GM big block question- what is this?

In reply to Curtis :

That's why the racing switch panel dealies can engage the starter separately from the ignition, and the ignition rocker is right next to the starter button.  You can crank the engine and spin it up BEFORE turning the ignition on, so there's no kickback.

(and then it sputters and dies after it empties the primary fuel bowl because you forgot to turn on the separate fuel pump switch...)

Oh, this intake comes with the engine. Again, no idea if it is good or not.

I really think you should just pass it along to me

Patrick: Some guy named Andrew Nelson said he wanted it. Then he started laughing like a maniac. 

Just kidding. In all seriousness, if I decide not to use it, I guarantee it will be posted for sale here.

Curtis said:

My 468 I built with 049 heads was at 8.7:1 with a 198/204 cam.  Mechanical was locked at 36 degrees with another 16 from manifold vacuum.  If it was fully hot and I started it when the ambient temps were above 90, it would sometimes kick back a bit....

with 36 initial degrees of timing.

Aggressive is an understatement

That's how I was taught to time a chevy, advance until it cranks hard when it's hot, if it doesn't knock under a load call it good.  My uncle could hear an improperly timed engine a mile away.    

In reply to Brett_Murphy :

The Weiand Action Plus is a very good manifold.  Comparable to an Edelbrock performer.  Low rise, dual plane.  One step up from stock.  A few more ponies, but maintains velocity and atomization for low end torque.

With the aftermarket stuff on this engine, I'm curious to see what cam is in it.

In reply to Curtis :

286/286 at .050 on a 104 lobe center, because mismatched parts are fun!

Well, given that it was just kind of sitting there for a long time, I'm thinking I'm going to have to crack it open no matter what.

I don't think my engine stand can handle it, though.

Knurled. said:

In reply to Curtis :

286/286 at .050 on a 104 lobe center, because mismatched parts are fun!

  Um... yeah.  Especially since it likely has 8:1 compression unless we find BIG domes in there.

In reply to Brett_Murphy :

It’s only ~800 lbs...

Pull a plug and use a bore scope to see what the pistons look like.  I've had good luck with being able to see the numbers stamped on them then chase that to a catalog and the head casting to ball park the compression ratio.

THE 049 head is 122 cc Combustion chamber, a flat top pistion will give around 8-to 1 . A 20 cc dome will result in high 10's to 11 to 1, 40 cc dome will make around 14 to 1.  things like how far down the piston hole the top surface is , how thick the gasket is and how large the bore/ overbore is.all reflect on the final compression.  I MAY EVEN GO FAR ENOUGH TO SAY, unless you have a race motor the heads are likely not machined because they were cheap enough to just replace. 

Ranger50 said:

In reply to Brett_Murphy :

It’s only ~800 lbs...

What is included at that weight?  Water pump? Starter, Alternator, exhaust manifolds,  intake, carb? Flywheel?  

I got a handwritten receipt for $500. The seller has to move out of his house, as noted in the thread I posted of the other stuff he is selling. 

I used Piggy to tow it home. Getting it loaded was entertaining.

It is missing some push rods, at least one lifter and one of the rods that is there is clearly bent. The price wasn't getting any lower, though. I am kind of hoping that the missing items just dropped into the oil pan and the pushrod was bent getting it into storage.

There was also some kind of actual turd sitting on the camshaft. I am guessing raccoon or opossum that is a Mopar or Ford fan. The two stick tweezer method was used to remove it. It looks like I'll have to take the whole thing down and investigate it before I try to run it. I'm still considering it a bargain, though.

Even if you have to have it tanked to clean it up and toss in bearings it’s still a very good price.  $500 is rod knocking peanut port 80’s truck motor pricing.

i’ve assembled everything to put a 454 in the chevelle, it’s all expensive.  

Fitting it into a Challenge budget may not be feasible given the state it's in. I'll just have to keep records and hope for the best. 

I'm not entirely sure I even want to spin it by hand at this point to read what's on the cam.

Next steps: clean a spot in the garage and see what's in there besides more turds. 

Brett_Murphy said:Next steps: clean a spot in the garage and see what's in there besides more turds. 

As a Ford guy, it is really really REALLY hard for me to ignore this "set up"

I wouldn't worry about what is on the cam.  From the picture, I'd be leery of using it for anything but a lamp base, unless the rust is really light.  I've had enough flat tappet cams fail in break-in that I'm leery of them anyway.

Meanwhile decent running 460's are $500 all day long.

Not a Ford loyalist...I run a 454 in my K3500, it's a strong motor...but the 460 is really a good value comparatively.

And I've run 440 Mopars.  Tempermental little things.

The 460 likes about 36 degrees of all-in time, and cranks a bit hard at that point.  

A 454 I think is lighter than a 460...and  460 "only" weighs about 700 lbs fully dressed.  

http://www.highflowdynamics.com/

I need a 454 to build a 454 GMT-400 clone, though. 

 

I have you covered, give me your address, HOW MANY PUSHRODS do you want, intake and exahust are different length's..

the lifters are the Same as small block chevy, I have one new one if you want it, they are around 7 bucks each last time I bought any .been a miniute.  not sure what I have for Gaskets but will look.

Thanks, GTXVette. I appreciate the offer.

It might be a bit before I figure out what I need, but I'll certainly remember!

NO prob.  I had bought a boat motor that the dude couldn't get right, had STD. deck pushrods in a tall deck block, .400 in. short. it took a while to figure out ,MY friend Lance brought it up in a conversation. should be fun in a c-4.

So, I got this thing off of my trailer today and muscled it into the garage. I was looking at the size of the bolts that go into the bellhousing mounts, and I'm seriously SHOCKED at how small they are.

I'm not sure I want to put this thing on an engine stand at all.

I did find something out, though: It is a two bolt main block.

The oil pan seems to have a baffle in it, along with one of the largest, fattest black widows I've ever seen. No pictures, as it's dead, dead, dead.

 

worry about the stand not the mounts, lol

I have lifted these engines by the fine thread 5/16 carb flange threads in an aluminum manifold.  You will be fine with the 3/8 bellhousing bolts.