patgizz
UltimaDork
9/20/16 4:54 p.m.
the 280z has box body turbo coupe rear discs. my issue is in the calipers, it has parking brakes and there are no cables or provisions on the car. they're dragging hard enough that when i have the car up, run it up to 50 and drop it into neutral it stops the rear wheels immediately.
is there a replacement caliper with no parking brake provision? i need to get this done ASAP because the car needs to be at the challenge next week.
Are you thinking that the lack of P-brake cable is causing the dragging? That doesn't make sense to me. An AT equipped car could go a whole lifetime without being applied.
We're the pistons reset correctly when they were installed?
My only suggestion would be to disassemble the caliper and remove parts from it to disable the parking brake function then reassemble.
I have go so far as to remove all of the parts except the piston and then inserted a steel plug in the hole left by removing the lever that the cable moves. I then braze the plug in to seal the hole up. Never had an issue with doing this. I have never done an aluminum caliper but since I can weld aluminum I don't see a problem there either.
Short answer is no. Only the 87 and 88 Turbo Coupes had the rear discs, and they were all integrated parking brake. The 83-86 were drum and the 89+ cars were the MN12 chassis. The only true fox Mustang with discs was the 84-86 SVO and the 93 Cobra, both of which use the same style as the TC. The 94+ SN95 cars are all also integrated parking brake, including the Cobra. Even the stuff Ford and Mazda did together, like the Mazda3, uses the same style. Unless you do something like a lightweight drag-race style conversion kit from SSBC or similar, I think you are stuck with it. With no parking brake cable, they should be fully disengaged though.
patgizz
UltimaDork
9/20/16 5:59 p.m.
i got stuff apart
the issue is they will not retract. they will extend and then the piston won't go back into the bore, it'll stay put so when the brakes are hit, the rears never come off.
i put a c clamp as a stopper 1/4" off the piston with the caliper off and it'll go to the stop and then won't go back in at all with the clamp or anything. they appear to be parts store remans, and they do have the parking brake spring so theoretically it should be holding the parking mechanism from engaging?
do these pistons need turned back into the bore? i've never worked with them before. nothing on the shelf will work without major surgery and i do not have time for that. i'm pretty much stuck at getting these brakes to work at this point.
The pistons have to be screwed back into the bore. There are tools to assist or use a strong pair of needle nose pliers inserted in the holes of the piston. Pay attention as you rotate the piston to make sure you are going in and not out.
patgizz
UltimaDork
9/20/16 6:24 p.m.
Cracked banjo at caliper. No shot of built up pressure just a normal trickle. Just got off phone with andrew nelson and he suspects calipers as the car sat outside for almost 5 years before i got it. Hopping online as soon as i pick up dinner for thefamily to see who can get me calipers quickest. If summit has them i might be able to get there before the close
patgizz
UltimaDork
9/20/16 7:36 p.m.
ordered 2 calipers, pads, and one rotor(one rotor looks new one is worn with a ridge)
i'm not in a "lets diagnose this" phase, i'm in an "i'll throw calipers, hoses, and a master cylinder at it if i have to to get to the challenge" phase.
I don't know these Ford calipers specifically, but on most you have to twist the piston back in as you compress it. Some you more or less just screw back in, others you have to press on pretty good as you turn them.
Not to long ago I had one that was doing the opposite of yours. I couldn't pump it up, when the piston was extended by pressing the pedal it would go out, but as soon as the pedal was released it retracted itself almost fully. To fix it I pumped it out almost to the point of the piston coming out, at that point it didn't retract back anymore. Then I reinserted it with a lot more twisting and less pressing and I could feel the difference as the piston became fully retracted. After that it pumped back up normally and the P-brake worked too. I think it was a Nissan, but I'm not sure.
patgizz
UltimaDork
9/20/16 8:52 p.m.
Tried with the tool, these arent spinning at all. New calipers, rotor, hoses will be here Thursday when I get home from work. New pads sitting up at orly waiting for me to get them. They needed 3 days for calipers, amazon needed 2. Amazon prime to the rescue.
I was hoping it would be a "79-81 ws6 trans am rear calipers suck but any metric gm front caliper bolts in their place" kind of deal. I have those and 4 piston toyota truck fronts and nothing was going to be the easy button like ordering 2 replacements. I gather sitting did these no good.
Should be able to get it together in an hour or so with everything sitting here, and i have a motive pressure bleeder with all the adapters so thats about as easy as it gets