If you are going to track it, get Koni Sport Adjustables with a Ground Control coil over kit. The Konis last forever and are easily rebuilt and the GC kit allows for access to cheap generic Eibach racing springs swapping of spring rates so you can tune it to your preference.
Here are a couple of suspension and Mazda race part providers: http://awrracing.com/ http://mazdatrix.com/
Might also want to Google FC3S (the chassis code) as there is a specific forum with that in the domain. You can also search the Race sub forum on rx7club for others that have gone down this path before.
The Evo brakes do work with some modification if I read correctly but not sure if they retain the correct brake balance. You can probably also find a race shop to build you custom adaptors for Wilwood or other calipers and get the brake rotors made by Coleman to suit your needs. Surprisingly, their prices on custom rotors aren't too terrible.
Rangeball wrote:Osterkraut wrote: There are no "big brakes", really. You've got a few options: 86-88 4 lugs: Single piston front brakes, unvented rears 86-88 5 lug: 4 piston fronts, vented rears 89-91 N/A: Single Piston fronts, unvented rears (For 99% of them. The GTUs had all the turbo goodies without the turbo, and there's a rumor that some 91 Coupes [the only option for 91] came with the 4 pistons).I did some research on the FC a while back. I believe there is a big brake kit out that swaps in the EVO 8 brakes. I will see if I can find the thread...
I've seen that one. Why you'd want them, I have no idea. With the 4 piston fronts and good pads, FC's brake really, really well. Good enough they kept that setup for the FD...
Yup, my FC can run Laguna Seca (kills brakes) without fading just using cherry picked factory parts and good pads. If you want to do an LS1, then yeah, you might end up going bigger.
My '86 Sport flooded numerous times due to a problem with the stock fuel injection. A common problem that NOW, 15 years later, ther'es a workaround for, but was part of why it dies an early death. I had built rotaries before, worked on rotary racing teams, etc, but that didn't stop the car from lunching an apex seal for no reason. They don't ping easily, but one little ping from running lean can make them destroy their innards. And the later 13B was much more expensive to rebuild than the earlier 13B or 12A. A lot of rotary fans think that it's simply ignorance that causes some of them to die, and that it's even greater ignorance to replace the dead rotary with a V8. Not always the case.
I have to agree with the consensus that the factory 4 piston brakes work just fine with good pads, and will work fine whether you're using a built up turbo rotary or V8.
Oh, and here's some shots of one with 17x8s and 17x9s under stock fenders before he went widebody and REALLY big wheels:
If I do pounce on that GXL I was mentioning earlier, I will need to fool around with the TPS. Apparently, it runs at 1500rpm even after warming up and it was rejected for inspection because of the noise it makes (stupid Massachusetts following Cali's inspection laws...). I guess I could use that as a bargaining chip.
I have an '89 RX-7 that I race when I can. You can fix any of the reliability issues that the car might have, which aren't many. The main thing is just that people don't know anything about rotaries, so they don't keep them up. (Well that and the overheating.)
But they're great track cars. Miatas are great as well, but my car is faster and handles just as good as the Spec Miatas out there.
Scooter, what suspension are you running?
I really enjoy my '89 FC. It started life as a GTU (base model), but I retrofitted the 4-pot brakes. A 4.30 clutch-type rear is on the list for next year.
Stance coilovers are a pretty good budget option. By the time you get Konis plus the GC kit you're over a grand without camber plates. Toss in a set of GC camber plates and you're up around $1300. I paid just under $1100 for my Stance setup with custom spring rates. They're very beefy and well made. The shock valving isn't perfect, but off-the-shelf Koni valving isn't perfect with high spring rates either.
If you pick up an FC you should join the Mazda Motorsports program (mazdamotorsports.com). It's free, and you'll save a ton of money on parts.
As for the car in general, the first priority is a full tuneup. Spark plugs, plug wires, O2 sensor, vacuum lines, belts, rad flush, thermostat, coolant hoses. Get the engine good and clean as well so that you can see if anything is leaking. Make sure your MOP (Metering Oil Pump) system is working. If unsure, you can premix a bit to ensure good lubrication of the apex seals (search 'premix' on rx7club.com for tons of reading on this subject).
If it hasn't been done already you should replace all the bushings. Suspension, engine mounts, trans mounts (including the the main 'saddle' mount), diff mounts, and perhaps even the rear subframe mounts if they're dicey. Go with urethane for the suspension, and at least the 40% stiffer Mazda competition drivetrain mounts. These cars are old, and the stock rubber will be crap by now. Put in the DTSS eliminator bushings in the rear. It's not hard with time and the right tools. You'll be amazed at how much better the car feels and responds with fresh bushings all around.
