So apparently I gambled and lost big time with the GPIRacing radiator, brand new out of the box it had 2 leaks...I probably couldn't expect any warranty support in the first place and almost certainly can't after having it for so many months, and with the potential for shipping costs, the cheapest solution is probably to take it to a local radiator repair shop to get it patched up.
Ran by the shop to try and grab the radiator so I might be able to get it worked on ASAP, but it wasn't in a position to be easily yanked out and they were closing up for the weekend so I'll have to head back on Monday. The eBay return period has already passed and the item isn't listed anymore, I could try emailing the manufacturer and see what they offer, but again with shipping costs and times, repair might not only be the fastest but also the cheapest option.
I'd email them, they may send you a return label for free shipping back, or just tell you to keep it and send you another one.
In reply to docwyte :
Yep emailed them already just to see if they'll offer any kind of warranty, although due to the timezone difference I probably won't hear back before Monday evening. Unless they really do have a support person working out of the empty-looking warehouse next to a rural New Jersey gas station they claim as an address.
So it turns out that the leak was caused by how the mounting points were attached to the end tanks. It appears that AFTER being welded on, they were drilled and tapped, and there was some punch-through in the drilling step...including complete punch-through on one of these mounts, giving a clear view of the inside of the end tank. Great work, geniuses.
I went and tried 2 different radiator shops yesterday (and found 2 more ex-radiator shops) and neither were capable of patching this by welding, most had ideas that involved plugging the hole and possibly not using those mounting points. Running out of ideas, I took it to a shop that I know does a lot of work on race cars. Turns out they actually do aluminum welding and could've fixed it, but they were so busy they redirected me to a nearby fab shop. This place figured it would be no big deal to chop the mounts off, patch the holes and weld the mounts back on, so I should get the radiator back in a couple days.
I got an email from GPIRacing late last night, it looks like they're going to try to direct me to eBay's (now expired) warranty coverage since I bought through eBay and not them directly. I let them know how I bought it and the details of the leak, I'll see what they say, but honestly there probably isn't time for a warranty fix anyway.
Use sealant on the bolts, done. That's no different than any number of cylinder heads where manifold or accessory mounting holes go through to coolant.
You have to drill/tap after welding because welding will warp them so much that the threads wouldn't matter.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
I figured that avoiding warpage was the only good reason to do it that way, but you'd think they might use some kind of physical stop to limit drilling depth...or at least send one back for repairs if it gets drilled all the way through.
The first radiator shop did recommend trying sealant on the bolts, and I considered it, but I'd prefer not to have a radiator that opens a drain if I unbolt a fan shroud etc...it's bad enough when that happens with exhaust or intake bolts on an engine. Plus it would be adding potential points of failure when the reason for switching to an all-aluminum radiator was to remove some.
That's frustrating and E36 M3ty quality control. I bet they just tapped them or even tried to clean up the threads after they were welded on and that was when the damage was done. The fab shop won't have any issue capping those holes and rewelding those mounts on.
If they are taking too long and you can get the rad down to me I can do the same, it won't be as pretty as a pro but it will be functional.
Is there enough room to use a threaded stud?
In reply to j_tso :
Don't think so, there's very little thread, the 2nd radiator shop had the same idea but it would mean making those mounting points useless.
My experience with all-aluminum radiators is that until you spend Griffin money they tend to be a bit shoddy and I'd only use one if no other options were available (rx7). They work, but aren't anything to aspire to. I've never seen one seal properly at the radiator cap for example.
OTOH I also don't see plastic tank radiators crumbling until they are like 30 years old, so I don't have that bias. (The upside to living here, plastic lasts a lot longer) And in a collision the radiator will be toast no matter what it's made of, as they are not meant to be structural.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:My experience with all-aluminum radiators is that until you spend Griffin money they tend to be a bit shoddy and I'd only use one if no other options were available (rx7). They work, but aren't anything to aspire to. I've never seen one seal properly at the radiator cap for example.
OTOH I also don't see plastic tank radiators crumbling until they are like 30 years old, so I don't have that bias. (The upside to living here, plastic lasts a lot longer) And in a collision the radiator will be toast no matter what it's made of, as they are not meant to be structural.
It seems to depend a lot on the vehicle. SWMBO's "new" 05 Camry just had the factory radiator replaced for the beginning of a very slight weep with over 300k miles on it. But I've seen plenty of others not make it much over 10 years and far fewer miles.
The Jeep ones are a great example of that. I went aluminum in the Jeep at one point in search of reliability. The first one I tried didn't cool as well as a cheap plastic tank unit and had rad cap sealing issues. So I bought a Griffin. Lasted just past the warranty before popping a leak. And it cooled about the same as a stock type radiator, none of the improvement they claimed. Ended up putting in a cheap "winner racing" brand radiator off eBay after that. It's a thicker core than the Griffin or stock units and cools noticeably better (stays much closer to t-stat temp in situations where it was historically cooling challenged). It's been in there for 6 years (but not a lot of miles) and so far has held up better than anything else I've had in it since the original rad was replaced.
The fab shop's a bit behind schedule but has got around to the radiator today, I just dropped off the fan assembly to use as a template. The shop was actually able to pressure-test the radiator and found that all the front mounting points were leaking as well, so at least the manufacturer was consistent. Speaking of which, I haven't heard back from them since I sent them the same photos from this thread a few days ago, so I also took this video at the shop and sent it to them (or at least I tried, they'll probably have to set up a VPN to access YouTube):
Repairs to the radiator were finished this morning so that's ready to install now. Repair cost wasn't bad for the amount of work involved, but with that and gas to shuttle parts around added onto the initial purchase price it's now into the same ballpark of cost as something like a CSF 7050. Also got the replacement clockspring in the mail so I'll drop that off next time I'm going near the shop.
Almost got it out of the shop today but the aftermarket crank pulley is being a pain to set up again. Engine starts up fine but then the belt threatens to jump off the front of the crank pulley, seems it needs to be spaced outwards more.
That is good news.
It has been a long and financially painful road but it seems you are almost done.
Crank issue got sorted out but it seems that the AC compressor wasn't as undamaged as it looked, there's a scraping sound confirmed to be coming from it:
The mechanic thinks it might wear itself away without too much effect on the compressor's lifespan, and a compressor clutch/pulley kit could fix it without degassing the system, so it's probably best to run it and see what happens. I don't use the AC much (mostly when stuck in traffic on the way back from events, when I'm already full of sweat anyway) so I don't mind the AC system breaking down as long as it doesn't take anything else with it.
Edit: Should be ready to pick up on Monday.
If it's a regular clutch type, it's easy to swap the plate for another one, or add a shim. Adding a shim -may- cause engagement issues when hot, though.
Brought the car home earlier today (well, really yesterday now), still drives like it did before as far as I can tell, it's been a busy day so I only had time to snap this slightly out-of-focus pic on the way:
Glad you got it back, I know it was a long journey.
How did you resolve the AC issue?
In reply to GameboyRMH :
Good news on the car coming home. Life goes on. Good luck!
Yay!
In reply to sevenracer :
The AC issue isn't resolved, the compressor pulley still makes noise. I might fix it with an "AC clutch kit" next year.
Was fixing up some little things on the car today and noticed that my work sealing up the passenger-side headlight must've been imperfect, this is on the inside:
A trick I've done to band-aid this problem with the simpler, sanely-priced headlights of the past was to drill drainage and/or ventilation holes in places that water won't get in through, I guess I'll try that with this light and see if it helps.
In reply to GameboyRMH :
Eh, I've seen a lot of 86's with headlights like that. So you've made it at least as good as the factory.
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