Anyone here speak Holley Terminator X? Status LED question.

Trying to help a friend get his project  running with the Holley Terminator EFI system. Of course it is not going well. Starts but runs like crap.

One of the variables I would like to eliminate is the crank reductor wheel and cam timing detection. Holley has a note in the technical aid that describes the status of the LEDs for various engine conditions. 

If I read their words correctly, what I expect to see is #6 and #7 LEDs flashing from green to blue when the engine is cranking ( up to 400 rpm)  and both lights should go off when the engine is running, indicating that the crank and cam sensors are working and that the crank and cam are in synch.  Am I reading that correctly?

In my case, the two lights looked green to me while the engine was running. I had assumed green=good and not given it any thought until I went digging for more info and found the Holley prose.

• 6. Crank Signal - Green = Tooth Detected, below crank to run RPM (400RPM), Blue = Gap Detected, below crank to run RPM (400RPM), Red = Crank Error Detected, Off - Synced Properly.
• 7. Cam Signal - Green = Tooth Detected, below crank to run RPM (400RPM), Blue = Gap Detected, below crank to run RPM (400RPM), Red = Cam Error Detected, Off - Synced Properly.

I don't have a ton of experience and I hate to use it as much as anyone else, but when I need help I go to facebook, this group is a mix of helpful and annoying:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/2308375032560854/

Draysen Mead is a well known remote/dyno tuner and the nicest dude - he's helped me trouble shoot and tune my build. Holley EFI is so hit or miss it helps to have someone who speaks it fluently.
 https://www.facebook.com/MeadMotorsportsTuning

Last bit of advice, I've previously "fixed" my car by backing up my tune, updating the firmware on the handheld and the ECU and then re-initializing it. 

In reply to accordionfolder :

Thanks. I never expect this stuff to go easy. 

In reply to NOHOME :

I'll check what mine does if I get a chance tonight, but do you know what engine this is on? Your friend's sure he selected the correct tooth count on the crank? 

In reply to accordionfolder :

I assume nothing, but the knowledge of  two different reluctor wheels was a known variable from the start.

The engine is a plain jane 5.3 ls out of a silverado. Gen 3 for sure what year I do not know.

One of those situations where the car is half an hour drive away and work gets done once or twice a week as time allows. I was looking at the ECM LEDs when the engine was running ( it does run, but not idle worth a darn) and intuitively thought that they should all be green and I thought they were. I don't recall #6 and #7 going off when the engine was running.

In reply to NOHOME :

I would tick the firmware box if possible - Check what firmware everything is running and see how far out of date it is -  it's where I would start (if you guys haven't already, obviously). I had a handful of insane issues I chased for a while until I updated the firmware+re-initialization got me working. 

Starts and run like crap but the leds are all green when running? The wizard tune runs like crap until you actually smooth the timing table out with a laptop especially on cammed engines. I'd check that the injector data is correct, no vacuum leaks and that fuel pressure is right and then hook a laptop up to smooth things out. 
The self tuning is just closed loop fuel you still need to build your timing table. 

Going to go back at it tomorrow. Will have a closer look and video for clarity. 

Stand-by.

Most TermX problems are vacuum leaks, thinking the wizard tune is all you need and improper installation.  Those main power cables have to go directly to the battery.

In reply to RacetruckRon :

I learned about vacuum and exhaust leaks the hard way with the Fitech. Tomorrow the smoke machine goes on the throttle body and the shop vac blows air up the exhaust pipe to check for leaks at the header flange.

I still want to see the 8 LEDs with a known-good engine running. I want to confirm that #6 and 7 are off. I would have thought that was an easy ask on the Googles, but I guess not.

In reply to NOHOME :

My truck isn't running right now but I was looking back at an old video of my first start. Only 4 green lights when running. Video

NOHOME said:

Most of the issues with LS are not knowing if you have the 24x or 58x or have a mismatch of the two crank and cam patterns. Other systems have a logger that can help with wheel pattern but offhand I don't think Holley does.

RacetruckRon said:

In reply to NOHOME :

My truck isn't running right now but I was looking back at an old video of my first start. Only 4 green lights when running. Video

Thanks. That is exactly what I was looking for. Did not go to the shop tonight because weather is monsoon-like and I would rather not. I do want to get a clear video of the ECM LEDs to see if I can use it to sort this out.

The more I search the more I find about Holley crank and cam signal not syncing. No single cause and no simple solution.

The system and harness are for the gen 3 24 tooth wheel. One wants to assume that what was asked for is what was delivered, but there is that assume word. Going to add a "Check voltage at cam sensor to see if 5 or 12 volt". There have already been issues with the harness where the oil pressure sensor was shutting off reference voltage to the TPS. So, yeah...