Pretty satisfied with idle and revving up in neutral, so I took it for a drive to get some load logging! I would say the intakes make almost as much noise as the exhaust, at least from the perspective of the driver's seat. Turns out I had the wrong MAP scale so it was going pretty lean with any amount of load. Oops. This is so fun though. I signed up for a car show this weekend so I guess I have to keep driving and tuning it.
In reply to stafford1500 :
I'll msg you!
Made it to the show! Engine is happy with idle and cruise, but I haven't spent any time on load. It sounds absolutely glorious! I had major doubts that the sound would change much, but I was wrong. Totally changed the character of the car. I might pay someone to tune it properly on a dyno. Also considering a Alpha-N tune vs the speed density I'm running now. It seems happy enough on speed density but I'm open-minded to whatever is best
Have you explored "itb mode" for Ms yet? It's map at idle , alpha N at high throttle %, with blend curve between. Being a single map, you can use auto tune on it, too. You should have some decent logs from current conditions to build a base map with, too
In reply to maschinenbau :
You don't have the vvti block from what I can tell. The VVti block has a prominent oil port for the vvti solenoid under the water neck. You don't have that port. Additionally, "weak" is relative. People who call the rods "weak" are speaking from the turbocharging with a gazillion psi boost perspective. You're not turboed so you're good to go. As a matter of fact, for an NA setup, VVTi engine would have been much better. BTW, the VVTi rods are rated for something around 450 WHp lol.
I have the VVTi engine, with a built bottom. My SC was one of the first SC/Supra (s) to keep VVTi and combine it with standalone engine management back in 2008/2009. Interestingly enough, it was common at the time for people who had a VVTi engines, and wanted to go turbo, to swap out the head for a regular head. When I tuned the engine, I saw at least 100 ft.lbs more torque with VVTi vs non-VVTi. VVTi heads are really powerfull in the right hands.
maschinenbau said:Coil on plug conversion. These early non-turbo 2JZ-GE engines came with a distributor. There are many options for converting to coil-on-plug, but off the shelf kits can be pricey. Many of them use Audi R8, Nissan R35 GT-R, IGN-1A, or even Chevy truck coil packs. Except for the GM parts, none of these are easy to find used or in your local parts store. I wanted to use the GM coils, but the aftermarket bracket doesn't fit my earlier head. I almost started building my own brackets for the truck coils. I definitely didn't feel like blowing $600+ on hard-to-find supercar coils and brackets, so I found an alternative. Apparently the VQ37 engines used the same coil internals as the R35 GT-R, but with a different shorter plug boot/stalk. These have been tested to be about as powerful as you can buy, short of the aftermarket IGN-1A coils (full video of tested coil packs: https://youtu.be/4d3nrBZjYKA). I found out that you can pull the boot off a 370Z coil and replace it with one from a BRZ/FRS. So this means I can just buy a set of 6 used 370Z coilpacks off eBay for $100, and a set of BRZ boots for $3 a pop on Rockauto that make them fit my engine, and always able to replace a coilpack at any parts store or junkyard. I don't know for that this will work, but it all fits together nicely.
You can see how much shorter the BRZ boots are compared to the 370Z ones. Even if you buy GT-R coils, you still need shorter boots, which the aftermarket kits provide.
With some trimming, the valve cover covers will still fit. I will modify the sheetmetal tray with some nuts for the new coils to screw into.
Soon: converting that distributor to a cam position sensor is as simple as dithcing the cap and rotor, and adding a nice cover plate.
Very cool discovery there on the 370 COP(s).
maschinenbau said:Front coilover upgrade complete and wow these ride so much better! I must have been bottoming out nonstop before because I am hitting bumps and potholes without a care that I normally swerve around in my Bilstein'ed Miata. I started out on setting 3 out of 18, then stiffened it up to 4 on the way. Plenty more stiffness there if I want it. VERY pleased with this upgrade!
This has to be my favorite part.
It looks like you're using the SC control arms (and steering). These control arms are crazy expensive now (700 a pop in 2021 when I replaced mine).
In reply to ralleah :
That seems like a good way to go. I just haven't spent enough time tuning it yet. I haven't even bought the full version of Tunerstudio. Does VE Analyze Live really work that well?
