Lock nuts on ties rods siezed - solutions?

Went to make a minor toe adjustment on my Saab 900. The lock nuts were frozen on both sides, as were the tie rods in the ends. I got the tie rods loose with a crows foot on an impact, but the lock nuts are not moving. Tried grabbing the tie rods with vice grips but they just spun. Obviously, this makes it impossible to adjust the toe. I slammed it back together for the moment, as I didn't have time or inclination to go further, but I'm imagining I'll have to heat the nuts up to break them loose. Is it safe to do this with everything in place, or is it advisable to take it apart first? Is there a better approach I haven't thought of?

If you got the tie rod ends loose, take them all the way off.  Deep socket and impact wrench with vice grips holding the inner should do the job, and then you can clean and lube everything.  Oxy acetylene torch on the nut will loosen it if need be.

Before you go to the hot wrench try soaking them at least over night in PB Blaster. Then see if they will come of with regular tools.

I soaked for several days with PB - no dice. The threads are fairly rusty.

Is a replacement inner tie rod easy to source?  You know... just incase

A quick search turns up no sources for the tie rods themselves, only rebuilt racks. I have no desire to change the rack, which looks to be a miserable job.

From my bygone days as a mechanic in the rust belt, the heat wrench was step one on any pretty much any alignment . 

Not these?  https://www.amazon.com/Moog-EV293-Tie-Rod-End/dp/B000C55XWS

Is one side reverse-thread? If not I think a nut splitter may be the safest option. 

In reply to Tk8398 :

Never thought to check Amazon, but if I can confirm that those are correct then that's the answer. Thanks!

Heat.

The torches have always been stored near the alignment rack, at every place I've worked, because of this.  After 3-4 years, everything needs a little heat to move.

If the torch is not convenient, try distorting them a little with a hammer and dolly on flats 180 away from each other. Wind the rod out of the end a couple of turns before you try to reduce the interference factor. This will expand the huts a little. OK to repeat at all 3 positions. 

If a full on torch isnt available, get some Map gas.  Make sure to get the heat on the nut, as that what youd want to expand.

I have used simple wax to free up rusty nuts.  Heat the part up and apply the end of an old candle and them apply some more heat. The wax will seep in and usually works for me, or at least as good as PB Blaster or similar.

anyone around you have  Induction bolt heater ?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MHCLQR9/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ABS62HWFNGMIS&th=1

Some talk from our archives on how to use a torch on rusty, frozen bolts. 

Just do the hammer thing. Have to back it up with another hammer or the force you'll need to put in may bend the inner tie rod . But as said just take a hammer and something else metal and equally heavy (another hammer is 'fine' depending on who you ask) and hold it against the backside while the you smack the front with the hammer. 

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll have at it later this week and report back.

Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) said:

Is one side reverse-thread? If not I think a nut splitter may be the safest option. 

+1 on a nut splitter if you don't need to reuse the nut. If you don't have one, they are small and handy at the JY, too.

You just need to apply the correct level of persuasion/shock to separate the bits.

Hold a really big hammer on one side of the nut and smack the other side of the nut with a hammer. PB Blaster or Kroil for the assist. You can do the same with the sleeve threads, you could even go as far as to drill a small hole in the sleeve so you can add some penetrant to the inside.

For the sleeve I usually roll it on an anvil and rain a barrage of hammer blows to the outside of the sleeve while rolling. 

Don't use a hammer so large you flatten the sleeve, and don't hit it so hard you leave dents. The object is to loosen Mr Rusts grip not destroy the part.

Nut splitter:

Nut splitters don't help turn the inner tie rod in the outer, though.

Pete. (l33t FS) said:

Nut splitters don't help turn the inner tie rod in the outer, though.

True, but it sounds like the outer is loose in this situation.

I would try Acetone/ATF mixed in equal parts and let soak and if that fails a Nut Splitter.

Woody (Forum Supportum) said:

Nut splitter:

That is a style I’ve never seen before. I have the other style, but prefer a grinder, most of the time! Not always room though.