Fupdiggity
Fupdiggity New Reader
7/5/18 12:21 p.m.

I just picked up a (very) vintage air compressor, mostly complete.  Now I need to figure out how to plumb it together and thought I would reach out to the hive for help.

It's a Quincy 325, ROC (revision of change) 4, which puts it around the mid 1950's according to the interwebs.  It's driven by a Leroy Sommer (sp?) 5hp,240V motor and has a divorced Beard 1955 200psi tank.   I confirmed the compressor fires up and runs, it was apparently in regular operation up to the last few months or so.

 

 

First off, this thing is huge and weighs a ton!  Luckily I had an engine hoist to unload it from my 4Runner.  Now that it's safely in the garage, i realized that I don't know the specifics of how to plumb these up.

Here's what I gather so far:

The compressor will plumb directly into the tank inlet (top right side).  At this point there should be a pressure switch (175 psi, 5 hp rated https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LDFKLK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), a check valve, and a pressure relief valve (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NT78S9G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).  The pressure relief valve would be on the tank side of the check valve, and the check valve would need a minimum 175 psi rating.  I have also read about an unloader valve, this may or may not be included in the pressure switch and I assume would be on the compressor side of the check valve to dump some pressure when the compressor kicks off.

On the output (top left), I would need a pressure gauge and regulator to drop line pressure down (https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-air-line-filter-regulator-with-gauge-68281.html).  This includes a filter for good measure.  Down the line (25-50' or so) would go another filter to help drain water that condenses after air leaves the tank. 

What am I missing?  I'm trying to collect the major parts, then do a lowes run to adapt them all together, asemble w/ rector seal and call it day.

On the tank, I'm still trying to get the large plugs off to take a look inside.  It seems like a good idea to pressure test it as well.  For that, I would block off all holes except the inlet, hook up a guage & check valve, fill with water, and use a grease gun to raise the pressure to 1.5 x working (300psi for this tank). 

For the compressor, I'm planning to change the oil (royal purpal synth. compressor oil), anything else that should be checked/inspected?

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