In reply to madmax98 :
Thanks, I like your SC build a lot too. Please don't go another 2 years between posts!
The longer I have this car, the more expensive its parts become. I started building in 2016 when you could just trade a beater station wagon for a 5 speed SC300. Those days are long gone, but I still love finding opportunities to save some dough the GRM way, like the 370z coilpack upgrade.
maschinenbau said:In reply to madmax98 :
Thanks, I like your SC build a lot too. Please don't go another 2 years between posts!
The longer I have this car, the more expensive its parts become. I started building in 2016 when you could just trade a beater station wagon for a 5 speed SC300. Those days are long gone, but I still love finding opportunities to save some dough the GRM way, like the 370z coilpack upgrade.
Haha thank you, I'll try updating more often, maybe once a year instead! lol
The ITB mode is worth looking into if (1) you have a good vacuum signal at idle, which it sounds like you do, and (2) changes in throttle angle near full throttle have minimal effect on MAP but a large effect on airflow.
Instead of trying more tuning, I remade the throttle linkage into a multi-function bracket that also mounts the GM 3-bar MAP sensor and the fuel pressure regulator, picking up on factory block and engine mount holes. The old linkage had very nonlinear pedal effort vs throttle position, so I built a bellcrank mechanism with oilite bushings, again repurposing the original 2JZ cable pulley. Pedal feels a lot smoother now, and it hides everything under the intake.
It's a complicated piece that bolts to multiple non-parallel planes.
Quick test of function (should be a GIF here):
A coat of paint and everything installed. I also bent and painted the dipstick tube.
Here you can see the vacuum tube in silver, snaking it's way between the throttles, then tees into the MAP sensor and the FP regulator.
It's BEAUTIFUL!
Also, now that I'm back in ATL I need to see this thing in person.
In reply to crankwalk (Forum Supporter) :
Come by anytime. I'm around this weekend. Feel free to PM me for contact info. Would love to see the Ferrari parked next to the Free Lotus Europa.
Sent you a PM. We need a mini GRM ATL meet
This is a glorious project if for your linkages alone!
Also, You made an index-Sweet!
Nice! I am currently trying to figure out my throttle linkage/cable....nothing is ever simple
Nothing says "turbo" like 3-bar map sensor. In for updates . . .
Still haven't touched any tuning after an incredibly busy few weeks, but I'm finally back in the garage.
I deleted the distributor for good with a piece of aluminum and some RTV. You can buy this part, or design and sendcutsend it, but I wanted it done in one night.
I recently dropped the air hose on the hot exhaust header, so I re-polished it along with the valve covers.
Forgot how shiny the covers can be! They oxidize very quickly though because they are magnesium.
I tried ceramic coat on my polished billet wheels and it slowed down the oxidation process incredibly. Wonder if that'd work on the Magnesium too. I know the billets didn't need polished for about a year on a vehicle stored outside at all times.
I may try that. I used Shark Hide last time but here we are. I wonder how ceramic reacts to the engine heat. I've never done ceramic coating before.
I use cquarts based on recommendations from here. Its the only one I've used, so my sample sizevis limited. But I really like working with it. Especially on polished metal and lighter paint colors. Makes cleanup a whole lot easier.
I had fallen behind on this thread. What a good Monday morning!
I finally did it! I made all the gauges work, after having them for like 2 years. I had to install a new sending unit inside the tank, which meant deleting the Lexus one and cleaning up some past JB Weld related mistakes.
I drilled out the old electrical connector, which I had sealed up about 6 years ago. I tapped the holes and plugged them with 1/8" NPT plugs.
I also aligned it properly with my new Tenhulzen kit. Camber was uneven causing a steering pull, and toe was slightly out instead of in. It tracks much straighter now. I started looking at installing the heater, but then I decided to buy the full version of Tuner Studio and start driving it again. I switched to ITB mode, changed none of the default settings, and let it start tuning itself. It needed a little help in some lean spots of the table at first, but it's been working grat and now it runs better than ever!
For the first time in this long build and ownership, this car actually feels fast to me. It pulls friggin hard all the way to redline, which I have set at 6500 for now. And that sound... Planning to take it to a 1/8th mile strip next month.
That is SO fine.....this retro Rod ROCKS!!!
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