the range before I fixed those issues and then found the turbo puking oil, I'm confident that it wasn't run lean in the short drive I took around the block at sedate road and engine speeds.
It is a concern though and if the bottom end is broken, then it is broken and I'll have to step back and punt.
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