Ongoing, ALWAYS be aware of your engine temps. Heat will kill a rotary dead in no time flat. Also, pay attention to your 2nd gear synchro. This is a weak spot in FC trannies. I've had good luck with NEO Synth gear oil, but just had to have mine rebuilt with 95k miles on it (it has been used hard all of it's life).
Power-wise, the first thing to do is to check out the main cat. If it's original, chances are that it's starting to get fouled. Mine was pretty clogged by 90k. Magnaflow sells a reasonable replacement cat w/downpipe that replaces everything between the stock manifold and the y-pipe. It runs about $140 and is a good compromise if you can't afford the Racing Beat header + replacement cat. If you live in a state that doesn't do emissions testing, look into the Racing Beat true-dual exhaust. Good power gains there. For about $400 you can get an RTek modified ECU. It has programmable fuel and timing maps in the stock ECU case and can help dial in your tune for best power. Your gas mileage will improve too!
Good luck!
CLH wrote: I really enjoy my '89 FC. It started life as a GTU (base model), but I retrofitted the 4-pot brakes. A 4.30 clutch-type rear is on the list for next year. Stance coilovers are a pretty good budget option. By the time you get Konis plus the GC kit you're over a grand *without* camber plates. Toss in a set of GC camber plates and you're up around $1300. I paid just under $1100 for my Stance setup with custom spring rates. They're very beefy and well made. The shock valving isn't perfect, but off-the-shelf Koni valving isn't perfect with high spring rates either. If you pick up an FC you should join the Mazda Motorsports program (mazdamotorsports.com). It's free, and you'll save a ton of money on parts. As for the car in general, the first priority is a full tuneup. Spark plugs, plug wires, O2 sensor, vacuum lines, belts, rad flush, thermostat, coolant hoses. Get the engine good and clean as well so that you can see if anything is leaking. Make sure your MOP (Metering Oil Pump) system is working. If unsure, you can premix a bit to ensure good lubrication of the apex seals (search 'premix' on rx7club.com for tons of reading on this subject). If it hasn't been done already you should replace *all* the bushings. Suspension, engine mounts, trans mounts (including the the main 'saddle' mount), diff mounts, and perhaps even the rear subframe mounts if they're dicey. Go with urethane for the suspension, and at least the 40% stiffer Mazda competition drivetrain mounts. These cars are old, and the stock rubber will be crap by now. Put in the DTSS eliminator bushings in the rear. It's not hard with time and the right tools. You'll be amazed at how much better the car feels and responds with fresh bushings all around. Ongoing, ALWAYS be aware of your engine temps. Heat will kill a rotary dead in no time flat. Also, pay attention to your 2nd gear synchro. This is a weak spot in FC trannies. I've had good luck with NEO Synth gear oil, but just had to have mine rebuilt with 95k miles on it (it has been used hard all of it's life). Power-wise, the first thing to do is to check out the main cat. If it's original, chances are that it's starting to get fouled. Mine was pretty clogged by 90k. Magnaflow sells a reasonable replacement cat w/downpipe that replaces everything between the stock manifold and the y-pipe. It runs about $140 and is a good compromise if you can't afford the Racing Beat header + replacement cat. If you live in a state that doesn't do emissions testing, look into the Racing Beat true-dual exhaust. Good power gains there. For about $400 you can get an RTek modified ECU. It has programmable fuel and timing maps in the stock ECU case and can help dial in your tune for best power. Your gas mileage will improve too! Good luck!
Thanks,
The more I think about it the more I think I'll go with an NA. Most of my first hand knowledge on FC's comes from my local Pick N Pull so excuse my ignorance on the finer points.
Where is the MOP? I've heard of people running just the MOP on the street and two stroke oil on the track. Is that a good plan? Seems to me that premix is a good way to foul a cat and screw up the O2 sensors.
I've never heard of the Stance coilovers. I was looking at the Megan Racing Coilover setup that runs $940 with camber plates.
Are the tranny/engine/diff bushings reliability issues or just for feel?
I didn't know the comp program covered old cars like FCs, that's awesome.
It covers all Mazdas, doesn't it?
This thread makes me miss my FC
Avoid the Megans. Budget coilovers.
Do it the grassroots way with revalved Bilsteins and Ground Control coilovers. Cheaper, and superior. No 1342-way adjustments for bling, though.
