Haha I appreciate the comments. The play carpet was discussed at the time I decided on turf haha. One day It'll be really nice to have a fitted carpet back in the car. I think it'll clean up some of the visible rough edges. However... there is more development I want to do first!
Alright, time for an update.
First, ground point and MAP passthru:
Next, I needed a longer throttle cable. I bought a 36" generic cable from ebay for $10, and a threaded cable end, quick release, and loctite from Pegasus for more than $10.
After inspecting the stock Pinto cable, I found that I could work the cable out of its firewall mounting bracket. This allowed me to drill out the crimped section, and glue my new cable sheath in. After plenty of mix and match:
Next a throttle cable bracket, and return springs:
Next up, vacuum connections. I was planning to use 3mm ID silicone hose for the internal map sensor in the ecu. However I got caught up thinking about wall deflection, and have heard horror stories about collapsing tubing. Therefore I decided to use harder lines. After digging through my spares, I found spool of nylon oil pressure gauge tube. 30 seconds in boiling water and a hang overnight with some washers on the end had the line straight enough for use. The silicone line was still useful for couplers. After new throttlebody and IAC gaskets, then measuring and cutting lines for the fuel pressure reg, the brake booster, and the pcv, we ended up here:
After that, I jumped the fuel pump until I heard the fuel returning into the tank. Surprisingly, I didn't find any fuel leaks. Time to hook up any electrical that will be covered by the manifold.
Next let's find the crank angle for the tune. I interpret this picture to mean 305° before the first tooth after the gap (after TDC). It's a 36-1 trigger wheel and 5 1/2 teeth are between the sensor and the gap. By my math that is 55° (so 360-55=305). Please jump in and correct me if I have misinterpreted how to determine this angle.
Next, keeping the engine at TDC, drop the cam syncronizer in with the plastic tool on top to ensure alignment:
Finally, put everything back together, install upper manifold, change the oil/filter, and refill the coolant:
You, Sir, are a tease.
When is the first injected start scheduled for?
In reply to Piguin :
Haha I'm glad you're anticipating it as much as I am. First, a modification to the STMPro ECU. When using a VR sensor for the crank sensor, and a HALL sensor for the cam sensor, a pin on the VR conditioner needs to be removed (Out 2). Here are some pictures:
For the record this also shows a 5V jumper for ignition outputs, 12V jumper for the tachometer output, VR jumper for the crank, and HALL jumper for the cam. It also shows both pull up resistors off.
In reply to Shavarsh :
I'm going to copy your homework later.
After a bit of cranking I decided to check some things.
1. All injectors and coils are wired to the correct output. This was tested by forcing the outputs on in diagnostic mode.
2. I forgot that I was working on a Ford, and used the wrong #1 cylinder to put the cam sync in on the compression stroke. This has been fixed (it was 180° out).
3. After realizing the crank trigger offset has a range of -360 to 360, I changed the crank trigger offset angle to -55°.
4. The battery has been acting funky due to sitting for a few months, its now on a trickle charge.
5. Removing the 1/2" ratchet and socket from the crank really helped free things up...
6. After doing some tooth logging I switched the wires to the VR sensor, and changed the edge to rising.
7. I confirmed crank angle offset with a timing light during cranking, with timing locked at 0°. I only observed one flash of the light during cranking.
8. The engine will now cough a bit at first, then crank and crank. I need to confirm spark after the first revolution.
9. I can achieve a good tooth log and composite log, but after saving, and reloading, the files are unreadable. This is currently my focus.
Stay Tuned...
Shavarsh said:Stay Tuned...
to this thread? berkeleyin' right i am.
In reply to Shavarsh :
9 Things to check on your 302 powered, IRS Pinto.
Number 5 will shock you!
You are almost there
The ECU builder has been helpful over email. He suggested I upgrade the firmware to help sort out some of my communication issues. After trying a new cable and resetting the board, I was able to successfully upgrade the firmware. With the new cable I can properly download tooth logs and data logs. Now to look for the smoking gun... There is likely a value in the tune somewhere that doesn't make sense. I built the base map from looking at a ms3 basemap from a similar setup, but without CNP ignition. Without any experience setting these tunes up, I'll just have to keep looking until something jumps out. Screen grab for relevance:
It starts and idles!
big thanks to Nukem for looking at some data logs and getting my brain on track thinking about the cam sensor phasing. It turns out that tunerstudio expects the cam trigger to go low first, then high. This value looks like it can be changed in other versions, but is grayed out in tunerstudio ms when using speeduino.
When installing the cam sync, I used the Ford tool to put the synchronizer in at TDC on the compression stroke of #1. This results in a signal that goes high first. After figuring this out, I reinstalled the cam sync on the exhaust stroke with the Ford tool. After a couple cranks, I found the throttle blade had been completely shut, and I'm not sure if this IAC is functioning correctly. So I tried flood clear mode, and she started and idled!
berkeley yeah!
