Fender rolling tips?

I just need enough to make the turn, on the front edge of the front wheel well. Probably would have been fine, but I moved the body back half an inch on the frame because I needed it elsewhere. Tires are the same diameter as original, but considerably wider.  Wheel well has a half inch 90 deg flange in front (the rest folded in some time ago). Paint is 2 yrs old, fender metal 50 yrs old and relatively thick. 

So can I roll the flange in, and then the flare out a little without messing the paint up? If so, what do I need in terms of tools and technique?

Other than the front edge when turning, fit is fine.  The back is a little snug, but well located, I think it will be fine. 

So do I have a chance of rolling the front wheelwell edge without messing up the paint? If so, what do I need to do it. My temporary spray booth is long gone, so while touch up is possible, it would be a pain, and I would have to wait til the weather warms up (no heat in shop).

Michael

How lucky do you feel?

Cheap:  Heat the paint SOME with a heat gun.  Put a baseball bat between the tire and the fender.  Have your helper VERY SLOWLY roll the car as you control the baseball bat.

More Expensive:  Buy, rent, borrow one of those professional roller systems that you put on the car and roll the fender with.

Be gradual.

I ended up rolling the fenders out a couple inches on the RX-7 to clear 225/50-15s.  Paint never cracked.  I used a baseball bat and patience.

Rust did start forming after I cut the fenders after i moved the axle centerline forward, tho.

The tools are cheap enough now that i would just buy one on ebay. Maybe sell it on CL after you have actually driven the car and run it through its full range of steering + compression travel to verify that it's actually fixed. 

Be gradual and use heat to keep the paint from cracking are the big things. 

I had no idea those things were now $35 on ebay.  A baseball bat will be a significant percentage of that.  If I had to do that today, I would just get the ebay version.  Good thing I only deal with fiberglass cars now.

I had no idea either, ordered one at 36.95 shipped. 

I have nothing to add, other than NICE DATSUN !, and A cheap fender roller is now on my want list. 

But yes, delicately heat, and gently roll.

One word- heat. The hotter you can get it without bubblingthe paint, the better. Go slow, go evenly. 

My 25 year old paint cracked, not enough heat and I went too fast.  Rolling on a hot day would help too, it was probably 45 degrees when I did mine.

Heat and seal the inner fender with something afterward.  Fantastic that the right tool got cheap.  A second a set of hands and copious heat carefully applied.  

I bought the Eastwood roller and it worked on an E46, so it's pretty stout.  I'd venture a guess that putting some grease on the threads and running it through it's range of motion a few times would be a good investment on the <$40 version, which looks identical to the Eastwood kit.

How to roll fenders.

1. Cut fenders with Sawzall

2. Install flares(preferably box flares)

3. Profit!!!!!!!!!!

:-)

Sounds like a point and shoot thermometer would be useful.

Re flares, the rear is usually the limiting factor, with a 195 tight on a stock fender.  I spread the back when I was doing bodywork, here is a 235/50/15 R888R on a 9" wheel. The front 225's will just stick out a little.

Michael

I ended up buying a roller, think I paid 60 bucks. 

It always kills me how cheap these are now. I spent like 350 bucks on my Eastwood many moons ago. It is now bent and stolen(so....presumably still bent) but I made a decent wad with it . Did loads of cars