In reply to singleslammer :
About 31 inches long ( the 32 valve all aluminum one) I’d guess that Jaguar weighs about 340-360 pounds. Maybe 25-30 pounds heavier for the supercharged version.
You could eliminate some weight by using one of those small Japanese alternators. After all you won’t be air conditioning the Triumph or have it’s electrical load.
Plus a gear reduction starter is lighter but that probably isn’t within the budget.
wspohn
Dork
3/25/18 11:28 a.m.
Using a modern 4 cylinder makes it easier with less chopping needed.
You might consider a GM LE5 Ecotec (170 bhp) or if you don't mind the added packaging issues of a turbo, the LNF (260-500 bhp from stock to modded), or a Zetec or an Ecoboost, or a Nissan or Toyota or Honda with or wothout blower, of if your budget is higher an I6 Toyota 2JZ (up to 900 bhp or so......)
American V8s are so boring.....and while I have one car with a 1990s GM V6, there are so many other options now.
In reply to wspohn :
I think he’d like to keep it British, I know I would.
Not a lot of reasonable choices in that area. The Jag fits the bill and can be made to fit.
Stampie
UltraDork
3/25/18 12:46 p.m.
In reply to frenchyd :
The best British sports cars had American V8s stuffed into them.
Daylan C said:
Buick 3800 and t5 from an fbody?
I drove an early MGB with that swap, done by an aquaintance. It is berkeleying spectacular- not stupid power. It has the same low end grunt as you would get from the original 1800, just three times as much. Mellow, tractable, will spin the tires in three gears. I doubt the British axles will keep their splines for long.
I bet Challenge pricing would be easy peasy with this, too.
Stampie said:
In reply to frenchyd :
The best British sports cars had American V8s stuffed into them.
Hard to argue, but yes stuffed does sort of apply with a 90 degree V8 in a small British roadster.
K20a2 or K24a2 not exactly 225hp but close. Or if budget allows, F20c
VQ swap the world! 280hp, light, reliable, but hard to find cheap and a difficult wiring job.
I hear GRM staff have a 350Z engine they need to get rid of...
MGB {Ceres Motorsports} put a Zetec/T5/Bike carbs in an MGB. Looked pretty clean. Long thread on Focus Fanatics and MG Experience
wheelsmithy said:
Look into the Isuzu V6 from the last troopers/Rodeos. It is fuel injection, but a stout, aluminum mill that takes easy GM T-5s like out of Camaros, etc. The 3.5 might get 225 hp, the 3.2 is 200. It sounds weird, but these are mangy in the Pull-a-Parts. I want one. There was a GRM thread a while back. I was skeptical at first, too. I'll see if I can dig up links.
Interesting....
Got any information on dimensions and weight?
Trackmouse said:
Came to say 1uzfe. I did my swap for less than $1,250. I know, I’m a broken record. But I can’t find an easier way to that much power, mpg, and reliability.
Yeah, hearing all the talk about this engine always gets me interested. Two things, 1) transmission options and 2) I need to be all in under a grand to be challenge legal with the car.
Robbie said:
I have an extra 1.6l Miata and 5speed in the garage. You'd need a healthy turbo to hit your goals, but it'd be cheap!!
I like the cheapness of this suggestion, but don't think I'll be happy with LESS displacement than the original engine
Ian F said:
SBF is the "easy button" here, but there are many options...
Thanks for the reminder about that site.
Spent A LOT of time poking around on there
frenchyd said:
In reply to wspohn :
I think he’d like to keep it British, I know I would.
Not a lot of reasonable choices in that area. The Jag fits the bill and can be made to fit.
The idea of keeping it all British is appealing, but not necessary.
Ease of swap completion and low cost trump that
A lot of compelling reasons to go small block Ford...
Any other suggestions?