How does it sound?
Has it mellowed?
Not that I am in any way angling for a video of it running, especially once you figure out the throttle issue so you can rev it. No sir.
The IAC is now making proper noises, and we have consistent starts. I was having a hard time getting the idle to settle down, so I've set the AFR targets for the whole map at 13.0 for now so I can chase the VE values a bit easier. I'm also using a very simplified and blocked out timing map. With EGO correction off, and idle control off, I'm slowly making my way through the zero load areas of the map. One issue is a random RPM spike that I get occasionally at idle. The crank sensor is wired with shielded wire, but does pass by the injectors, and goes into the same harness at the firewall as the injector and coil wiring. When the rpm spikes (sometime as high as 16k) the engine dies as the computer tries to keep up. I'm going to look into some other options for cleaning up the signal before running another wire for the crank sensor. One thing I'm not sure about is the crimp connectors I used to attach the pigtail. Those seem like a nice large target for electrical noise. Suggestions are welcome.
In other news the fans are cycling nicely, and the overflow bottle is doing its job, and shows signs of fluid moving in and out .
In reply to Shavarsh :
I'm no electrical engineer but typically crank signals in OE harnesses are shielded or at least a twisted pair right? You doing anything like that?
Where/how did you terminate the shields on that wire running to the crank sensor? I've never wired a crank sensor, is the body of the sensor bonded to the chassis or is it plastic or floating? I'm wondering if the shield is floating and not providing much in the way of EMI protection.
Good questions. The sensor wire is a shielded twisted pair. The shield is grounded near the ecu to an ecu ground that terminates at the cylinder head with all other grounds. Then from there there is a ground strap to a weld nut on the firewall.
Edit: The crank sensor body is plastic.
Sounds like you did everything by the book. Hmm...
Can you share your trigger settings in Tunerstudio?
In reply to Shavarsh :
Having an on-purpose shield ground would be the required method at one of the aircraft companies I've worked. Not at my current one, though, so it's not a universal requirement apparently.
I'm wondering if you're receiving similar EMI-induced signal issues on other inputs to the ECU. Also odd that it's intermittent and not observable more/most of the time.
After consulting the the ECU builder, he is concerned that running 12v in from the cam sensor may damage the ECU. Unfortunately after changing over to 5v there doesn't seem to be a change in the signal noise. I have been running the cam trigger on "single tooth" settings and it turns out I should have been using "poll level" (this option also gives access to the grayed out high/low option hah!). I haven't had a chance to test a change in that setting, but I don't have high hopes that it will solve all my problems.
pres589,
The shield definitely has a purposeful ground, its grounded along with the rest of the ECU grounds through an 8ga cable to the cylinder head. Is that what you mean?
The noise is actually observable all the time if I turn the software noise filter off. When it's on, only the large spikes make it through.
Remember page 11, when I changed to "racing" plugs? Well, those plugs are not resistor type. Which I have recently learned can be a big issue. New Autolite 3924 plugs incoming.
Shavarsh said:The shield definitely has a purposeful ground, its grounded along with the rest of the ECU grounds through an 8ga cable to the cylinder head. Is that what you mean?
The noise is actually observable all the time if I turn the software noise filter off. When it's on, only the large spikes make it through.
I don't think so, no. Imagine three classes of ground; signal/shield grounds, case grounds, and power grounds. We're talking about a shield ground with this wire. Case grounds is the metallic housing running to a ground. Power grounds are pretty self-explanitory. You would have all of the grounds of each class of ground running to their own ground location. Meaning, a power ground (the power return from a component) going to their own ground studs or terminal block, same with case grounds, and then shield grounds going to a third ground location.
To put it another way, a case ground wouldn't go to the same ground location as a shield ground or a power ground, and etc etc. Three different ground studs or terminal blocks etc for a system with case grounds, shield grounds, and power grounds. The goal is to not inject noise into the things you're trying to keep noise out of.
Again, not everywhere I've worked does this, but one of the big ones does, and I like the practice. Again, I'm an engineer, not a technician, so there may be better shop practices that 'get the job done'.
EDIT: Noticed your last post about the resistor/non-resistor plugs. Good catch. There may also be EMI issues created by sub-optimal plug wire routings. There may be a better way to route the wires to try and keep that source to a minimum; factory method should show the way here.
In reply to pres589 (djronnebaum) :
Thank you for the explanation of three types of grounds.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
You have no idea how pedantic it feels to type up something about that about grounds. Next up, a discussion on wire naming schemes (yes that's real, no it's not fun).
In reply to pres589 (djronnebaum) :
That's very interesting. Most motorsport writeups I have seen tout the benefits of star point grounding at the cylinder head. If 3 grounding blocks are used, how are each terminated to the battery?
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