72 Triumph TR6 clutch job

Hey guys,

My father-in-laws clutch went out on his TR6. He doesn't have the money to fix it right now, and he is not mechanically inclined. I've replaced the clutch on air cooled VW's, Jeeps, and my 911. I've never done one on a Triumph but I'd like to help him out if I can.

Does anyone know where I can find a step by step process for the R&R of a TR6 clutch?

And for those that may have done it, how hard is it? And are their any tips I should know?

Thanks

Well, I have a TR-4 and had a GT-6, so when you add them up its close! I have found that its much easier to remove the engine and transmission together as a unit and change it that way, but it is possible to remove the transmission through the inside of the car.

The job itself is really simple and strait forward. I dont think you should have a problem. There shouldnt be any metric hardware, so its all standard stuff.

The Haynes brand shop manual is a good step by step source.

Leo

I don't know if I'd pull the entire engine... but I second just getting Hayne's manual and seeing what's involved. In a Spit/GT6, the trans is removed through the interior. I'd imagine in the TR4/6 it's dropped from below like a typical RWD car or your Jeep.

In a TR-6 the transmission can be removed through the inside of the car. You'll need to take out the seats, transmission tunnel, etc.

Tons of good information can be found here:

http://www.6-pack.org/j15/

Good luck, I'll be doing the same soon with my 72!

Contact your local british car club in tenn and fill beer cooler , get 4 ft sub from Publix invite everyone to help

Thanks guys. The car is in NC so I'll be traveling to do the work. Getting the local NC guys on board isn't a bad idea though.

Joe thanks for the link.

It's not that hard. Unless the engine is already out of the car, I pull the interior and tunnel cover. Even if it's not broken, replace the square-headed taper pin that holds the release bearing fork to the cross shaft. I usually drill/tap the cross shaft to accept a 3/8" fine thread grade 8 bolt instead. The tapered pin shears way to easily.

Another thing to look out for is aligning the gearbox to the engine. The factory used special bolts in two of the gearbox flange holes (on the sides) to center the gearbox over the clutch. I'm guessing these are long gone. The Roadster Factory provides pins that can be temporarily used to center things up and replaced with normal bolts after torquing the others. In my experience, this helps the clutch work smoother and last longer.

I haven't bought a clutch kit in a while, but the Borg & Beck kits were not the best quality 10 years ago. I'm using a B&B friction plate with a Sachs pressure plate from a Saab 900 and larger Koyo throw-out bearing. It's similar to the Roadster Factory magic clutch kit, but cheaper. Here's more complete info.

Good luck.