I run a 400 rwhp turbo FC in endurance road racing. I've run the same engine for the last three years. Proper fueling is key to the rotarty staying together. I'm currently 2305 lbs, running on 255 40 17 yokohama A005 slicks: Here's my website- www. rxracing.com -(I know, I should update it).
Basically, here's my $0.02: Join Mazda Motorsports Do a tune up. Drive the car hard for a while as is. Fix only what bothers you. If you want to step it up, start turning it into a hardcore track car like I did.
enjoy, -Trent
The MOP is on the right side of the engine's front cover. I have run premix on FI motors with no O2 sensor ill effects. Dunno how it works with catalysts, though. 
I generally leave the MOP in place and run a 75:1 premix as well. I do that mostly because the Dellorto on my 12A runs rich at big throttle openings (it's supposed to) and i was a bit concerned about the extra fuel diluting the oil spray (more like a dribble) from the MOP.
TrentO wrote: I run a 400 rwhp turbo FC in endurance road racing. I've run the same engine for the last three years. Proper fueling is key to the rotarty staying together. I'm currently 2305 lbs, running on 255 40 17 yokohama A005 slicks: Here's my website- www. rxracing.com -(I know, I should update it). Basically, here's my $0.02: Join Mazda Motorsports Do a tune up. Drive the car hard for a while as is. Fix only what bothers you. If you want to step it up, start turning it into a hardcore track car like I did. enjoy, -Trent
Your car's McNasty with Cheese.
What "bothered" you before you started that crazy build? I assume you've had FCs before.
I should probably say what my performance goals are. There are some guys who run my home track in bone stock Porsche GT3s. I'm a better driver than any of them, or at least I assume so because good drivers I've competed with before in midly modded, 300 hp WRXs on coilovers and RT615s are keeping up with them.
I want to pass them ...
TheBen, I hear you. I have been on the look out for a track car as well. Albeit mine is three years away. The FC is an awesome car and can easily fit an LS1 under the hood. Parts are generally cheap and plentiful too. I looked at these for awhile but kept getting discouraged on the RX-7 forum when people informed me more about the suspension.
I know this is not a terribly popular car on the forum yet but I am willing to bet in a few years a lot of people will be saying Solstice. I just wanted to throw that in here. BTW, apparently you can fit 315 hoosier slicks on all four corners of a Solstice...
Rangeball wrote: I looked at these for awhile but kept getting discouraged on the RX-7 forum when people informed me more about the suspension.
What's wrong with the FC's suspension? I thought part of the reason people liked them is because they handle so well.
Something with adjusting the toe in on the rear. I can't quite remember exactly but I thought I heard there is a fix for it now.
FC's were designed/built when 4 wheel steering was the rage and they have passive rear steering. There's bushing kits to fix it and AFAIK it's legal for any SCCA class except Stock AX or Showroom Stock road race.
More info here:
http://mazdatrix.com/faq/rrsteer.htm
I heard about the 4WS system on the FC's, I just wasn't sure that was what Rangeball was referring to.
Anyways, I like the '87 GXL I'm looking at. The owner changed the oil every 2K miles and recently did a fluid flush and refill in the radiator, transmission, and rear diff. I need to do some figuring as to how much it'll cost to repair the interior theft damage and how to fix the high idle. I can't find the TPS adjustment screw and I didn't have anything on me to test the vaccuum hoses. Those should be pretty fresh on a rebuilt engine swapped in 10K miles ago, shouldn't they?
It depends on which TPS you are looking at as to the position, or even existence, of a TPS screw. Some of them slide on the mounting screws.The idle speed screw is generally under a rubber plug on top of the throttle body. I wouldthink the vacuum hoses would be in pretty good shape on a 10k old rebuild, but you never know.
Jensenman wrote: The idle speed screw is generally under a rubber plug on top of the throttle body.
So that's where it is! I saw that rubber plug, but I didn't know what it was for. I doubted the idle was caused by the vaccuum hoses or throttle body because of the recent rebuild and because the idle didn't fluctuate. The high idle was the only reason the car failed for emissions. I still have some math to do on fixing the interior, but that helps a lot. Thanks!
Another nice thing about the 2nd gen RX-7's is that you can get a after-market plug and play computer system that will allow you to control timing and fuel for cheap. Go to www.digitaltuning.com for more info. Ask for Mike if you call, good guy and personal service when you call.
Unfortunately they aren't available for my first gen GSL-SEs so I am going with megasquirt.
-Greg
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