I'd try the bypass of the neutral safety switch before you do the new solenoid, but that's just me... Anyway, great job breathing new life into that old beastie!
I'd try the bypass of the neutral safety switch before you do the new solenoid, but that's just me... Anyway, great job breathing new life into that old beastie!
Are you aiming to use this car as a autocross car?
Progress stalled!
We got hammered with a snowstorm last week, and then again on the weekend. Hours after this picture you couldn’t even see a car, it was just snow. Drat!
Updates!!!
Whilst chasing down the still no-start issue it was pointed out that grounds could be an issue. The Javelin’s starting circuit has the negative battery cable going straight to the engine (which has been replaced) and a ground strap going from the engine to the frame (which hasn’t, due to a seized bolt). So I added this ground strap from the terminal to the frame for now. (I will find a better spot for it later). I also made a permanent ground strap for the starter solenoid’s 5th post, as the original neutral safety switch no longer works, which is what was preventing the solenoid from engaging.
Special thanks to pres589 for the assist on this thread: http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/i-need-help-starting-the-javelin/32616/page1/
Yes, that is another new solenoid. I’m 99% sure the other two are actually fine now that I’ve found the grounding problem. Still, they are cheap and everything in this car is old and has been sitting.
The big news is that the big 360 finally churns over! Granted it’s with a remote switch and not the key, but hey still progress!
For the first time (supposedly) in 28 years, there is fuel in the carb! Of course it then started to leak, but what did you expect? The motor has now successfully spun over enough to establish oil pressure and get everything re-lubed. The beast slowly awakens…
After all of that diagnosing and churning it was time to lay fire into the engine and hear the roar! Unfortunately I had no spark from the coil according to ye old timing light. According to the factory service manual, it’s either the coil has gone bust or the distributor isn’t telling it to. There’s some confusion as to whether or not this thing is points, so some investigation will be necessary. In the mean time, I have a new coil on order.
Thanks for reading! Next weekend is opening autocross, so I probably won't work on the Javelin again until the 19th.
The obvious solution is getting a breaker wheel onto the harmonic damper and setting up a Ford EDIS rig for coil on plug ignition.
Eventually? Heck yes! Not really, no, eventually it will get a self-contained Mallory or MSD distributor. I have been eyeing the new EFI setups that go on a carb intake from FAST...
Bleh.
Bleh to an EFI AMC Javelin? 
COPS would be neat, but AMC's are notorious for hot exhaust, I think they would die quickly. LS1-style individual coil isn't out of the question though.
Lot of cost in what you're talking about for inferior technology. Remote mount the coils, not coil on top of plug style, and the heat shouldn't be a big deal. LS1 style like you said. And using the breaker wheel can help you get the EFI set up.
Why not get an Edelbrock Victor Jr. or some other high rise manifold (hood clearance and such allowing, of course) and get a port injection setup going? The "looks like a carb but has injectors" throttle body setups are an improvement over carbs for sure but you still have to concern yourself with puddling and distribution issues. I don't know, easy for me to say, it isn't my time or money or effort we're talking about here... I wonder if you could use the distributor as a mechanism to deal with mounting an encoder wheel, and you probably still need something in there to deal with the oil pump. I don't know what that would do to accuracy vs. mounting it on the balancer, probably not helping but I don't know what sort of issues that would introduce.
I'd be tempted to track down a Hilborn-style intake for it (Inglese and Kinsler both make them and I think that Hilborn makes their ITB intakes with EFI as well), but I'm really not sure if anyone makes one for an AMC 360 V8, and if memory serves you could build an entire Challenge car, without selling anything, for less money than an EFI ITB intake for a V8 costs
AMC's have the oil pump integrated into the timing cover, which requires the distributor to work. I'd spend way too much time re-engineering all of that when really there is nothing wrong with a distributor.
Port EFI might be a good thing to try. I'm pretty sure Edelbrock actually already sells an intake for it.
The only part I have nailed down so far is that I really want to build my 401 to run on E85, since we have a station in town, and run some seriously stupid compression.
Find a high-rise with bosses cast into the intake for NOx injector nozzles and have a machine shop work magic on it with some blank fuel rail. The injection setups you're talking about are always really expensive and it seems like the hobbyist that can spend some time and learn what it takes to get these things working can spend a lot less on a system that is better tailored to his exact application.
