Would any of those cause detonation only on 2 cyls and not the other 2?
Would any of those cause detonation only on 2 cyls and not the other 2?
Sonic wrote: Would any of those cause detonation only on 2 cyls and not the other 2?
Not necessarily, but if you have two cylinders that run a bit hotter, have a bit less injector flow, etc, they'd be more likely to detonate than the other two.
I'm much more familiar with turbo dodges, but as an example, a typical 8v 2.2 or 2.5 will very likely break in #4 first. It's the hottest cyilnder for a few reasons and tends to see detonation there before you see it in 1-3. Ask me how I know. 
I was curious and did some digging on the Vortex.. it seems the front panel of the car can be somewhat easily removed, which may make engine removal without a lift a bit easier.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2368291
My initial searches haven't found any threads about pulling the engine, but while there's a ton of good tech info on that site, there is a lot of crap to sift through...
Most dealers go out the front. Both VW shops I have worked for do.
That's not detonation, I've never seen even the worst detonation ever (motor eating) cause marks like that on an exhaust valve. Only the alum parts get the little melty balls/divots on them.
I'd just toss a motor in there, mechanically any of the internal waterpump motors will swap right in.
Sonic wrote: Hmmm. I see no signs that anythin has been modified under the hood. The last registered owner of the car seems to have been a middle age professional who had all of his work done at the dealer based on records, and they owned it since 2004 when it had 10k miles. The car is also super clean inside and out, and completely stock, doesn't look like some kid hooned it. If it was detonation, I wonder what caused it.
"Middle age professional" often has teen-age children responsible for family hoon quota.
Paul_VR6 wrote: That's not detonation, I've never seen even the worst detonation ever (motor eating) cause marks like that on an exhaust valve. Only the alum parts get the little melty balls/divots on them. I'd just toss a motor in there, mechanically any of the internal waterpump motors will swap right in.
I've got a few exhaust valves that look just like that from detonation. Granted, they weren't from a VW. If EGT's were on the hot side, it doesn't take much pounding in the chamber to break an exhaust valve.
OK, engine is out! Yay.
I picked up a junkyard engine today, $1100 for a 74k mile motor from a 2004 Jetta, which looks very clean. Tomorrow the re-assembly begins, new timing belt, etc. I'm really hoping that reinstallation will be much easier than removal, as I won't have to deal with removing the manifolds or fuel/vac lines, just hooking them up to the car.
More as the progress continues!
Update:
Swapped over from old engine to new engine: Clutch, flywheel, engine mounts, water pump, timing belt tensioner (as they were nearly new), hoses, some broken sensors, etc.
Put on a new timing belt.
Tomorrow it is ready to bolt into the car and start hooking things back up. It should be much easier than the head removal as I have nearly everything together already. The hardest part will be running the wiring harness. Nice to see the light at the end of the tunnell.
I broke the damn oil dipstick on the new motor too, I swear these things are made of peanut brittle or something, what a terrible design.
I used to make billet dipstick thingies and they sold like hotcakes but i lost the dimensions and ambition.
IT RUNS!
I've been putzing around getting the new motor in, working an hour here, 2 hours there, as I had time after work and with the holiday and whatnot.
Tonight I added oil and coolant. After cranking for a while with the fuel pump fuse pulled to build oil pressure, no leaks were visible. I pressurized the fuel system and all was well. It started right up, and idled well. I had to let it run for quite some time to get it up to temp and burp all of the air out of the system to get heat in the car. There are no leaks, and no check engine lights, and no other issues! I'm amazed, I was sure I was going to get a CEL, this is a MkIV after all, but there was none.
Tomorrow I button up a few things (torque the axles, heat sheild, splash panels), etc. Then I finally get to see how this thing drives. After that comes cleanup inside and out.
First time I've read thru the thread. Word of caution - if you are reusing ANYTHING from the old motor, check it for debris. My biggest concern would be the turbo (I found a LOT of shrapnel in my turbo when I dropped a valve), but also manifolds, intake piping, etc. It would suck to have something from the old motor spoil the new one.
DONE! Everything is done, back on the ground, everything seems A OK.
Dave, I thought of that too...the only bits really left from the old motor are the airbox, turbo, chage pipes, and intercooler. I looked through them all as part of the teardown to see if anything fragged, and it all looked OK. As I still don't really know the cause of the engine failure, I was looking for anything.
So now I'll take it for a test drive after I come back from being away for the long weekend, to make sure nothing else is an issue. I'll wait for a nice day to wash it, then bring it inside and buff it out, then post it up for sale, as I really have no need for the car, and could use the cash for house stuff.
Took the car for a good drive tonight and had it washed, and it drives perfectly. Boosts hard, stops, starts, steers well, no funny noises, suspension is tight, all the options work. This is going to be a great car for someone. I do need to replace the starter though, as it isn't retracting quickly enough and makes a fun sound, but the new one from RockAuto is almost here. After that, just a good buffing and it will be done.
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