Behold! The Millenium Falcon! (Mazda5 content)

I've had freezing weather keep the doors shut, but never open. Odd.

On the surge, auto or manual?

I never had any issues with my 5 associated with cold weather and doors.

Javelin wrote: I've had freezing weather keep the doors shut, but never open. Odd. On the surge, auto or manual?

Autotragic

seems like it bogs down and then takes off.

Apexcarver wrote:

Javelin wrote: On the surge, auto or manual?

Autotragic seems like it bogs down and then takes off.

Mine did that when I first bought it. I had a trans service done with a new filter and Amsoil's correct ATF for it and it went away.

I had the same frozen latch issue on a 2006 when it was new. There was a recall on the latch mechanism or seal. Dealer fixed it and it never happened again. You might want to check for a TSB and/or revised parts.

jv8 wrote: I had the same frozen latch issue on a 2006 when it was new. There was a recall on the latch mechanism or seal. Dealer fixed it and it never happened again. You might want to check for a TSB and/or revised parts.

Hm, I believe I had checked that and it was previously performed. Then it went out of my head. Looks like Remedy Failure... Interesting. Will have to see if Mazda will do anything after I verify that it was performed.

akylekoz wrote: My wife noticed a rattling noise from the engine in high gear/low load situations. Sounds like timing chain rattle to me. Serious problem or can I wait until it is louder. 2009, 5, 2.3, 135,000. If it was the cam phase thing that some of the older ones have a problem with it would be an at idle noise from what the interweb tells me.

My 2010 does the same thing - it's the accessory drivebelt tensioner pulley. Do a google search for a few how-to's. Cheap and easy fix.

So, after reading 19 pages of this, im reasonably certain that i wont be going wrong with getting my wife the 5 she wants.

Only rust ive seen noted is wheel wells, and failures are tires, struts, bushings and bullE36 M3. So, essentially the protege5 im used to....

Benswen wrote:

akylekoz wrote: My wife noticed a rattling noise from the engine in high gear/low load situations. Sounds like timing chain rattle to me. Serious problem or can I wait until it is louder. 2009, 5, 2.3, 135,000. If it was the cam phase thing that some of the older ones have a problem with it would be an at idle noise from what the interweb tells me.

My 2010 does the same thing - it's the accessory drivebelt tensioner pulley. Do a google search for a few how-to's. Cheap and easy fix.

I have been getting a rattle, in gear (Drive) when at a complete stop. That pulley is super easy to swap out, but I just did that not even 5k miles ago when replacing the thermostat housing. In principle I hope its not the noise I am hearing. But it would be a cheap fix.....

What is up with the belt stretching tool for these? Is it needed or useful for changing the tensioner idler.

akylekoz wrote: What is up with the belt stretching tool for these? Is it needed or useful for changing the tensioner idler.

The parts store tensioner tool doesn't work. Easier to unbolt the A/C compressor.

I got the recommended belt tool from rockauto. It worked, sorta. I just kept rotating the crank pulley andpushing the belt over till all the grooves on the belt were engaged properly. Took maybe 2 minutes tops to get the belt on. Removing the ac compressor sounds like a pain in the ass...or maybe putting it back on is.

You don't undo the lines or anything, just the 2 bolts. Took me maybe 5 minutes to change the belt once I figured that out.

Mazda5 Top Tip: when installing that Mazdaspeed3 rear anti-sway bar, use LOTS of anti-seize on the bolts the attach the brackets. One more salty winter and I may have had to resort to extreme measures to remove it.

Also, don't use the Moog "problem solver" endlinks - 40k miles and they're toast. The boots don't hold the grease in, and allow dirt and grit to get it. When I roll the joints around by hand I they have a little play and don't move smoothly. They have fittings to inject more grease, but I think the "standard" Beck-Arnley ones are superior.

[URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-12/20161209_195142_zpspsyxyopb.jpg.html][/URL]

7 days to delivery on our Christmas morning. All i have to do is everything.....

Stupid question time.

I cant seem to find wipers that dont suck.

The rear especially only actually wipes about 1/3 of the glass. What wipers work properly on these?

Mazda brand is the only one I've found for the rear that works well. I had already tossed the frame but possibly a blade inserted into that frame?

The mods have begun! I ordered all new KYB's for it today...

Has anybody swapped in the 2.5l in the 1st gen?

Nice! I need to order new struts for the ms6. sigh

My new winter wheels and tires.

Anyone ever replace the AC system on one of these?    Our compressor E36'd the bed (seized and threw the belt), so I am looking at compressor, lines, condenser, the whole shebang.

Here is how the 5 sits now. H&R springs with KYB monotubes, SPC rear camber arms, 18x9.5 Motegi Technomesh wheels with 245/40 Cooper RS3-A's. The fenders are rolled... Only other mods are a set of CorkSport LED foglights, and a larger rear wiper. 

SO - I realize that this is an ancient thread, but I'll be joining the ranks of Mazda5 owners soon - picking up a 2009 with 86k on it locally. It's been a city dweller its whole life, so has some dents and scratches, but seems to be mechanically sound and competent car-person owned for most of its life, so I think it will serve us well for our 2-5 year plan.

It will need front struts at least, rears are newish but I may do them all so that they match. It seems like most people here were using the KYBs, has anyone tried the Bilstein B4s? Not much price difference. How about the Konis? Might be overkill for kid shuttle duty, but who knows.

Well, here it is. So far I've pulled about 90% of that dent out and poked around to build a parts list. Nothing unexpected yet.