So, what is the deal on these funky lug nuts? Do they "lock" with the center Allen, like a header bolt? Or are the strictly cosmetic? Never seen or heard of 'em.
So, what is the deal on these funky lug nuts? Do they "lock" with the center Allen, like a header bolt? Or are the strictly cosmetic? Never seen or heard of 'em.
They (strut tops) look standard to me, but the RH side looks very broken (as in please don't drive it broken). The strut tower reinforcement plates are that colour when clean.
Rear seems to have adjustable upper spring seats, handy.
On the front lower control arm, that big rear bush likes to fail, but it's not a biggy.
Yep, Forscan works (well it did for me anyway, I doubt Peruvian market would have anything different in that respect).
A clean(ish) stock reinforcement plate
In reply to paul_s0 :
I haven changed out a McPherson strut in prolly 30 years! Don't remember what a proper top mount looks like!
wasn't sure if that was just adjusted to the extreme, or damaged! Thanks for confirmation.
Definitely not driving, till several things are sorted. That is now one of them!
No worries- strut tops, I recommend not using alternative brands, OEM or something fancy. I sourced SKF branded mounts from Amazon (SKF is OEM for the bearing), when they came in, they were OEM FoMoCo, with that bit scrubbed off.
Kyb and Moog don't have the best reputation for Mazda 3 top mounts, some fail in very short order.
Might be teaching you to suck eggs, but be wary of the damper shaft, if it's been rattlng around in the top mount like that for a while, it could well be damaged.
If I wait for shipping, I can get the loaded struts for the same price as the cheapest mount, local!
Putting another $250 onto a CC is not the smartest plan, but since $60 of it, minimum, is a prime safety reason, The Financial Manager gets it!
She can follow the logic of: if one side did that after unknown lowering, fix both sides, stock, and put the back stock also!
would have waited, other than the one side damaged.
I did look closer... it's kinda scary!
And no worries on over advising! I'm very intelligent, but a bit flakey! Super experienced pullin' wrenches - but it's very random!
Address the simple stuff, and the harder becomes easy!
I did play with the switches, radio, windows seat controls, etc, while sitting in the yard. Everything is working as should, except the few things advertised.
Fix the brake leak, and now the strut mount, and she should be good to go!
The guy was very nice; pretty cool guy, actually. Enjoyed getting to know him, while we did a bit, and loaded it up. Totally upfront about the car, what he thought it needs, and background. Both the cars, and his. Straight up about struggling of and on for years with pills, and why he's broke, but trying to do better.
No suprise, to find these while vacuuming under the seats!
Good thing I was already planing to take all the seats out, and now will also pull the carpet out, give it a wash/dry, and re install!
Dont need a dog scratching the paint up, over a routine traffic stop!
Since its 10:30 here, I did just take her 2 miles up the road. Can hear the one strut moving, where the mount is damaged. Few noises from back suspension... I'm sure it will get sway bar soft parts before too long, maybe control arm bushings, as well. But for now, just stock springs all 'round, and new struts (loaded) on the front
The gentleman that predicted 2bills, from rock auto was dead on!
Because of various comments 'bout shifting, in another thread , I did check... it up shifts and down shifts smooth as glass without the clutch, with proper technique!
Sounds good. What sorts of noises at the back? 2 common rear failures are, clunks: rear swaybar end links, creaks groans and randomness: trailing arm bush (big fella at the front of the rear trailing arms). Best way of checking that is up in the air and shove a camera up to take a pic. If it needs doing, OE Mazda seem a lot better than aftermarket..
Super quick jaunt; didn't focus on it. Mostly it just sounds and feels like a spring buggy. Too low, over sprung, and under damped!
It's pretty much what I'd expect for a car that someone tossed the cheapest lowering springs they could find, in a car that didn't need lowering!!!!
I ordered the rear springs, rear bar end links, and front "loaded" struts last night.
Got it low enough that 600 in parts (two orders) to bring it up to snuff, ain't bad.
Just hate putting that much on a CC that won't get paid in full this month!
No chance to work on it today, but started making room to get off gravel to get under it.
Dumb question - from under the hood, you can see a TINY fluid reservoir.
There is A MC right under it, and another WAY underneath.
The PO pointed into a opening at back of engine, under the visible MC, to point out where he can see the leak.
I Still haven't seen anything down there! I'm assuming, from his description, it's a line right at that lower MC.
is the top one for the clutch, or the brakes?
Clutch actually works fine, but brakes are so spongy, it's scary. Two pumps and there is a pedal, and stops good, but count to 2, and it's on the floor!
if the top is the brake, then the leak is a separate problem!
Top one under the reservoir is the brake MC (blue circle), lower one hidden away under/behind battery is the clutch (around where the green circle is)
Sounds like you need to get the battery and tray out to have a good looksee back there
Edit: if it pumps up, could it just be air the system?
After seeing the MC visible was brake, not the one he was pointing at, I pulled the battery and box.
The there is a quick-dic line from reservoir to clutch MC, as well as the the line that goes to clutch slave. Oddly, that's a quick-dic also! The wire and lines to the ABS box are in the way to see which one has the leak! Working on trying to move that enough, without disconnecting any of that. Took a break to say hello.
even after we bled the brakes, it the pedal would still pump up, but drift down, quickly.
