HELP! Removing a hex-head bolt that stripped and is in a stupid place

So, after finding out that the intakes between the 2000 and 2004 Xterras do not interchange (throwing emissions code) I went to put the 2000 intake onto the 2004 engine, and in the process, stripped it out using just an allen key. Of course, being an Allen key fitting on a Nissan, the head of the bolt is round, so I can't use a socket to get it off. I also can't grab it with vice grips to just muscle it out, because is is buried between to intake runners.

I did a Google and saw somebody use an air hammer to notch and remove it, but I don't have pneumatic tools and I'm not sure that I could use an air hammer without hitting a runner.

I think my only option is going to be to drill it out, but I'm throwing the Hail Mary here in case somebody has a better way.

I've had decent luck hammering a torx bit in to the head of the bolt. you can file the outer corners of the splines so it goes in easier.

Can you cut a slot in the top with a dremmel or reciprocating saw? Then you could use a screwdriver....

Torx bit and a hammer is also my go-to.

Take a small cold chisel and strike the edge at an angle to unscrew the bolt. The first couple taps should be straight on to give you a little "V" to get traction in. It's like a slow motion impact wrench. If it does not work, use the cold chisel to knock the head clean off the thing.

Got a welder? Weld Allen wrench in to bolt head. The heat from welding will help loosen it up and once it is out just cut the bolt off the Allen wrench. Yes it will be a little shorter but still plenty serviceable.

I really don't know how I survived all those years not having a welder.

dean1484 wrote: Got a welder? Weld Allen wrench in to bolt head. The heat from welding will help loosen it up and once it is out just cut the bolt off the Allen wrench. Yes it will be a little shorter but still plenty serviceable.

This is my go-to for this sort of problem but since he doesn't own any air tools I just made the leap that a welder was out of the realm of potential equipment as well.

I have no idea how I lived with out a welder after I got one. Same for the lathe. It makes me wonder what else I don't know I can't live without.

You could use an extractor like these:

http://www.amazon.com/Sock-It-Out-Non-Drill-Extractor/dp/B002SQHDN6

But the other options are cheaper.

I've had decent luck with bolt extractors. Couple of taps with a hammer to get them to bite, then lots of pressure with a ratchet and extension. I assume it's in a 'fun' place to get to.

another vote for torx bit and a hammer. Heat is always your friend, though not always easy. I use a plumber's torch for heat because it is so portable. If the torx bit doesn't work, I have done the chisel trick too.

I will never try another extractor, every time I have done one it has grabbed the bolt and then subsequently shattered, leaving me with an even bigger problem than I started with. Might just be my luck though?

EDIT: similar to the torx bit, I have also had luck once or twice hammering a 12 point socket onto the round outside of the bolt, if the 12 point is slightly smaller than the bolt.

weld a nut on it, works awesome.

I've even had luck with jb weld if you don't have a welder.

Stampie

I know the bolts you're talking about. If you can't hammer a torx or something in there, I've had to just drill the head off until its more of a stud then lift the manifold off, then vise grips to remove.

In reply to rcutclif:

Probably a combination of bad luck and improper tools. We heavily use a SnapOn extractor set(spiral fluted) and have pulled everything from broken m6 bolts to broken 1" bolts. Ours use a really big tap wrench to get them out. Haven't failed to get one yet.

Yes, I've also had good luck with spiral extractors of good quality biting into the bolt very securely.

On the other hand, I've also had experiences breaking the extractor clean off once it's in the bolt, thereby leaving behind a plug of hardened stainless that I can't drill out.

I like the trick with the slightly large torx or 12-point socket. But I like the welder route even better - damn!

I recently drilled out an M6 bolt in a through hole with the head snapped off. I tried a screw extractor but it would not bite. I also tried left-hand drill bits that did bite, but they spun in the chuck of my drill. I ended up using a combination of left- and right-hand drill bits to hollow out the bolt shaft. I then used a tap to bite into what was left and break it into pieces I could pull out. Finally I pushed the last of the remnants out the bottom. Very time consuming, and I have to do it again on another beheaded bolt stuck in the exhaust manifold. Do whatever you can to increase access if you have to drill.

Thanks for the replies.

I am going to try the hammer and chisel, and I wonder why I didn't think of that myself. Then I'll move to the other suggestions.

Stampie wrote: I've even had luck with jb weld if you don't have a welder. Stampie

Now this is a great idea especially with a allen head. Definitely filing this one away. I was looking at JB weld the other day and the HD stuff has a compression strength of something like 4000 LBS. I bet that would work.

Still have not tried anything, I'll do it tomorrow. I'm curious to see what method wins.

In reply to Jamey_from_Legal:

Stainless is very brittle....Pretty sure mine are made of a cobalt mix.

If you go at it with a drill, use reverse drill bit.

http://www.zorocanada.com/i/G1643591/?gclid=COGU88H2xscCFZKBaQod4TgHDA&gclsrc=aw.ds

I wound up drilling it out a bit and hammering in a triple square bit and that got it out.

Happy no one calls extractors easy outs.