Adapter a breaker wheel to a dizzy rotor mount. Drill a hole in the dizzy cap and mount a Hall Effect sensor through the cap. Right? I mean, what am I missing? Seems like a good solution that only looks extremely goofy, but it would give you an easy way to adjust timing since you could do it the same as with a rotor & points. There has to be some reason people aren't already doing this but I can't think of one, just never seen it done before. Get fancy with the Dremel & some epoxy and you could get rid of the plug wire towers from the cap, paint the whole thing semi-gloss black, and Bang!
Javelin wrote: There’s some confusion as to whether or not this thing is points, so some investigation will be necessary. In the mean time, I have a new coil on order.
Can you not just pull the distributor cap and look for points? It should take no less than a minute to be sure and they are pretty distinctive looking. Seems like a sure fire way to remove any confusion.....unless I am missing something here.
I know you want to keep to an AMC powerplant, but I really think this machine needs a 4200 vortec six.. NEEEDS IT!
That motor is in this nova.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUESVD-PnLo&feature=player_embedded
(well not that exact one, but close.)
ditchdigger wrote:Javelin wrote: There’s some confusion as to whether or not this thing is points, so some investigation will be necessary. In the mean time, I have a new coil on order.Can you not just pull the distributor cap and look for points? It should take no less than a minute to be sure and they are pretty distinctive looking. Seems like a sure fire way to remove any confusion.....unless I am missing something here.
That's what I'll do next time I work on it. I didn't look at it when I did the rotor/cap.
Hiya, I had a '69 Javelin in high school. Never ran right, until I did a pertronix, and outta the box 600 Holley vacuum secondary.Highly recommended, and not too expensive. I used a part designed for a points style chevy distributor. Very nice build.
Javelin wrote: AMC's have the oil pump integrated into the timing cover, which requires the distributor to work. I'd spend way too much time re-engineering all of that when really there is nothing wrong with a distributor. Port EFI might be a good thing to try. I'm pretty sure Edelbrock actually already sells an intake for it. The only part I have nailed down so far is that I really want to build my 401 to run on E85, since we have a station in town, and run some seriously stupid compression.
That will be super pimp, E85 on an injected 401. I hope you're also thinking ridiculously lumpy cam and an ear crusher exhaust.
BTW, what tranny are you going to run?
Sidepipes and a Mutha Thumpa cam for sure
It has a 727 Torque Flite now, but I have an AMC-spec T-5 for it. Yes, that will break immediately but then I can put in a new RS600 or T56 or Tranzilla built T5.
Something I've been thinking of as a remedy to the autotragic ...
What if you built a, say 727, but got rid of the park pin, got rid of neutral and put reverse on some seperate control. Then instead of a torque converter run a clutch (they do this on drag cars already) and put a big, sequential style gear lever on it. Set the auto shift points to 18,000 rpm or something so that it will never auto shift, ramp up the clutch pressures and you would have a ghetto sequential, no?
need parts?
http://slo.craigslist.org/cto/2257120874.html
Slyp_Dawg wrote: I'd be tempted to track down a Hilborn-style intake for it (Inglese and Kinsler both make them and I *think* that Hilborn makes their ITB intakes with EFI as well), but I'm really not sure if anyone makes one for an AMC 360 V8...
Hilborn FI on an AMC.
That's sinful.
That's Mark Donohue.
According to Donohue, the AMC F5000 engine make just under 500hp at 8000rpm, whereas the best Chevy they had previously made 480--the big difference was that the AMC engine was about 100 pounds heavier than a SBC. As I recall, the F5000 and T/A engines (5.0L max) were based on destroked 4.08" bore block (360) blocks with a Moldex crank. They ended up as 304s, but were not anywhere close to the 'street' 304, which was a 3.75" bore.
ST_ZX2 wrote: According to Donohue, the AMC F5000 engine make just under 500hp at 8000rpm, whereas the best Chevy they had previously made 480--the big difference was that the AMC engine was about 100 pounds heavier than a SBC. As I recall, the F5000 and T/A engines (5.0L max) were based on destroked 4.08" bore block (360) blocks with a Moldex crank. They ended up as 304s, but were not anywhere close to the 'street' 304, which was a 3.75" bore.
One Hundred Pounds??? Where do you hide that in the block and heads, for crying out loud? I was looking for some information on the F5000 engines last year and tried Googling "Franz Weisz" (sp?) but got nowhere. He must be gone now.
You'll need to log in to post.