RossD
MegaDork
3/26/18 8:17 a.m.
twentyover said:
MGB {Ceres Motorsports} put a Zetec/T5/Bike carbs in an MGB. Looked pretty clean. Long thread on Focus Fanatics and MG Experience
The T-5 from a Lima has 3 bolts that match the Zetec bellhousing. I've considered using a plate (with 4 holes) to cover the top bolts of the bellhousing and machine the plate thickness out of the bellhousing itself. Bolt the plate to the block and the top two holes bolt to the bellhousing. Use the Lima's clutch, flywheel and starter. Relocate the crank sensor to the front of the engine and pick your fuel/spark controls. Bonus points for using a 170 hp SVT Zetec that has a lower intake manifold that is ready for adapting to ITBs.
Before you get excited about the adapter plate above, it requires an expensive offset flywheel and bespoke clutch, but I'm showing it to describe the bolt holes. The chamfered holes are the holes on the back of the Lima block. Notice there are 4 near the top (closest to the head), only the top two are used in the T-5 bellhousing. The lower two are used in the Zetec/CVH/SPI/Kent/Xflow pattern. The latter Zetecs (the common ones here in the USA. Early Contour/Mystique are the exception) lose one of the middle holes since they relocated the starter from below the crank's center line to above it. But I would just use the Lima's lower one with everything Lima. My 'plate' could even extend to that bolt but since that isn't connected to the bellhousing on the zetec, why bother.
The later Zetec bellhousing:
Indy-Barely Functional-Guy said:
Trackmouse said:
Came to say 1uzfe. I did my swap for less than $1,250. I know, I’m a broken record. But I can’t find an easier way to that much power, mpg, and reliability.
Yeah, hearing all the talk about this engine always gets me interested. Two things, 1) transmission options and 2) I need to be all in under a grand to be challenge legal with the car.
If you aren't 100% against an automatic, the stock 4 speed can be made to be manually shifted for like $0.25 in resistors and the Aussies have got tons of info on the 1UZ swapping into all sorts of stuff. I bought an entire running LS400 for $600 so just buy a parts car and cut and paste for probably really cheaply.
Robbie
PowerDork
3/26/18 8:36 a.m.
Indy-Barely Functional-Guy said:
Robbie said:
I have an extra 1.6l Miata and 5speed in the garage. You'd need a healthy turbo to hit your goals, but it'd be cheap!!
I like the cheapness of this suggestion, but don't think I'll be happy with LESS displacement than the original engine
I'm going from 1.8 mgb to 1.6 Miata and still planning to double the redline and HP with everything mostly stock.
Plus, with the Miata, you get basically the best shifting rwd trans ever, and a lightweight, compact package that is easy to swap in and source parts for later.
But I do understand. I'm starting with an i4. If I had an i6 stock I'd probably go with a bmw mill.
In reply to Robbie :
How much are L28's going for these days?
NOHOME
UltimaDork
3/26/18 9:42 a.m.
And the detailed build thread to go with the pics
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=592187&page=16
The tragic conclusion ( cause water went higher)
Robbie said:
Indy-Barely Functional-Guy said:
Robbie said:
I have an extra 1.6l Miata and 5speed in the garage. You'd need a healthy turbo to hit your goals, but it'd be cheap!!
I like the cheapness of this suggestion, but don't think I'll be happy with LESS displacement than the original engine
But I do understand. I'm starting with an i4. If I had an i6 stock I'd probably go with a bmw mill.
TR4 came stock with a 2.1 litre four cylinder.
TR6 had inline 6.
Robbie
PowerDork
3/26/18 10:51 a.m.
I haven't looked at britishv8 in a long time, and never specifically for tr4s. After another review, I vote 302/t5 - if you can fit it in budget. 302 should be easy, but the good t5s are a little more difficult to source.
Looks like almost everything fits quite well, and weight change is less than 50lbs (one person says lighter another says heavier).
Doesn’t somebody here have a 5.0 and T5 out of a 95 poontang?
NOHOME
UltimaDork
3/26/18 11:27 a.m.
If you go 5.0 in the TR6, what to do about the differential? While there, don't forget the TR6 Achilles heel of the diff mount being questionable at best.
A ford Racing T5 wi with t 2.96 first and .63 OD would work just fine for this application and all for the low-low price of only $1200 from Jegs. That would be my chosen route since pretty much every T5 I have driven is wounded and in need of a rebuild anyways.