I"m seriously considering tapping the pivot pin hole and threading a rounded off bolt with stop nut into it.
Anyone want to talk me down before I do it?
I"m seriously considering tapping the pivot pin hole and threading a rounded off bolt with stop nut into it.
Anyone want to talk me down before I do it?
Tapped the pivot bushing hole with a 3/8" x 16 tpi tap. Put a stainless allen head bolt with a lock nut on it. I rounded the end of the bolt. Clutch is silky smooth now.
Well, after the clutch was made awesome, I figured I might as well make the rear axle awesome too. So I did.
I should start taking pictures... no one likes a thread without pictures.
Ok. Symptoms: Brake smell, front left wheel is hot, front left inside brake pad has abnormally high wear. Front left wheel doesn't spin freely, but does spin easily.
Sticking caliper? What's the easiest grassroots way to fix this?
Junkyard hunt - e32 caliper and brackets. Oh, e34 540 rears make a nice upgrade - you can usually find some of those in junkyards with bad automatic transmissions. e34 fronts are an upgrade too - just not as big as e32s.
For a temporary fix, I'd use just about anything that'll take a little temperature. The shop I worked in last used wheel bearing grease, every reman caliper I've bought comes with sticky silicone grease... Use whatever you like. I don't think what you use matters much provided that it's thick enough to not run out past the pin boots.
Now if it's a matter of the piston(s) not retracting, that's another matter entirely, but abnormal wear on one pad sounds more like the pins are just dry.
I think I'll try to remove the pins one at a time to grease them with the caliper still on the upright.
I would too, no need to haul it all the way down. Would be a decent idea to polish up the pins a bit if they're marked up and get any garbage out of the pin bores on the caliper as well.
Well the pins are fine, but the piston is sticking? I tried clamping it a few times to get it moving, but it still sticks pretty good.
Don't worry champs, pictures coming soon.
Pulled the valve cover just now to do valve lash. Sure enough a banjo bolt was gone. and found!
Eh, considering what you paid for it, you're still making out like a bandit. It'll be a great car once you get it sorted.
Taiden wrote: I haven't spent much extra money on it so far, just lots of work on little things.
That's the Grassroots way, right? I'm loving that thread Woody's doing on that old 911 Targa he found.
Just some random photos to keep the junkies at bay.
Just ordered some parts:
A) Pikshars! I'm more jealous after seeing more of how clean it is.
B) I'm waiting with bated breath for the YouTube instructional series on stuffing a flat six where the back seat lives.
Edit: "baited"? Damn speel cheque.
I just sold my E28 today. I have some Alpinas that you NEED.
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=102874
E28s are great cars. Good score! I asked $2700 for mine (without the wheels) and had people lined up to be relieved of their money
Get it working right, enjoy the car and not losing money when you go to sell.
P.S. Unless you have documentation of frequent valve adjustments (calls for 15k interval,) adjust the rocker clearance at the cam and not the valve stem as the Bentley calls for. The valve stem gets worn eccentric and won't hold an adjustment for a while. .010 feeler gauge on the cam side will keep it happy and let the valve stems go on being happily eccentric.
If you already did it at the valve side, no biggie. You'll probably need to do it every 1000 miles for 2-3 intervals until the valve stems and eccentrics settle in.
Now you can add re-tracking the AFM, cleaning the IACV and verifying the throttle position switch to your list. All of this stuff is free and pays big dividends.
You'll need to log in to post.