Improving shifting

Sheehanigans wrote: Take the shift rods off at the transmission. There are two flat metal levers that turn the stuff internally. Each one of those two has a left, center, and right click. Both in center is neutral. If one is off-center, it should prevent the other one from leaving center. Also they should turn cleanly by hand into very definitive detents. No slop from any position. A little play (1/16-1/8") movement of the rods that come out of the transmission, axially along that rod, is ok. One of the arms is R and 1. The other is 2 and 3. Perhaps the shifter mechanism is holding the R-1 rod slightly out of its center detent while pushing on the 2-3 rod. The transmission will not allow the 2-3 to move in that case, no matter how hard you push. Not a synchro issue then. Adjust the linkage length for the R-1 rod from the shifter.

Do this first!! You can switch fluids all you want, but if the shifter is not set up properly it will not help. BTDT, many times when converting from "3 on the tree" to floor shifts.

If you want shorter shift throws you can either shorten the levers on the transmission or lengthen the lever on the shifter below the pivot point. (built several shifters myself way back when)

Axially means similar to the play with gear ladh, right? Like grab the arms that are bolted to the shift forkd, and wiggle back and forth. Little play from neutral detent until it feels like the fork is moving. Little play from 1st detent, felt at the lever. Its that way with both levers in all detents.

In reply to Hal:

Can you give some more pointers on set up properly? This is one of the old three on the tree to floor shift conversions. With no instructions that ive been able to find. So more tips and experience would be greatly appreciated.

Just follow the directions that Sheehanigans wrote. Take the rods from the shifter loose and check the arms on the trans to make sure the trans is in neutral. Then make sure the shifter is in the neutral position and adjust the rods from the shifter to the correct length to go back in the transmission arms without moving any of the arms.

Those old shifters usually have some nylon washers/bushings that may need replacing so check them first. Also there will be a preload spring that may be worn or broken.

Where was the preload spring be?

Dusterbd13 wrote: Where was the preload spring be?

Internal in the shifter. Purpose is to keep the 2-3 lever engaged and make you work against it for 1-R.

Hmm.....

Ill have to check ours. Seems like it naturally falls to first.

So, after 3 hours of fiddling and tweaking, we have tight, nice shifts (comparatively speaking) the lobg and short is the shifter is slap wore out. But using different holes, changing lever positions, shimming and adjustments got us pretty happy. Is still bad, but a hell of a lot less bad.

Thanks guys.