MAY be air trapped in ABS, or may be MC; but the leak is not brakes!
Good news, except, FINDING the actual leak 
By the time the new MC comes in, I'll prolly have the ABS bled correctly; as well as all lines; if still "soft" I'll bench bleed the MC, and slap it on!
aparently, dealer only part. Around 60 bucks!!!
a piece of 5/16 hose an couple of hose clamps...
How long would fuel line last as a reservoir line, with Dot 4? Is modern off the shelf brake fluid aggressive?
Not finding a part name online, other than dealer, I slipped out to the closest auto parts (ten miles) . With my v10, we try to combine trips!
Young man there is familiar with GRM, and into "The Answer"... gave me 10" of 5/16 transmission cooler line and 2hose clams (better than worm gear style) to hold me till I can get one ordered in ($45 from Tasco Ford) and time to put on later!
My wife will be able to help me bleed everything properly tomorrow, and we'll see if the MC lives!
Hopefully, late in the week, I'll find out how a return at rock auto, goes, for an mc I don't need!
But, I'm thinkin' I will. It was only $66, so no worries
Besides, it's on a CC. The 'merican way, tells us that not like really spending it, anyway, right?
Front loaded struts came in today, but I'm still working on gravel, so they won't go on today!
Then I gotta find a shop that will align it correctly. Only shops I know of are "toe and go- time is money" shops.
Could probably handle this, but I HATE supporting hacks!
Yilkes!
leak is actually from the lower side of the ABS module!
This is gonna suck.
Uff, sorry to hear that! Super sure that it's there ? I've not heard of many ABS module failures.
Regards the struts, you can change them without disconnecting TRE or lower balljoints. I've always done grassroots alignments, never had a problem yet... Front end only has toe to align (plus a fraction of a degree in the strut tops/tower holes, but casi nada).
For the struts, lots of folks get the biggest hammer possible and beat the life out of the housing. I found the best way was leaving the strut top bolts tight, undo the pinch bolt in the hub carrier, soak it in lubricant of choice, then use a carefully placed scissor jack between the hub carrier and lower spring seat to wind it out. If proving difficult, pickle fork ball joint splitter in the opening of the housing to ease it a fraction. Once loose, undo those strut top bolts and slide that fella out (supporting hub afterward).
03Panther said:Yilkes!
leak is actually from the lower side of the ABS module!This is gonna suck.
I'd be looking closely at the lines into and out of the abs unit. I wouldn't expect the unit itself leaking.
In reply to wvumtnbkr :
My thoughts exactly! Same advise I would give anyone, as well.
Sadly:
to see if the clutch Mc was the leak, or the line from reservoir, or maybe (although symptoms suggested not) the pressure line out - I moved ALOT of stuff, to clean all the clean Dot4 up in that area.
the bracket (3) wraps around the clutch MC. The bolts attach to the ABS from under the bracket. Cannot acces with abs, and should NOT attempt to move the bracket and ABS, with all six lines attached. Several hours later, I got it moved enough to get the bracket bolts out., and the bracket out of the way. Was then able to move the ABS unit farther, clean everything up, put my just rigged reservoir line on. Put a clean shop towel under the clutch master cyl, to verify not leaking, and a separate one under where the ABS is now hanging from its lines, where battery would be
See where (1) and (2) are separated in the diagram? One is the pump, two is the electronic module. It is leaking from between them, when pressure is applied to brake pedal 
Never touched one in my life. In fact, I couldn't figure out how to remove the secured wire plug!
I do see the screws that hold those two together. If I had more time, I'd remove all 6 brake lines, and attempt a repair on the bench!
Sadly, I don't have that time (would miss out on about 1/4 of my yearly income!)
Did at least get it moved into the gravel carport, so I can work on it in the rain, tomorrow, but never did get a space on a concrete spot cleared!!!
In reply to paul_s0 :
Regards the struts, you can change them without disconnecting TRE or lower balljoints
Definitely get the just of that... the few I did back 30 year ago, went about like that, although I wouldn't have thought of the scissor jack for it (blessed to have had access to a porta-power set up back then!
I'm obviously being dense (as I do) but define TRE?
The bracket (you can almost see the clutchMC) has only one bolt (lower pass side) and slips over 2 pins to the driver side. All those wires are in a "raceway" instead of a loom, and full of Dot4 in this picture.
this (well almost) allowed me to get to the two bolts, from under the ABS, to take the bracket off, so I could find the leak. Very disappointing to find, but it is what it is.
NO way they would ever go back, without removing lines, so I am about to learn how to bleed a new ABS pump, (only available as pump and module) and introduce the new module. Will be my first! So I'm counting on you experts!
I'm assuming ForScan can do it... I just know nothing but checking stored codes!
Kinda steep learning curve!!!
Very unclear picture of the bottom, from a flea bay ad:
I added the arrow to show the bottom. That's about where it is leaking from. I can not see the bottom well enough, without removing all lines, and none of the lines are leaking.
Did find someone with identical leak:
You'll need to log in to post.
